Ranger 26-- Hit Rock-- Thinking of buying

[clockwork orange]

The Ranger 26 has a different keel bolt arrangement than most boats we are used to. It has a cast iron keel with a rectangular top mounting flange that fits in a recess in the hull bottom and the keel bolts are out at the edges and are a lot further apart so there is a lot bigger surface area that would be a lot more resistant to driving up into the bottom of the hull than most keels. Not to say there would be no damage, just probably less. Good sailing little boat, particularly on a reach.

[Captain Caliamari]

IMHO- the only ' terrible' thing associated with keel strikes is the propagation of the misleading fallacy that they are somehow, merely cosmetic repairs to be undertaken to save a compromised hull- with all and everyone of its' inherent dangers if this happens.

We are all on the forum to offer our best and safest advices to those who seek them- whatever the problem.

Having just written a cheque for $30K this morning; for a keel strike that appeared merely cosmetic; and had the benefit and sheer good luck to find a super competent yard that properly diagnosed the problem, carried out the 6 week repair and took over from a clown ' aircraft' glasser who had not one iota of knowledge of how to assess,repair or even attend a yard to assess the required works- I think we owe it to each other to pass on the best and safest advice.

Personally, I trust my repair; it's all good being blasé about these things; until such time as you find yourself in a tidal race of 10 knots, on a reef, having struck a pinnacle rock, and with two coastguard ribs, and a private rib in attendance...then you won't be so well disposed to those who advised you to have a quick look and sort out a bit of resin and Bondo repairs.

[Captain Caliamari]

Gutting it Out - Great Island Boat Yard

[Youngblood]

Well everyone likes an update so here ya go...

Looked at the boat today. My father came and took a look as he use to race this exact boat years ago. First off the boat looked better than expected. It was sitting for a year but is extremely dry with not much smell down below. No cushions or anything to get wet... the bulkheads were all bone dry/ no rot. The anchor sleeve was loose and will need remounting... it had nav lights on the bow which have been removed and some water seeps in, needs to be resealed with some starboard over it.

The decks were solid except one hand rail post in line with the forward part of the cockpit. Both sides are wet from being beside a scupper, the area is no more than 4 inches in diameter and could be reinforced. The winches are all good, running rigging is good.

One problem area is that a previous owner cut out a 12" hole in front of the cockpit for a chart plotter which is now gone. Aka there is a decent hole that's been sealed with tape. Thinking again that a piece of starboard would solve this issue as well. I would probably mount a smaller chart plotter anyway...

The rudder was said to have taken the brunt of the damage. The guy had a diver remove it. The carved/cut out the rudder shaft until the got a 4 or 5" of straight shaft and then had a welder put a sleeve in and fit a new shaft around it. The rudder was then filled/fibreglassed and faired back to the original self.

The keel still has a ding in it, I haven't been able to inspect or pull the boat. Lack of facilities locally means I can't pull the boat for another 2 weeks... oh the bolts looked great, bit of rust but nothing bad and no leaks.

It comes with 3 decent spinnakers, 3 headsails (all old, one decent geneo on the furler, and one top of the line 90's racing sail) and 1 good main, one no good.

The guy had it listed at 3,700 but after talking with him as I had suspected he is done with it and just wants the cost of the brand new outboard.

Thinking it could be a great little find. Anyone else want to tell me it's awful?

PS. All the talk of children on board has nothing to do with this boat. I do want a safe boat but it will only be used for the odd weekend cruise and beer can racing. My experience is weekend racing, bit of cruising growing up, and now I am a fishing charter captain. Sailboats are a bit different and I am just a cautious person as to the nature of this thread. Overall, I went into it not expecting much out of the boat but was pleasantly surprised after viewing.

[Mike Banks]

This has to be viewed as just an assemblage of chandlery and priced accordingly. Often a vessel is worth more in second hand parts than as an entity--but then--there are the costs of stripping and cataloguing the parts and the costs of selling them on. That is why such vessels sell for very little.

So--buy it by all means--at a price.

If you can safely fix her up--so much the better--

[captlloyd]

Sounds like you may have found a good deal as I suspected it could be. From your post it looks like you know what you are doing and have some construction savvy. Keep us posted on your project and good luck.

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by captlloyd

From your post it looks like you know what you are doing and have some construction savvy.

Not sure I agree, some marine construction savvy would include at least some proper terminology.

To the OP. You may have raced for years but that teaches little about vessel construction or proper repair procedures or materials. Get a good (not as easy as it sounds) surveyor to look at it with you.

I don't know where you are but where I live it can cost $3k - $6K to dispose of a "bargain" boat of that size.

[captlloyd]

Originally Posted by boatpoker

Not sure I agree, some marine construction savvy would include at least some proper terminology.

To the OP. You may have raced for years but that teaches little about vessel construction or proper repair procedures or materials. Get a good (not as easy as it sounds) surveyor to look at it with you.

I don't know where you are but where I live it can cost $3k - $6K to dispose of a "bargain" boat of that size.

