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Old 22-06-2018, 05:12   #1
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Tube Grinder Polisher

I am considering the purchase of a 110volt tube grinder / polisher. I want to finish two full lengths of 316 round material to a mirror finish. Additionally polish the stainless rails on my sailboat a couple times a year.

So I have been looking at different products. The good ones are not inexpensive, Metabo is over 800.00! Csunitech is over 700.00

There are a number of offshore products Hardin Roxx and Bluerock all around $200.00

I know you normally get what you pay for however perhaps somebody has some experience and might point me in the direction of a reasonable product at a reasonable price. I don’t want to waste my time and money.

Fletch
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Old 22-06-2018, 10:18   #2
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Tube Grinder Polisher

You can buy 316 already polished to a mirror finish at about $8/foot depending on location source.

Those pipe polishers strike me as the wrong tool for the job; too large and unwieldy, difficult to get in tight areas, etc.

Marine fabricator polish using grits of sandpaper, then deburring, then compound with polishing wheels. If all you’re doing is taking out minor scratches then deburring and hitting it with compound is the way to go. Even the deburring is only necessary for deeper scratches.

If it’s rust you want to get off, usually in joints welds tight spots then an acid/pickling solution makes short work of it.
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Old 22-06-2018, 12:36   #3
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Re: Tube Grinder Polisher

Fletch-
I think of a grinder, as in an angle grinder, for grinding down welds. Not at all the same thing as a polisher. Any polisher will do the rails, but you will need the right pads and abrasives to do a series of finer grits, perhaps going up to a 3000 grit polish like 3M's "Finesse" to get it mirror shiny. That might mean six different wheels, proper wool wheels perhaps, each charged with a different abrasive polish.
Stainless is always formed on carbon steel tools, which embed iron flakes which always rust. So even the best of stainless needs to be passivated in an acid bath, which is not EPA-friendly, and is not cheap, so it often is not done properly. There are passivating pastes on the market for DIY maintenance. Using one of those will be most effective at keeping down the rust, if they are given a chance to "eat out" the embedded iron specks.

Or you can literally pull the rails and have them sent out for a proper acid bath, if you can find one.
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