Note the little brown piece on the soda lid laying under the oilpan. That is a flake off of the starboard forward motor mount bearing surface (on the bottom of the engine, above the mount itself but the support for the mount). It fell off when I was removing the oilpan. There was apparently a water leak in a hose on the starboard side (from this angle, we are looking aft, of course) and the alternator
and starter were eaten, and the oilpan is razor thin on that side, leading to a replacement of it as well. The engine is clean as a whistle inside, however. A salt water
spraydown by a PO and no addressing of the corrosion thus introduced/enhanced can make an external wreck of an engine, and this one has so far cost me an alternator, a starter, hoses, clamps, oil pan, an oil change
, and two valve springs along with a bunch of shipping
, and it has not even fired over yet.
What I am saying is that the side of the engine that got liberally doused is obviously so, and the corrosion even tried to move to the other side as well. The whole thing is getting a solid cleaning
as soon as I can get it the fuel
lines repressurized, as when it does start I want to be sure I did not inject water into those lines while they were loose (as they are at the moment, I think they are sucking air). The engine has good compression
, just is not getting fuel
at enough pressure yet because the copper washers on the lines seem to have failed.
Don't discard the engine for salt
necessarily as some others have also advised, but remember you will be replacing the alternator, starter, oil pan, motor mounts, belts, potentially pulleys and other metallic items that have dissolved, seals
, etc. If the engine was recently refurbished, it is going to likely need a more recent attempt as well if you cannot halt the salt's attack on the aluminum
and fiber parts. Unfortunately, that is the majority of the parts I lost
, and will be the same for that engine.
Now, all that said, IMHO, it can be worth it to fix all this IF you can locate the necessary parts (my engine is from 1978 and no longer made new, but some tractor stores carry odd spares when I can locate part numbers for them, such as the aforementioned broken valve spring that at least in part halted the PO on this boat's restoration
prior to my attempt to revive it). However, you DO need to consider this can be a substantial effort in your offer, and you also must consider that just because someone refurbished something, they may or may not have done it properly. Don't insult the lady by inferring her husband was inept or anything, but keep the thought that you may have to do the refurb
again, in addition to handling the situation you see outwardly, to get this thing going again. It could be a rough gem, but it could also be a rust clod too, and that engine looks heavier to lift
than mine is... Yours is also MORE corroded than mine, and I had an oil pan that was razor thin on that side... I managed to locate another pan on eBay for about 70 bucks... How lucky are you?
Consider the cost of the rebuild
or repurchase of another power plant plus the labor return on both processes, and bid from there. I wish I had done so, personally, and did not.