Electric Hotplate or Hot Plate

[jongleur]

Does anybody who uses a countertop electric
hotplate or hot plate (for search purposes)
have a recommendation? Brand and style, etc.

I did my due diligence and searched the forum
but found none. Most of the reviews on
Amazon say they are all mostly crap. They
don't heat up, they don't last, they short out,
pots on them are too tippy, and other horrors.

[hellosailor]

I can say to avoid Sunbeam like the plague. Poorly made internal connections, which can loosen themselves up, arc and short, and start a nice cozy fire. Proper connections might have cost them another nickel, literally.


There's something to be said for never leaving anything like that plugged in or turned and when you're not there to watch it.

[jongleur]

Okay. Nix on Sunbeam (although I can't find
one of them anyway).

Anybody with a positive recommendation?

[dlymn]

I use a tabletop induction hotplate. We only use it when we're hooked up to shore power, but that's because we don't have a big, on board power system. Very fast to heat up and gets very hot yet can also simmer well. It doesn't give the smooth increase in heat that gas and some straight electric units can; eg a 4 setting means full on for 40% and off for 60% of the time. When we're in port, it's all we need for meal preps. They still get hot because of the heat conducted back from the cooking pot, but cool down quickly and stop using energy when you take the pot off. We often cook at the table in the cockpit and it does a great job in all conditions. We paid 60 euros at a big electrical store in France, but that was 4 years ago.

[socaldmax]

I don't live on a boat, but I use a Nuwave Precision Induction Cooktop. It's great, you can dial in the exact temp. you want, and it will keep the pan at that temp +/- 5*F. It only heats the pan, not the surface or the air, so it's very efficient and can get the pan up to 675* on sear. It also shuts off automatically if you lift the pan off the cooktop.

It's only $100. The ability to precisely control the cooking temp. brings a whole new level to the finished product - omelets are fully cooked but not scorched, meats can be seared, frying temp. can be tightly controlled for longer oil life and perfectly fried foods, etc.

[jongleur]

The induction hot plates look nice with
their flat easy clean surfaces. I'm just
not sure my pots and pans are the right
kind of metal. Is there any way to tell?

[socaldmax]

Copper, stainless steel bottom or cast iron will work. The stainless pans will usually have "SS" somewhere on it, plus it will definitely be heavier than an aluminum pan.

[jongleur]

From Wikipedia:

" a cooking vessel must be made of, or contain, a ferromagnetic metal such as cast iron or stainless steel. However, copper, glass and aluminum vessels can be placed on a ferromagnetic interface disk which functions as a conventional hotplate."

That's cool. Maybe I can get an interface disk
if my pots don't work on the induction top.

[redhead]

Now that the warmer weather is here and we am reluctantly shutting down our Dickenson diesel stove we've been tossing around what we'll use to replace it for the summer. Thanks for doing the research for us!

[adlib2]

Originally Posted by jongleur

Does anybody who uses a countertop electric
hotplate or hot plate (for search purposes)
have a recommendation? Brand and style, etc.

I did my due diligence and searched the forum
but found none. Most of the reviews on
Amazon say they are all mostly crap. They
don't heat up, they don't last, they short out,
pots on them are too tippy, and other horrors.

Had a few different brands and they always rust out in short order and my wife throws them out. Same with toaster ovens & sandwich makers. I just use marine stove/oven now; although, microwave lasts.

[adlib2]

Originally Posted by jongleur

From Wikipedia:

" a cooking vessel must be made of, or contain, a ferromagnetic metal such as cast iron or stainless steel. However, copper, glass and aluminum vessels can be placed on a ferromagnetic interface disk which functions as a conventional hotplate."

That's cool. Maybe I can get an interface disk
if my pots don't work on the induction top.

Stainless Steel is not Ferromagnetic unless very poor quality stainless.

[socaldmax]

Originally Posted by adlib2

Stainless Steel is not Ferromagnetic unless very poor quality stainless.

There are at least 21 different grades of stainless steel, for different applications. Generally speaking, they fall into the 300 series (301 - 348) and 400 series (403 to 440c).

Each is formulated for a specific hardness or ductility, with the 400 series being harder, more prone to corrosion, and magnetic. All stainless can corrode, even the 300 series if used in a high heat environment (like exhaust system or similar.) That's why you see coated steel exhaust systems on cars, it's not a cost issue, it's a corrosion issue. While 304 may not rust through quickly, the rust stains are unsightly, so there was no advantage to using it, other than for exhaust tips, which can be polished periodically.

[PuttingDoctor]

A quick way to check your existing cookware for induction is with a magnet. If the magnet sticks you're good to go.

NuWave units are inexpensive and they offer cookware deals on their web site.

[wiekeith]

This might be slightly off-topic, but I use a diesel ceramic hotplate, which seems to eliminate many of the issues associated with electric induction hotplates, and I've always got diesel avaiable. Main downside is that it takes ten mins to warm up, but I think that's a small price to pay. Oh, and you need a skin fitting to exhaust it.Google Wallas 85 Dt for more info.

[sparrowhawk1]

I use an induction hot plate through my inverter when my solar gives me extra electricity. Pots should have this symbol on them if they work with induction