Originally Posted by estarzinger
the tricky way to get bare dyneema line to work in a clutch is to put an 'internal core' in . . . this is dead easy, just take a piece of any old quite small cord and pull it into/thru the hollow center of the dyneema (using a fid). This is very neat and clean and easy and gives the clutch something to crunch on.
Question: does the buried line be stitched to the dyneema line, so it stays in place? and if so on both sides or just front?
Yes, stitch along the full length of the buried core
or an external cover. In both cases, straight stitches all the way through, then a second set of straight stitches at 90*. Can be done quite easily by hand, but a machine is easier if you have long lengths.
You can see the stitching on these chafe covers for our reefing lines, made from 8mm Acera Amundsen dyneema lines.
Here are the covers on the reefing lines at the gooseneck end of the boom. The jammers are cams and really chew up the lines, so this has to be considered sacrificial and a regular wear item (a decent clutch like the Antal V-grip would be much easier on the line). Next time I will add a core
as well as the cover. The red whippings are at the far ends of each cover and weíre done as burying the ends doesnít seem to work very well on the reefing lines.
The only time you can avoid stitching an external cover is if you the original line was covered and you have removed the cover from one end. In that case the loading through the clutch will be to the covered end. The line will perform just as if you hadnít removed the cover.
This is our running backstay purchase
line. It started out as a 12mm dyneema-core with dyneema-cover line. We stripped the cover for the section that goes through the LFR purchase
. Note that we had to shop around for a dyneema-core line where the core has its own UV protection - many donít as thatís the coverís job.