Has anyone considered using wire for hose clamps, instead of threaded steel?

[KP44]

Originally Posted by Jdege

It's a tool for making clamps out of wire. Apparently, this was the usual practice, 100 years ago, but it seems to have fallen out of favor.

Anyone used anything like this?

I have three of these and have used them a lot over about 20 years.

For any critical clamp, I use two stainless marine-grade hose clamps. And I have several dozen spare clamps of various sizes from 1/2 inch through 4 inch. (Hundreds of very expensive clamps.)

That said, the Clamp-Tight makes a neat, tight, dependable clamp of any size. It can clamp anything from a fuel line to a mast boot. The Clamp-Tite is a quick-fix for any size clamp and any size of binding.

Because a clamp is bulky, I especially like the Clamp-Tite for water hoses and dingy fuel hoses. A few wraps of tape over the stainless wire "clamp" makes a smooth and durable clamp. I have not had one fail. (But I will still not use this for hoses below waterline on the boat!)

It can bind polypropylene line to make an eye "splice" if you don't have a rope clamp. I use only poly for my dingy painter because poly floats and will not find its way to my prop at the worst time like most painters. If you have ever tried to splice poly, it is unmanageable without a lot of wrapping with sizing twine. A simpler way is with a rope clamp that is pounded on with a hammer. Poly line degrades quickly in sunlight so it must be replaced every year.

I consider the Clamp-Tite a versatile and dependable tool.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by slug

Gee...you have 45 years of experience using hose clamps , have never read the hose clamp torque table and application guide , yet feel qualified to recommend a technique that is completely unsuitable

I suggest you start here

Familiarize yourself with hose clamp design ...constant diameter or constant tension ... and their correct application

https://www.normaamericasds.com/blog...lt-hose-clamps

You keep repeating that so you must not realize that the wire clamps we’re talking about here are actually tension type clamps, tensioned with a screw just like the ones you use. You are confusing the wire type we discuss here with the ones that are fixed shape and opened wider with pliers. Someone posted a pic of those, but they have nothing to do with the Clamptite kind discussed here.
They are the same, except the screw is removed after tensioning.

[slug]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

You keep repeating that so you must not realize that the wire clamps we’re talking about here are actually tension type clamps, tensioned with a screw just like the ones you use. You are confusing the wire type we discuss here with the ones that are fixed shape and opened wider with pliers. Someone posted a pic of those, but they have nothing to do with the Clamptite kind discussed here.
They are the same, except the screw is removed after tensioning.

Sorry , I have used hundreds of meters of monel wire to secure the ends of exhaust lagging and pipe insulation
The exact same technique

You technique has no torque setting for tensioning the clamp , it can not expand and contract as the fitting changes temperature , it has no rating for hose type , it’s band width and clamping surface is poor and most importantly ... no equipment supplier specifies this method in their shop service manual
In fact a service manual .,.MTU or other has specific part number for each type clamp

When you cross reference the part number you will understand its design and see it torque setting

All information is available from suppliers

https://www.normaamericasds.com/blogs/proper-torque-specifications-worm-drive-hose-clamps-and-t-bolt-hose-clamps

Half baked DIY internet tricks are to be avoided

[rslifkin]

Wire clamps certainly aren't the ideal clamp for a lot of situations. But that doesn't mean they won't work as a temporary fix if you don't have the correct clamp on hand.

On engines, constant tension spring clamps are great, but they can only be re-used a couple of times in my experience. Screw or t-bolt clamps (constant diameter) work fine too, just re-tighten at least once after the first heat cycle. And use a wide band clamp or double clamp anywhere there's room, as that gives better clamping without crushing the hose like Slug mentioned as things change temperature, etc.

[Tellie]

I work on a lot of boats as well. Most peoples spares are sorely lacking. I have three different sizes of Clamp tite tools I've had for years. Nothing beats the proper clamp, but in a pinch the perfect clamp is 100 miles away on a Sunday when the store is closed.

[transmitterdan]

Originally Posted by Tellie

I work on a lot of boats as well. Most peoples spares are sorely lacking. I have three different sizes of Clamp tite tools I've had for years. Nothing beats the proper clamp, but in a pinch the perfect clamp is 100 miles away on a Sunday when the store is closed.

Indeed. Don't let perfection be the enemy of good enough.

When you need to stop a leak due to a failed clamp there are several things that might work in a pinch. The Clamptite tool and wire is quite good and contrary to what has been said in this thread it is a perfectly good clamp that will get you home and then a long way past that.

