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Old 07-11-2022, 12:31   #1
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Corrosion Block

What are you using for Corrosion Block on engines and other metal parts?
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Old 07-11-2022, 12:58   #2
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Re: Corrosion Block

WD40 on engine. After any work I do it gets a light spray and wipe down. Cheap, readily available and for its designed purpose. Exterior parts should be stainless, wash and rinse regularly. If you notice staining, chances are there is some hidden corrosion and should be investigated and repaired/replaced. Aluminum (spars) rinse clean and keep dissimilar metals isolated form the aluminum.
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Old 07-11-2022, 13:00   #3
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Re: Corrosion Block

I settled on CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor after reading Practical Sailor reviews:
https://www.practical-sailor.com/boa...ion-inhibitors
https://www.practical-sailor.com/boa...n-coating-test
https://www.practical-sailor.com/wp-..._VAL_GUIDE.pdf
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Old 07-11-2022, 13:35   #4
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Re: Corrosion Block

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Originally Posted by rbk View Post
WD40 on engine. After any work I do it gets a light spray and wipe down. Cheap, readily available and for its designed purpose. Exterior parts should be stainless, wash and rinse regularly. If you notice staining, chances are there is some hidden corrosion and should be investigated and repaired/replaced. Aluminum (spars) rinse clean and keep dissimilar metals isolated form the aluminum.
Are you spraying the entire engine or just the area you worked on? Hadn't thought about spraying the engine down with something as a corrosion blocker.
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Old 07-11-2022, 14:11   #5
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Re: Corrosion Block

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Are you spraying the entire engine or just the area you worked on? Hadn't thought about spraying the engine down with something as a corrosion blocker.
After winter maintenance I do the whole engine. I just spray it down and sped 15 min going over it all with a rag to soak any excess up, good time to wiggle components, bolts and see if there are any obvious signs of wear etc. Outside that, if I'm working on just one area or say draining the heat exchanger to replace an anode and salt water is involved I'll do that specific area again for good measure. WD40 seems to smoke and smell the least of the corrosion inhibitors on a hot engine IMO.
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Old 07-11-2022, 15:45   #6
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Re: Corrosion Block

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Originally Posted by rbk View Post
After winter maintenance I do the whole engine. I just spray it down and sped 15 min going over it all with a rag to soak any excess up, good time to wiggle components, bolts and see if there are any obvious signs of wear etc. Outside that, if I'm working on just one area or say draining the heat exchanger to replace an anode and salt water is involved I'll do that specific area again for good measure. WD40 seems to smoke and smell the least of the corrosion inhibitors on a hot engine IMO.
Interesting, i shall start implementing this technique in my routine. Thanks!
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Old 08-11-2022, 19:27   #7
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Re: Corrosion Block

I have a 25 year old Volvo TMD22 with 2 circumnavigations, and almost 10,000 hours. It looks and runs like new. Our "Corrosion block" on the engine is: PAINT. Paint, and love, and attention.

If the paint coating is damaged, or scratched, or not intact in any way, we touch it up from the spray can we keep handy. We absolutely avoid any kinds of penetrating oil or other "magic" sprays because they are all temporary, and make any later touch-up painting a total PITA. They all evaporate off a hot engine way faster then you think. So not only do they make a mess, they don't even really work.

Just as important as keeping a good, intact paint film is keeping salt water OFF. Fix ANY AND ALL leaks NOW. Look for them. FIX them. Get the salt OFF, and keep it off. It's not hard. It just takes a bit of care.

If there is a spot of rust, do NOT tolerate it, fix it. scrape, sand, or brush it off, and paint it.

If there are oil or fuel leaks, FIX them.

If your engine is well cared for you should be able to eat off of it. That is NOT an exaggeration. There should be NO oil, NO diesel fuel, NO WD40, NO Corrosion Block, No CorrosionX, or whatever, on the surface. It doesn't belong there, and is not needed except as a crutch to patch other problems.

A clean engine is a happy engine. No so much because the engine cares, but the process of keeping it clean and spotless forces you to LOOK at it and you will see minor issues before they become major problems.
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Old 08-11-2022, 22:11   #8
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Re: Corrosion Block

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Originally Posted by ItDepends View Post
I have a 25 year old Volvo TMD22 with 2 circumnavigations, and almost 10,000 hours. It looks and runs like new. Our "Corrosion block" on the engine is: PAINT. Paint, and love, and attention.

If the paint coating is damaged, or scratched, or not intact in any way, we touch it up from the spray can we keep handy. We absolutely avoid any kinds of penetrating oil or other "magic" sprays because they are all temporary, and make any later touch-up painting a total PITA. They all evaporate off a hot engine way faster then you think. So not only do they make a mess, they don't even really work.

Just as important as keeping a good, intact paint film is keeping salt water OFF. Fix ANY AND ALL leaks NOW. Look for them. FIX them. Get the salt OFF, and keep it off. It's not hard. It just takes a bit of care.

If there is a spot of rust, do NOT tolerate it, fix it. scrape, sand, or brush it off, and paint it.

If there are oil or fuel leaks, FIX them.

If your engine is well cared for you should be able to eat off of it. That is NOT an exaggeration. There should be NO oil, NO diesel fuel, NO WD40, NO Corrosion Block, No CorrosionX, or whatever, on the surface. It doesn't belong there, and is not needed except as a crutch to patch other problems.

