Exterior vanish

[Trublue212]

I have just sanded down some timber trim in the companionway right sown to bare timber on my newly purchased Cavalier37. Could anyone suggest what is the best vanish product to put on. We live in tropical North Queensland and get hit by the sun. Your advice would be much appreciated.

[Uncle Bob]

Hi I have started using Bondall Monocel gold exterior wood varnish. I find that it brushes well, sets up without sagging and is reasonably forgiving. (providing one has some knowledge of painting) and best of all it is reasonably priced and available from Bunnings. So far I am more impressed with it than other more expensive products.
Whatever you choose you will need to do a MIN 6 coats but more is better.

[Trublue212]

Thank you Uncle Bob. Are you using this prodyct as a result of a recommendation or Are you in the experimental phase?

[Uncle Bob]

Originally Posted by Trublue212

Thank you Uncle Bob. Are you using this prodyct as a result of a recommendation or Are you in the experimental phase?

It was recommended to me by another boat owner and so far I am happy.

[roverhi]

Have had very poor luck getting varnish to last in the tropics. It gets dinged up and begins to haze over quickly begging for more coats before you know it. If you get a bit lazy, you have to take it back to barewood and start over which is not fun having to do 5-6 coats. Seems if I wanted varnished bright work would either have to hire it done and maintained or sign an indentured servitude to the Master teak.

Tried Sikkens Cetol some years back and it looked decent from 15' and lasted nearly two years before needing a recoat. Still didn't like that orange color which was the only way it came back then. After my 14th nervous breakdown with Epifanes varnish, decided to try Cetol Natural Teak. It's a lot more transparent than the old Cetol and doesn't make your woodwork look like a pumpkin. Have only tried it in a few places but will become a total Cetol boat if it lasts for more than a year without recoating. It's a lot more transparent than regular Sikkens and looks good from 5' though it still doesn't meet the closeup looks of varnish but I can live with it. Haven't tried the gloss finish coat but hear good things about that.

[chris95040]

Smiths CPES as a primer on the bare teak, soaking application, let it fully cure, scuff, and 6 coats of bristol 2 part poly. I’ve had that last over 4 years with no recoats so far in new england, but half the year the boat is under a canvas tent. The teak looks gorgeous and honey colored.

Some areas where I half assed it and allowed water under the teak were kind of a pain to deal with. When redoing it, it still came off fine with a heat gun and sharp, flat scraper, but that process went slower than it does with varnish.

[Trublue212]

Thank you so much for a speedy reply

[Trublue212]

Thank you for this info. I am really looking for a good closeup finish. Hard to find it seems.

[Trublue212]

A friend suggested a Goldpar gloss from Bunnings. He comes from the NSW central coast though. I am happy to give these products you suggested a go though. I have sanded back to bare timber and am trying to get it right the first time. Cheers

[Uncle Bob]

Originally Posted by Trublue212

A friend suggested a Goldpar gloss from Bunnings. He comes from the NSW central coast though. I am happy to give these products you suggested a go though. I have sanded back to bare timber and am trying to get it right the first time. Cheers

Just checked the bunnings cattle dog, couldn't find goldspar gloss though the monocel that I referenced is known as monocel gold marine varnish. Perhaps the same . If you want to absolutely seal the timber then international everdure first then at least 6 coats of varnish of choice. A light sand between coats with the paper grade getting finer for every second coat.

[Trublue212]

I had forgotten about evidure. Great idea Uncle Bob. Thank you for your help. I very much appreciate it!