B&G Hydra 2000 autopilot Fault 103 again! Help please.

[Peter200]

B&G Hydra 2000 autopilot, I'm "Lovin it", not.
I keep getting Fault 103. Have checked the connections as much as I am able.

The rudder indicator works fine, set port, midships and starboard settings. Enter Test and it worked, all good. go to sea and half an hour later Fault 103. Have changed the relay to the hydraulic ram as it was slightly rusty. Plenty of Hydraulic fluid in the ram, System worked again then Sunday after 20 mins Fault 103. Fuse fine etc Try again to set up Port, Midships etc press test enter Nothing Fault 103. Arghhh.

Would appreciate any help unfortunately no B&G specialist in Curacao, plenty of guys with a screwdriver walking around claiming to be electronic specialists, you know how it goes?

[Exile]

Try Myles Marine Electronics in Deland, FL. Myles is good at long-distance troubleshooting, and has a lot of knowledge & parts for the older B&G's like yours. A quick Google search will bring up his website & contact info.

(No affiliation).

[colemj]

I believe fault 103 is a rudder drive error, where the computer attempted to move the rudder, but received no feedback that it moved. There are a few possibilities besides wire connectors (I am assuming the B&G linear drive with rudder feedback unit attached):

1. The rudder reference unit is bad or not calibrated. Have you recently removed or played with this? If so, it may have been put back turned a bit to be out of calibration. I can post calibration instructions if this is so.

2. The drive lock solenoid is going bad. We had ours fail and produce this error. It tends to fail intermittently - increasing in frequency - until it goes altogether. The solenoid is that round blue or square black thing on the side of the RAM with a couple of smaller wires coming out of it.

3. The motor brushes are going bad. We also had these go and they tend to produce the drive error when the drive is pushed to provide a lot of thrust.

4. The RAM has air in it and needs bleeding. Have you seen any hydraulic fluid leaking from the front arm seal? When you manually pull/push the arm in and out, do you feel bubbles or sudden free movement?

The most important test you can do right now is to determine whether the RAM is locked when the error message occurs. If you can easily turn the wheel when the error occurs, then it is most likely the solenoid.

If the RAM is locked solid when the error occurs, it is most likely the rudder feedback unit.

If the wheel can be turned with quite a bit of backforce (don't honk on it and break stuff), then it is most likely brushes or air in the hydraulics.

Mark

[Peter200]

Oh Mark,

Would you mind sending me those calibration instructions?

Thanks again and Regards...Peter

peter.walkley@yahoo.co.uk

[colemj]

One subtlety that I glossed over is that you need to do the wheel lock tests before the error failure occurs - or just as it is occurring. After the error occurs, the AP releases control back to standby.

So you need to test for wheel lock before the error - the AP attempts to control the rudder for a few seconds before failing, and this is the time to test.

Mark

[Exile]

Originally Posted by colemj

I believe fault 103 is a rudder drive error, where the computer attempted to move the rudder, but received no feedback that it moved. There are a few possibilities besides wire connectors (I am assuming the B&G linear drive with rudder feedback unit attached):

1. The rudder reference unit is bad or not calibrated. Have you recently removed or played with this? If so, it may have been put back turned a bit to be out of calibration. I can post calibration instructions if this is so.

2. The drive lock solenoid is going bad. We had ours fail and produce this error. It tends to fail intermittently - increasing in frequency - until it goes altogether. The solenoid is that round blue or square black thing on the side of the RAM with a couple of smaller wires coming out of it.

3. The motor brushes are going bad. We also had these go and they tend to produce the drive error when the drive is pushed to provide a lot of thrust.

4. The RAM has air in it and needs bleeding. Have you seen any hydraulic fluid leaking from the front arm seal? When you manually pull/push the arm in and out, do you feel bubbles or sudden free movement?

The most important test you can do right now is to determine whether the RAM is locked when the error message occurs. If you can easily turn the wheel when the error occurs, then it is most likely the solenoid.

If the RAM is locked solid when the error occurs, it is most likely the rudder feedback unit.

If the wheel can be turned with quite a bit of backforce (don't honk on it and break stuff), then it is most likely brushes or air in the hydraulics.

Mark

Thanks for posting this troubleshooting checklist, Mark. I have it saved.

I just checked my Hydra AP manual and confirmed that Fault 103 is in fact the rudder drive. The manual describes the fault as "the Pilot attempted to move the rudder but did not sense any change in rudder position, or, when the pilot attempted to move the rudder, it moved in the wrong direction." There are a couple of pages of diagnostics that follow.

Peter -- I have a pdf copy of the user manual I can e-mail to you if you'd like, or you probably download yourself off the B&G website. The manual includes a step-by-step calibration/commissioning guide.

[Peter200]

Mark,
I took off the solenoid on my Robertson HLD2000L Drive unit and cleaned the shaft and plug terminals along with the small bits of crud of the solenoid itself.

Switched the system back on and did the port, midships and starboard end stop calibration, tested out good, working correctly. Put the AP on and steer via compass Hdg 10 deg port - 20 deg Stb and she behaves herself.

I am in Panama City tomorrow through to Saturday morning and have located two dealers. I have sent emails requesting a new solenoid, motor brushes, even a complete motor if they have it in stock? Hopefully, hopefully this will restore any sanity I had in the first place. Shall let you know.
All the very best....Peter

[colemj]

Originally Posted by Peter200

Mark,
I took off the solenoid on my Robertson HLD2000L Drive unit

Uh oh - I was assuming you had the B&G hydraulic linear drive. I don't have any experience with the Robertson drive.

I guess they all operate similarly, so hopefully my advice translates over.

Mark

[Peter200]

Everything is B&G apart from the drive unit, l guess the previous owner changed it out? One of the suppliers in Panama City has replied and has the complete electric motor in stock, l've asked for a price and if it comes complete with the solenoid. Fingers crossed Cheers


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