Anchoring over bow rollers?

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by rick bertram

You don’t need a snubber at all on your system. With only 10’ of chain there is no need. What you lack is enough chain. I’d replace your entire with at least 150’ of chain followed by another 150’ rope rope. The depth of your anchorage location will determine how much chair / rope you let let out and if you need a snubber at all. Remember use at least 5 to 1 ratio for chain. If you’re in 30’ of water that’s 150’ of chain. Since you are at the end of your chain now, let out another 30’ of the rope rhode to absorb the shock. If you anchor in 15’ of water you won’t use all your chain so you won’t get to the rope and you will need a snubber. I am on the west coast and usually try to set that way. If the winds are expected to be high, 20+Kts, I go with 7 to 1 ratio.

Finally, back to the OP's question, which concerned anchoring with rope!! There are plenty of chain threads.


The other thing to remember is the the OP is in the Chesapeake Bay. He will NEVER need to anchor in more than 10-15 feet of water. He will likely never have anything on the bottom that could cut the chain. Not impossible, but rocks are scarce as hen's teeth and not in any harbor. He does not have a windlass, so chain is a PITA.



My concerns would be chafe on the sides of the roller plates and jumping out if there are waves (VERY low risk on the Chesapeake, unless you anchor someplace pointlessly exposed, for which there is no reason).


People do what he is suggesting all the time here. Very low risk. That said, I might get a windlass and more chain, as you suggested. When I had a similar boat that is what I did.


The alternative is to rig a snubber, not to reduce shock, but just to eliminate chafe on the main rode. I've done that too. Just attached a short line with a rolling hitch or prusik. In this case, there will be less wear if it is non-stretch, like polyester or Dyneema.

[jtsailjt]

Originally Posted by thinwater

My concerns would be chafe on the sides of the roller plates and jumping out if there are waves (VERY low risk on the Chesapeake, unless you anchor someplace pointlessly exposed, for which there is no reason).





The alternative is to rig a snubber, not to reduce shock, but just to eliminate chafe on the main rode. I've done that too. Just attached a short line with a rolling hitch or prusik. In this case, there will be less wear if it is non-stretch, like polyester or Dyneema.

Using either chain with snubber or nylon rode, it’s a good idea to have a pin or bale over the roller to prevent the rode from jumping out and getting chafed through on the edges of the bow roller fitting or on the forestay.

The problem with using a rolling hitch to fasten a snubber to a nylon rode is that it’s pretty likely to slip, especially if something as slippery as dyneema is used. I’ve tried tying 2 rolling hitches in sequence and that seems to help though. Rolling hitches can also loosen during periods of little wind or current, leading to increased slippage when the wind increases. I’ve had better luck using rolling hitches to attach a nylon snubber to chain but for rope on rope hitches I wouldn’t be surprised to see some slippage. I haven’t tried a Prusik hitch so possibly those are less likely to slip?

[JaaaPeee]

Our last boat was a 38' C&C, not a Landfall, but all dimensions were identical. We used her throughout the Chesapeake for many years, often serving as anchor boat for anywhere from 3 to 7 boats. Even alone, we always let out 7:1 scope. As others stated, add more chain (minimum should be boat length). Bow rollers are designed for anchoring, so they are good. Yes, take the load off the windless and tie the line off one of the bow cleats; they are far enough aft to not cause any problem.
Add another 125' to the anchor rode. Extra is always safer.

[JimZeigler]

We have a 40' trawler and anchor often throughout the Chesapeake. Simple answer, is that having the rode over the roller in light to moderate winds is not issue, presuming you have no chafe issues. However, you do not want the strain on the windless for all the reasons stated. You need a very stoutly mounted cleat or in our case, we have a Samson post. Second, you do not have enough chain. We have 40' following a rule of thumb that the chain should be the boat length. It has worked for us - never dragged when setting 7:1 scope ( measured from the height of the bow roller to the bottom, not just based on depth). Of course, with that much chain, you need a washdown pump or will be spending a lot of bucket time on bow. In a heavy blow ( read Thunderstorm), I start the engine and idle the engine to relieve the strain on the anchor - in other words, when the wind is blowing strong enough that I do not move significantly forward over the anchor with the ending in gear at idle. I try not to anchor in an exposed location in high winds or if I know they are coming, the exception being the occasional thunderstorm. Good luck and fair winds.

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by jtsailjt

...I haven’t tried a Prusik hitch so possibly those are less likely to slip?

http://itrsonline.org/wordpress/wp-c...vans_.2014.pdf


Yes, much less likely. Climbers use prusik hitches, not rolling hitches. Depending on the materials, 1500 pounds to full strength are possible. Basically, it will hold the full wind load.

[Don C L]

You could make the loop for the Prusik hitch out of nylon and then use dyneema for the snubber. I haven't tried dyneema for a Prusik hitch but I kinda suspect it MAY be more likely to slip. I'll have to try it some time...

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by jtsailjt

Using either chain with snubber or nylon rode, it’s a good idea to have a pin or bale over the roller to prevent the rode from jumping out and getting chafed through on the edges of the bow roller fitting or on the forestay.

The problem with using a rolling hitch to fasten a snubber to a nylon rode is that it’s pretty likely to slip, especially if something as slippery as dyneema is used. I’ve tried tying 2 rolling hitches in sequence and that seems to help though. Rolling hitches can also loosen during periods of little wind or current, leading to increased slippage when the wind increases. I’ve had better luck using rolling hitches to attach a nylon snubber to chain but for rope on rope hitches I wouldn’t be surprised to see some slippage. I haven’t tried a Prusik hitch so possibly those are less likely to slip?

I have no luck whatsoever with any kind of knots in single braid dyneema, so I just don't do it. Knots need friction and dyneema is slippery. I'm sure there are exceptions, but other than button knots and such I haven't found them.


Didn't Evans Starzinger invent a "super snubber" which was a long piece of nylon with dyneema just for the part which worked in the deck hardware? I know the nylon is theoretically unnecessary with a rope rode, but would it be harmful? I guess it wouldn't. So you could just make up a piece of dyneema with spliced loops, and a piece of nylon with one spliced loop, hook them together, rolling hitch or prussik the nylon to the rode, and Bob's your uncle.