In a pinch, if you have nothing else, several ty-wraps can be used to form a clamp along the entire length of a fitting. Many boaters have ty-wraps on board for electrical work. Use as many as you can reasonably fit along the fitting. Usually there is room for 3-6 ty-wraps if you space the ends evenly around the hose. They can provide significant pressure and they will expand and contract slightly under heat. Don't clip the tails short. Leave enough of the tail so you can retighten the clamp occasionally. I find that even for coolant hoses several ty-wraps will last many hours. Usually it is enough to get home if you keep an eye out for new leaks.

Install a proper clamp as soon as you reach civilization.

[Knots]

Well drillers hose clamps are the strongest.My well driller defied me to break his hose clamp with 3/8 ratchet . He was right. Cheap clamps I can strip with a screwdriver. I should not refer to China.
When dropping down a deep well , the last thing you want to fail is a clamp.

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by Knots

Well drillers hose clamps are the strongest.My well driller defied me to break his hose clamp with 3/8 ratchet . He was right. Cheap clamps I can strip with a screwdriver. I should not refer to China.
When dropping down a deep well , the last thing you want to fail is a clamp.

so, for those of us who don't have well drilling friends, just what is a "well drillers clamp"?

Jim

[Knots]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

so, for those of us who don't have well drilling friends, just what is a "well drillers clamp"?

Jim

They are premium quality hose clamps.

[Shaneesprit]

When your stuck for a hose clamp on a small engine, release the pressure in the system by loosening the pressure cap and use a cable tie.
Don’t release the cap when the engine is hot unless you really know what you are doing as you might get boiling water in your face.
Bigger the hose the less likely this method is too work and it’s only to get you home not a fix. Anything over 2 inches the wire will probably be better,
On the tool and the torque it’s not great as the pressure of wire is not spread on the hose like when using a hose clip. Also it would take some skill to actually get the wire to work properly which most people don’t have, that’s the reason that clips are used. To maintain consistency.

[mf70]

Hmm, this would be a good candidate for a poll!

Originally Posted by KP44

Because a clamp is bulky, I especially like the Clamp-Tite for water hoses and dingy fuel hoses. A few wraps of tape over the stainless wire "clamp" makes a smooth and durable clamp. I have not had one fail. (But I will still not use this for hoses below waterline on the boat!)

I use the ClampTite for semi-permanent installation or where its low-profile aspect is important. I've used it for about ten years.



It does take some practice, and the ends can snag if not carefully formed..



No one, I think, is advocating using them for all clamping applications.

[skipgundlach]

Originally Posted by mf70

Hmm, this would be a good candidate for a poll!





I use the ClampTite for semi-permanent installation or where its low-profile aspect is important. I've used it for about ten years.



It does take some practice, and the ends can snag if not carefully formed..



No one, I think, is advocating using them for all clamping applications.

I have found that if you cut your ends with thought, you can taper (angle the nipper) the end such that, when you push it down into the gap between your left/right sides, it's perfectly smooth - no protrusion whatsoever...

I rather like them; I initially replaced every single hose clamp aboard with them, and any new connections also had the Clamptite treatment.

However, over time, there were some which I found, due to the environment involved, which corroded. Those I replaced with screw-band clamps, and in many cases have had to replace those (now 13 or fewer years later), depending, again, on the environment...

[rvich]

I have made a couple of DIY clamp tools for special projects, like a really small one for the oil lines on the head of a Norton motorcycle. However, last year I rebuilt my boat's diesel engine and bought myself a Clamptite tool as a gift.

You see, in removing the engine I ended up with cuts all over my wrists from reaching past the ends of hose clamps. I'm a stickler for not leaving a lot of extra clamp sticking out, but I was amazed at how scared up I was by the time I had it out of the boat. Lots of hoses, lots of clamps.

I vowed to redo the entire mess on the way in and used wire on every connection on the engine and supporting systems. It's nice, its clean and there are no sharp ends sticking out. I couldn't be happier. I left a hose clamp on the fuel line to the lift pump as sometimes it's nice to be able to remove it for diagnostics.

Do you want to use wire on your 2" though-hull cockpit drain? I dunno, I'll let you decide.

[krissteyn]

Reading thru all comments - the one glaring omission is that when you get a survey - it is highly likely this type of clamp will have to be replaced with “normal” clamps.
With a survey costing around 750 , give or take - you want to get a clean first time look-see where they don’t start looking for other problems !

[merrydolphin]

Wow. Someone said $100 too! I bought one at a boat show when they first came out. (30 yes ago?). What did I pay, $15? Have used it a lot. Often cruising in remote areas where marine stores were few and far between. Works well to this day. Only one bad downside; if you need a clamp in a real tight space, and of course that never happen on a boat, it can be difficult to impossible to use.