Really curious, you School the OP on a basic lack of terminology, I reread his post and for the life of me can’t find one egregious mistake. Can you please enlighten me on this butchering of marine terminology?

[Youngblood]

Well, looks like I am buying the boat. Had a knowledgeable friend go over it all and seems like a good find. I offered 1800 CAD and the guy took it. He had a dozen replies at the original asking price of 3700. However, I was the first to reply and will be using it for what he thinks is what it is best suited for... beer can racing and weekend cruising.

Looking forward to tinkering with the old girl and getting her back to ship shape.

YB

Photos to come for those interested.

[Cheechako]

Could be a great find. Inspect the bulkheads and especially the cabinetry tabbing to the hull. The momentum may tear that stuff loose. If all that is good it sounds ok. I managed a Catalina 42 that hit a rock hard here in the PNW, it suffered about $20k in damage due to engine bed and galley cabinetry coming loose from the hull. You couldn't tell it just walking through the boat though. I like those R26's.

[FutureStories]

I saw keel bolts mentioned earlier. But not in your description of things you checked out.

Be careful. Those things are Fing expensive!!!! Like $10k and most yards won’t touch them expensive (and that’s on a good day!)

A surveyor will probably cost about $600 for that boat and I’m assuming you aren’t going to have full coverage. Might be worth your time to just hire a glass professional and rigger to come out and inspect the structural integrity. Your average surveyor doesn’t get too in depth and doesn’t do invasive testing (if the sole is screwed down they won’t pull it up to look at the stringers)

Where are you located? There are lots of boats here in MD that are race ready in good condition for $5k-$10k in that size and bigger. I know of two C&Cs and a J/30 that could all be solid options for you.

[FutureStories]

Originally Posted by FutureStories

I saw keel bolts mentioned earlier. But not in your description of things you checked out.

Be careful. Those things are Fing expensive!!!! Like $10k and most yards won’t touch them expensive (and that’s on a good day!)

A surveyor will probably cost about $600 for that boat and I’m assuming you aren’t going to have full coverage. Might be worth your time to just hire a glass professional and rigger to come out and inspect the structural integrity. Your average surveyor doesn’t get too in depth and doesn’t do invasive testing (if the sole is screwed down they won’t pull it up to look at the stringers)

Where are you located? There are lots of boats here in MD that are race ready in good condition for $5k-$10k in that size and bigger. I know of two C&Cs and a J/30 that could all be solid options for you.

Whoops. Just saw you bought it. Hope it brings you tons of fun. $1800 is a solid price. You can always strip it down at that price and make money!

[Jim Cate]

Be careful. Those things are Fing expensive!!!! Like $10k and most yards won’t touch them expensive (and that’s on a good day!)

Since the OP's decision has been made, perhaps a little drift is acceptable...

I'm kinda astonished by the above quoted statement. Why on earth would keel bolts be that expensive? They are just bolts, and in the case of this boat, neither very large diameter nor very long nor made of some expensive alloy. Because of the outward turning flange design of the Ranger's keel, they can be replaced without dropping the keel (as can many such designs).

Could you explain why you believe in your 10 grand price tag, please?

Jim

[FutureStories]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

Since the OP's decision has been made, perhaps a little drift is acceptable...

I'm kinda astonished by the above quoted statement. Why on earth would keel bolts be that expensive? They are just bolts, and in the case of this boat, neither very large diameter nor very long nor made of some expensive alloy. Because of the outward turning flange design of the Ranger's keel, they can be replaced without dropping the keel (as can many such designs).

Could you explain why you believe in your 10 grand price tag, please?

Jim

You’re right. Assuming the bolts had been properly maintained. However if it hadn’t been and the bolts had been weeping and then it’s become corroded the yard will have to drop the keel. And before they do that they drop the mast too. And you’ve got to pay to put both back on.

I’m not familiar with the particular boat’s bolt accessibility, but some manufacturers even like hiding the bolts so you’ve got to get a carpenter in too making the job even more fun.

I’ve seen 2 quotes this past year for $12k+ on one boat and the other $18k+. And just getting a yard to quote the $18k one was difficult because nobody wanted to touch it since 4 of the 12 bolts were inaccessible.

Had the bolts been properly maintained it would have been a simple DIY $12/bolt fix. But let’s face it, someone who hits a rock and doesn’t have the money to pay the tow bill or the sense to have a towing package probably didn’t pay too much attention to the finer points.

So again I said OVER $10k price tag.

It’s kind of like the leaky deck hardware. That could have been fixed with a $5 tube. That’s leaked for 15 years. And now the boats a wet noodle, a bulkhead is rotted and chainplates don’t have something solid and you lose the mast. It didn’t get from $5 to $50,000 overnight, but it gets there!

[FutureStories]

Disclaimer:

All above given quotes are from yards in or around the Annapolis area. So they’re all inflated by at least 10%-30% if your standard US yards (excluding New England, Florida and California hahahaha)