Icom command mic failed - now have to replace everything?

[B25Matt]

I have one I'm willing to part with. What part of the world are you? I'm in Ontario, Canada.

[Senojev]

Have you contacted Icon service. They fixed my handheld for. Very reasonable price and quickly.

[Scrimshaw4]

Had a similar problem with a 1998 Horizon RAM mic. Base was good but transmit button failed on the RAM and new replacements was not available. Two places you can look for a used, working, replacement are on-line at E-bay and Bacons in Annapolis. It took a while but I finally found one at Bacon's. (Looked like a dealer had cleaned out his stock from prior upgrades) Saved me from having to replace the entire radio system.

[R Hutcheson]

Try https://seawiremarine.com/

They just repaired my Command Mic III, as well as supplied replacements for the round track controller on my RayMarine E120 MFD's.

Good Luck.

[WE9V]

Yes, frustrating trying to replace 17 year old gear, but we had the same issue with our ~3 year old B&G VHF + Wireless mic. Something happened with the VHF's bluetooth such that it wouldn't connect to the wireless handset. That model handset was replaced with a newer model which isn't compatible with the 3 year old VHF. So we had to get a new handset and new VHF, for something just a few years old!

[skenn_ie]

Not having read the responses: Is it the PTT switch or the mic ? Either can be replaced within the mic case.

[patmvcr]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

My experience with command mikes is that the connector between mike cable and the extension cable from the radio is flaky. Your symptoms reflect such a problem, so be sure that all the pins and their sockets are clean and tight. I strongly suspect that your issues lie there.

Jim

IO second this solution as I have the same problem but mine is even older! The connector pis seem to get slightly corroded so that the mic doesn't work from the helm but works fine when directly connected to the radio. I was trying to find a new extention cable to replace mine, but it appears they aren't sold separately.

[MEC]

Jim Cate has given you excellent advise, IMO. The majority of command mic failures are initiated by corrosion in the copper plated pins and sockets between the extension cable to mic pigtail connectors.


Take a file or wet and dry sandpaper and gently burnish the pins and sockets. Clean out the debris. Apply a light coating of dielectric grease or silicone oil to the pins/sockets to prevent corrosion.


If you want to solve the problem permanently, replace the original connectors with a military style bayonet connector with gold plated pins/sockets. See ITT Cannon.

[skenn_ie]

Contact cleaner/lubricant One of the Electrolube products, I think.

[Lake-Effect]

Originally Posted by MEC

Take a file or wet and dry sandpaper and gently burnish the pins and sockets.

Nooooo!

Using anything seriously abrasive on most connectors will remove plating, and that just hastens corrosion and connection problems. I have used crocus cloth or a burnishing tool very carefully but even these wear away the plating. I wouldn't use anything more aggressive except as an emergency fix.

Usually a decent contact spray or treatment is sufficient to clean them.

Most connectors have a sort of wiping action as they mate, and if that isn't enough to restore contact, then they're due for replacement.

[sailorick424]

I'm having similar issues with my Commmand Mic III. After cleaning pins and sockets with spray cleaner/abrasives and coating with dielectric it will work but fails after storage for a few days (corrosion comes back). I can repeat cleaning and it works again.. Per recommendation from MEC, I am ready to replace the original connectors with a military style bayonet connector with gold plated pins/sockets. Has anyone had experience doing this? How did you open up the two ends and preserve the integrity of the connections to know which wire goes to pin? Are the tiny wires inside color coded? Any other advice?

[Jammer]

Originally Posted by sailorick424

I'm having similar issues with my Commmand Mic III. After cleaning pins and sockets with spray cleaner/abrasives and coating with dielectric it will work but fails after storage for a few days (corrosion comes back). I can repeat cleaning and it works again.. Per recommendation from MEC, I am ready to replace the original connectors with a military style bayonet connector with gold plated pins/sockets. Has anyone had experience doing this? How did you open up the two ends and preserve the integrity of the connections to know which wire goes to pin? Are the tiny wires inside color coded? Any other advice?

I've done it lots of times but not with command mics in particular.


It is hard to do and requires good electronics skills.


The wires will be color coded. In essence what you will do is cut off the existing connectors and use a continuity tester to see whether the color code is the same on the mic side as the radio side (probably isn't). If the same, great, if not, you write down the mapping. Then you solder or crimp, as the case may be, the new connector on each end. It's really easy to get wires mixed up.


You have to decide how much time and effort you want to invest in older electronics. Realistically you might get a few more years out of it.

[Gudgeon]

Sailorick424 as noted by Jammer is is fairly straight forward task may be a bit tediius and require some soldering skills. That said I have not been able to find the connectors, ICOM has been no help they state the LRU in the mick and cable and can't (won't) provide a part number.
The connectors will have a keyway so you can build a chart of the wire color to pin for the male side and female then do you wiring. I believe it is an 8 pin connector and I am not sure if all pins are used. I am not on the boat so I can look at the connector.
I am at the point if I can find a connector soon I will just splice the wire together, unfortunatly this means the mick will have to live at the helm.

[Bycrick]

Don’t just assume that you can solder the wires to the connector pins. Often the microphones, and sometimes the extension cables, are made with "ultra-flexible" or Litz wire. It can be difficult, if not impossible, to solder. Crimping the very small wires requires a steady eye, a steady hand, the right tools and some practice.

[Jammer]

Originally Posted by Gudgeon

I will just splice the wire together, unfortunatly this means the mick will have to live at the helm.

Probably makes sense given the age of the electronics. You can use a rubber grommet where the cable penetrates the fiberglass (or whatever) and get a small nylon dry bag (like canoeists and kayakers use) for the mic. Cut/melt a hole in it for the mic hanger and you'll be all set.