A clean engine is a happy engine. No so much because the engine cares, but the process of keeping it clean and spotless forces you to LOOK at it and you will see minor issues before they become major problems.
So you’re painting all your nuts and bolt heads, injectors, hose clamps and fittings? I keep my engine immaculate and there are things that just don’t get paint. Keeping things lightly oiled ensures things don’t seize and break. Too much paint can also hide issues.
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Old 09-11-2022, 04:57   #9
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Re: Corrosion Block

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So you’re painting all your nuts and bolt heads, injectors, hose clamps and fittings? I keep my engine immaculate and there are things that just don’t get paint. Keeping things lightly oiled ensures things don’t seize and break. Too much paint can also hide issues.
Of course there are things that don't get paint , and I'll bet there are things that you do not "oil". Wires? Hoses? Belts? Pulleys? Like with too much paint, too much oil can hide leaks and other issues.

In my case, I run my engines with the decision that "too much" oil is ANY. I don't quite understand how wiping oil on the SURFACE of the engine "ensures things don’t seize." That's what thread anti-sieze is for. And there are things that just don't get paint for good reasons. My alternators (for example) are unpainted, and stay that way because it would only reduce heat transfer. And why on earth would I paint stainless steel hose clamps???

I don't keep adding paint onto the engine in layer after layer. I keep the paint in good shape. Sometimes I scrape off a bit that has failed to touch it up. If the paint is in good shape, then the engine is NOT rusty or otherwise corroded--that just kind of has to follow, doesn't it?

I don't THINK you would suggest that the best thing to do is remove all paint and just wipe the bare metal with oil, so I THINK you might agree that a good paint job has value. You think that adding oil on top of a good paint job is a good idea, I have found it unnecessary and counter-productive.

My point is NOT to go dipping your engine in paint every month, but that keeping an engine covered with an external film of oil is a very traditional, and not very effective, way of keeping them clean and well maintained. It attracts dirt and salt in ways that a clean dry engine does not. It's virtually impossible to wipe down the entire surface of most small diesel engines, especially as installed in sailboats. In the case of my engine, wiping the majority of its surface is impossible. There are just too many parts mounted in ways that block access. So there would either be large areas that I would have to leave dry, or just spray on and let drip off. I prefer to leave them clean and dry.

With care and attention, oiling the outside is certainly not the worst thing you can do to an engine, and I am not going to try to talk you out of it. The worst thing you can do to an engine is just not look at it.
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Old 09-11-2022, 08:18   #10
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Re: Corrosion Block

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Originally Posted by ItDepends View Post
Of course there are things that don't get paint , and I'll bet there are things that you do not "oil". Wires? Hoses? Belts? Pulleys? Like with too much paint, too much oil can hide leaks and other issues.

In my case, I run my engines with the decision that "too much" oil is ANY. I don't quite understand how wiping oil on the SURFACE of the engine "ensures things don’t seize." That's what thread anti-sieze is for. And there are things that just don't get paint for good reasons. My alternators (for example) are unpainted, and stay that way because it would only reduce heat transfer. And why on earth would I paint stainless steel hose clamps???

I don't keep adding paint onto the engine in layer after layer. I keep the paint in good shape. Sometimes I scrape off a bit that has failed to touch it up. If the paint is in good shape, then the engine is NOT rusty or otherwise corroded--that just kind of has to follow, doesn't it?

I don't THINK you would suggest that the best thing to do is remove all paint and just wipe the bare metal with oil, so I THINK you might agree that a good paint job has value. You think that adding oil on top of a good paint job is a good idea, I have found it unnecessary and counter-productive.

My point is NOT to go dipping your engine in paint every month, but that keeping an engine covered with an external film of oil is a very traditional, and not very effective, way of keeping them clean and well maintained. It attracts dirt and salt in ways that a clean dry engine does not. It's virtually impossible to wipe down the entire surface of most small diesel engines, especially as installed in sailboats. In the case of my engine, wiping the majority of its surface is impossible. There are just too many parts mounted in ways that block access. So there would either be large areas that I would have to leave dry, or just spray on and let drip off. I prefer to leave them clean and dry.

With care and attention, oiling the outside is certainly not the worst thing you can do to an engine, and I am not going to try to talk you out of it. The worst thing you can do to an engine is just not look at it.
Absolutely agree that a good maintained paint job is part of the solution but my point was that not everything gets paint and must remain unprotected. The 'WD' in WD40 stands for water displacing. When you have a cold engine block in a humid marine environment they tend to 'sweat'; Condensation forms all over and generally I have found bolt heads and areas that have no paint tend to accumulate the most usually running off painted surfaces and accumulating on flat surfaces generally where there are unprotected bolts, nuts or infamously injectors which like to seize in the block. When this happens the condensation mixes with surface contaminants (even a clean engine gets dust particles and air borne salt) these contaminants and water accumulate and weep down into threads, around injectors and into the threads on hose clamps, electrical connections etc. If the surface of these have an oiled surface the water does nothing but stay on top of the film and evaporate. If there is no protection the oxygen and minerals (usually containing salt) oxidize/corrode the exposed metal (usually mild steel for engine bolts or 304 SS for other threaded or machined parts etc) these rust and seize. The WD properties push water away from the surface of these metals keeping them free of corrosion and ensuring easy maintenance and removal. Even with anti seize in the threads corrosion can build at the top of the bolt/nut and seize them in place. I agree that spraying it down and leaving it dripping with oil is not a good idea but a light spray all over and a good wipe down ensures the owner goes over 90% of the engine thoroughly this keeps the paint clean and shinny and any unprotected surfaces get a thin film of water displacing corrosion inhibiting oil, to me there is zero drawback. This doesn't mean only wiping down flat surfaces either, everything gets the rag, every crevice and crack that can be reached, including wiring, hoses, pulleys etc this ensures dust and debris don't build up in the nooks and crannies. I should also add that wd40 does not inhibit the adhesion of paint to the block during touch ups and actually helps clean the paint (you can use it to clean bugs and tar off your car without damaging the painted surface). I would be concerned with some of the other corrosion inhibitors affecting adhesion as they can leave a tacky film on the surface.
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