Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer

[Freerider]

What are your thoughts on this product? Do any of you use it?

I've heard it can increase air bubbles in the oil which I assume isn't a good thing.

I've put it an old volvo md11 to increase oil pressure. The engine has blow-by and it turns over about 10 times before it starts if it has sat for over a week.

I've only started it the once since adding it so its hard to tell if it has helped.

It has worked keeping my oil pressure alarm off, but a heavier oil might do the same.

Any suggestions on a heavier oil to use other than 15w-40?

My concern is oil companies spend X amount of money creating their product, so why would I need to add this Lucas product?

[GordMay]

I don't have any specific information about this particular after-market additive; but believe your skepticism is likely justified, as a matter of general principle.

[barnakiel]

No additives in our MD7's lube oil ever. Diesel stabilizer / bug killer in the fuel yes.

Used thicker oils in hot climes. If you are permanently in the hot area / water, you can use thicker oil.

b.

[S&S]

If your engine is so worn that it can't keep pressure with the spec. oil, it's common to go up a weight. You may blow a seal but it'd not too likely if the pressure is so low that the alarm is going off.

No leaks? clean filter?

What is the recommended grade?

[aboutgone]

check this out.............What about Additives?

[David M]

Interesting link. Its climbing because it is foaming up. Foaming is not something you want your engine oil to do. I would not take chances with my engine warranty. I do exactly as Cummins recommends.

[aboutgone]

exactly ............

[Freerider]

That is interesting, or scary! Maybe that's why a mechanic I know calls it snake oil.

I think I'll pump it out and do an oil change. Does anyone have a recommendation on a heavier grade oil to use? I'm running 15-40, but due to the reasons listed above I need to run a heavier grade.

Thanks

[S&S]

Originally Posted by Freerider

That is interesting, or scary! Maybe that's why a mechanic I know calls it snake oil.

I think I'll pump it out and do an oil change. Does anyone have a recommendation on a heavier grade oil to use? I'm running 15-40, but due to the reasons listed above I need to run a heavier grade.

Thanks

20W-50 is the next multigrade, or you could try SAE30 (straight weight)

[Pblais]

Any suggestions on a heavier oil to use other than 15w-40?

If you can't run a straight 30 and be fine then you have engine problems. A 15 - 40 should work for nearly any situation even hot climates. That is not to say a straight 30 would give better results. While multi weight oils don't have the lubrication of a straight weight oil they do have a lot of other advantages that more than make up the difference.

Additives as a whole have little scientific evidence to back them up beyond junk science. Oil already comes with additives from the oil company.

[Freerider]

Well i actually found a jug of straight 30 in the boat when i bought it, but I wasn't sure what they were using it for, as i also found a jug of 15w-40.

I'm confused about the viscosity difference between 15w-40 and straight 30. I realize the 15w is the cold start viscosity so it would make easier starting than straight 30. However; is the operating viscosity the 2nd number (ie: 40) if this is the case wouldn't SAE 30 be a lighter oil at operating temperature?

[s/v Jedi]

Freerider: you're in cold climate, right? I would go for a multigrade 20W50 or 10W50 if it's really cold.

cheers,
Nick.

[CalebD]

I would suggest that you read the paragraph(s) in Nigel Caulder's "Boat owners Mechanical & Electrical ..." that deal with engine oils.
In a nutshell, not all oils are created equal. They DO come with additives from the factory. Some oils are only intended for use in engines with spark plugs (S = spark) and some are tailored for compression engines (C = compression, or diesel) and some will work equally well in both.
In the US every container of oil has an API (American Petroleum Institute) rating on the label which will contain codes like 'SJ','CF' where the first character is for Spark or Compression and the next character represents some API standard. If you are using an oil that has only 'SJ','SP' etc. ratings then that oil is not intended for use in diesel engines and may break down faster then a 'Cx' rated oil.
In our Atomic 4 gasoline engine I like to use only Rotella T 30W oil as it has the highest ratings for BOTH gas and diesel engines. They also make a 15 W - 40 I believe.
Good luck.