Easy way to seal some cracks in gelcoat / surface causing rain to leak into cabin?

[jimTheSailorMan]

Originally Posted by Bleemus

The leak is caused by rain getting past that poorly fit plywood lid.

Seems like a bad design modification/replacement - rain hits around the 2 large access doors and angled deck area and all runs into this storage area which has a recess (and thus the low point). Looks like it's been modified and not original. Does anybody know how the cover should be so it doesn't leak?

[jimTheSailorMan]

Originally Posted by travellerw

... take this opportunity to learn how to do some fiberglass. It sounds like this problem could be solved by a couple of layers of fiberglass on the backside to seal up the crack.

Willing to learn and do the fiberglass repair but...


Wondering even if everything was sealed perfectly with fiberglass, the storage area would still fill up with water after a rain. Wondering what the solution is to that problem.

[jimTheSailorMan]

Originally Posted by roverhi

You've got spider cracks radiating from a hole.

No, area around the hole is good - no cracks. So the Ace Hardware stopper works. Cracks are in the bottom longitudinal bends on the bottom of the storage area.

[Bleemus]

It's a trailer sailer with an icebox on deck. The drain you plugged was to drain the melting ice to the bilge.

If you fix the cracks rainwater will still go to the bilge if you have a hose from the drain.

If you are daysailing it then patch the cracks, use it as an icebox and cover the boat when not in use.

If you are leaving it in the water then you should glass over the area where the plywood is located.

[Mike Banks]

If you are out of port, always carry a roll or two of "Flashtack" or its equivalent. It is a tape of aluminium foil of varying widths backed by a butyl rubber layer (sometimes a bitumastic layer) which will stick to anything including fingers, I like it about four to six inches wide because you can always cut it smaller..

Clean the area surrounding the crack with methylated spirits and let it dry. While it is drying, run out a tape and measure the length of the crack plus about three inches either end of it. Cut from your roll of tape that amount, and using sharp scissors, round off the corners of the piece. Begin to peel away the backing paper, and once you have enough slack to be able to pull it by hand, apply the bared end of the tape to the area cleaned, and while pressing it against the hull, pull out the backing paper while guiding the tape over the crack. Once it is covered, you can press and roll it firmly into contact. Leave it as is or paint it, and it will stop any leaks at least until you can get to a place where more permanent repairs can be made.

Fashtack--or its equivalent, is a useful adjunct to any Boatswain's stores. Along with Ferropre--something else every boat should have aboard. Ferropre is a water-based epoxy putty which is a two-pack kit. Used within reason it will set underwater and is very strong and adhesive qualities are great.

On another thought, while on about plugging leaks, I also have in my emergency stash, 1/4 sheets of four and three millimetre plywood pre-saturated with cured Wattyl timber preservative--a penetrating epoxy. They take up little space jammed against the hull. I also have ready some stainless steel self-drilling self-tapping screws, along with a hand drill and a bit already fitted to drill for those screws. Unlike power drills, hand operated drills work under water.

With sheets of thin ply laminated with Ferropre and a layer of Ferropre against the hull, quite serious damage can be fothered until one can get to a safe place. It takes up little space and might save a life or two.

Of course I am a pessimist--but where boats are concerned senseless optimism will just get you drowned.

[Djarraluda]

I agree with the bitumastic tape, but you could also simply use something like this to attach thick builder's plastic as a liner to the bin.
It will last a year until you do the fibreglass patching.

Roger

[BruceS]

I snapped a hacksaw blade in half & used the last tooth the follow the cracks until you get to the actual fibreglass & then using a fine tipped brush, fill that with gelcoat. Slightly overfill it & in a couple of days use several wet & dry 'emery' paper until smooth. Start with 120/240/400/800. When 'happy' give the boat a good wax over.
Even cheaper, just use Selleys "Paint Over".... no silicon in it.

[jimTheSailorMan]

Originally Posted by Bleemus

It's a trailer sailer with an icebox on deck. The drain you plugged was to drain the melting ice to the bilge.

If you fix the cracks rainwater will still go to the bilge if you have a hose be from the drain.

If you are daysailing it then patch the cracks, use it as an icebox and cover the boat when not in use.

If you are leaving it in the water then you should glass over the area where the plywood is located.

FYI. There is no bilge, it drips on the floor of the cabin and puddles on the fiberglass floor.

[ramblinrod]

Originally Posted by jimTheSailorMan

Here are some photos

Looking from back of boat - area with old plywood hinged cover is the storage area that's leaking




This is what the plywood cover looks like: - it has a long piano hinge holding it on.

Finally, looking down into the storage area - noticed that somebody tried to fix this before. Feels like home latex caulk (not silicone). Top right has a stopper I added to plug the 1" hole. Red rectangles show the cracks with previous caulk repair and where it leaks into the boat cabin.



Is this to store anything special. Cover feels weird since you have to stand or put a foot on it when dealing with the boom/mainsail. I don't really need the storage since the whole cabin is empty but I would rather have good footing when reaching for the sail / boom connections to the mast.

Wonder if reason for cracks is somebody might have used it as a stepping point in the past?

Great photos.


Recommendation for 1 year repair.
Don't.
Anything worth doing is worth doing right so it doesn't have to be done again.

Lay in 2 layers of 1.5 oz CSM fibreglass with unwaxed polyester resin, let it cure, apply gelcoat with 4" foamy roller.

While at it, do the same all over that plywood lid.

While at it, replace the hinge with something SS.