Originally Posted by Svpearllee2021
Thanks orin. I don't have a dingy just yet, that will be next on the list after bottom paint
, top paint
and some small deck repairs
. So you'd use the dingy and power the boat with that as opposed to attaching an outboard
bracket? Good to know.
Circumstantially I think itís a lot better choice if moving it temporarily. You donít have holes to patch later or anything. There is a small risk of flipping the dinghy, but my general rules are if Iím sailing the dinghy is towed or stowed and the outboard is always stowed when not in use. Therefore the hip-tied dinghy would only be used in circumstances where lack of wind
forced me to use an engine. Generally calm conditions.
Ideally if you were repowering with an outboard instead of putting a bracket on the back youíd make a well to put the outboard sort of under/behind the cockpit
and bonus points for setting it up so the outboard rotated with the rudder
, using throttle levers by the helm
, and putting a flexible fairing seal so the water
doesnít eddy there and itíll reduce the tendency for waves to force their way up to the top of the outboard.
If youíre just going to slap an outboard on the back
1) most transoms are not at the right angle. So youíll probably have to build up a mounting bracket for the outboard bracket.
2) you should drill / core
out / epoxy
and then re-drill the wholes as to avoid water
penetration to the hull
3) seal all the holes so water doesnít get inside the boat
4) use a bracket that allows you to bring the motor
upwards so you can reach the fasteners and whatnot while aboard.
5) Make sure the outboard can still tilt up and out of the water as when you lift
it to access the levers to tilt it up, it will bring the outboard closer to the boat. Likely youíll have to stand the outboard bracket off the boat by a foot or more.
6) Install Morse or telegraph / teleflex cables
to control the throttle and gear
shift from the helm
. Trust me you donít want to hang off the stern to kick it into reverse while running towards an obstacle and thereby loose steering
7) Perhaps install some way of turning the outboard with the helm. Not strictly necessary but will really add to maneuverability.
As a side note, my outboard frequently popped up if I hit reverse too hard in some cases. So donít count on it as a break as much.
I would avoid running it in any conditions with waves more than a couple of feet. Itís really easy to dunk an outboard hanging off the back of a sailboat. Not sure if itíll be an issue with yours.
As a side note gasoline fumes are explosive so if replacing the diesel
in your tank with gas, just be more careful.
Given half a choice Iíd go out of my way to have an inboard diesel. They can be found on Craigslist reasonably. The boat youíve got is probably small enough almost anything you put in it will work
just fine. Diesel engines people typically use for gensets etc will likely push that boat just fine. My Bristol 28 had a Farymann
43W in it. Pushed it at around 4-5 knots. Speaking of those engines are cheap
even new (4.5k?) and pretty self contained. The Volvo is definitely smoother and whatnot but a new one of those will probably run you $7k.
Again back to what I said first though. Even if I had to take the crankshaft to a machinist and replace all the engine bearings I would - doing a total overhaul
like that, paint included I might have $1-2k into the project
as long as I didnít also replace all the accessories, injector pump
and the likes. That said, perhaps I am a penny pincher. I am definitely particular about my boats. Original things wear together and sometimes thatís a good thing.