Thru Hull Threads

[Blue Stocking]

Check that the inner face of the backing block, against which the nut will tighten, is at 90 degrees to the threaded stem projecting into the boat. If it isnt, it will "cock" the outer face untrue to the hull.

[osirissail]

GordMay - HopCar in Post #10 beat you to it. . . on the Tool.
- - But the Groco Installation Directions Link is good. But I question Figure 2 with the "inline valve" (free standing ball valve) as a viable installation even though it is very common. Even with "less than 1/2" between the ball valve body and the Through Hull stem backing nut there is plenty of room available for a side load to bend or shear off the through hull threads. In this type installation the through-hull stem (threaded part) must assume the whole load of any perpendicular forces/loads. As the stem (threaded part) ages and sea water "eats" at the bronze you get the classical de-zinc and thinning of the wall thickness resulting in greatly reduced strength.

[w1651]

I understand what your saying but the problem is larger then that.

The last owner needed to replace the sea cock for the galley drain. So he went to home Depot and bought a regular brass gate valve you would use for a garden hose on your house.
As we all know this will corrode from the inside out. The brass is cheap and the gate valve is not stainless. He then used the old nipple to attach the hose to which was also wore out.
So now I have a valve through the bottom of my boat that is a time bomb for a huge leak just waiting to happen that I need to repair. I can plug it at both ends and replace the thru hull later or I plug it and replace the valve until haul out next year. Either way I need a valve for my own sense of ease.
He also used them for the head which I have to replace but I have them blocked off for now. Does 5200 dry under water?

[osirissail]

To the last question - No.
- - I would suggest getting down close and personal with the through hull stem (threaded part) and cleaning it as others have suggested. Then using magnifiers examine the metal very carefully to see if it is de-zinc'd. If it is then plug the through hull from the outside and wait until you can haul the boat or maybe "careen" the boat and go ahead and replace the through-hull and seacock or ball valve.
- - If the threads look decent and good bronze then again you need to plug the through hull from outside. And then use a strap wrench or chain vise grips to firmly grab the stem (threaded portion inside the hull) to keep it from moving/rotating. Then back off the bad valve and replace it. PBblaster might help in getting the old valve to back off the through hull stem.
- - But this maneuver is very dangerous while the boat is in the water especially if there is a lot of "green" junk on the through hull stem. Which is why I suggested being sure there is no more than a few inches of water between your keel and the sea bottom. I would even consider running the boat aground at a dock and lashing it to the dock (so long as the dock is not a floating dock).

[GordMay]

I’ve found that 5200 will cure underwater, once filmed; but you must apply it above water for proper adhesion, and allow much longer time to cure after it's in the water.

5200 is a moisture cure polyurethane, suitable for use (not application) underwater.

Notwithstanding, 3M is silent about submerging it, prior to full cure.

➥ http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawe...ant%205200.pdf

[Boracay]

I know its expensive, but surely you should be doing an out of water repair here as soon as possible.

I used New Zealand made survey approved plastic through hulls and ball valves and have no complaints so far. The only gripe I've heard about the plastic ones is that the the ball valves need to be worked and lubricated from time to time.

But for your own peace of mind do it right as soon as possible. Your insurance company may not be understanding if you let it go.

[w1651]

Originally Posted by Boracay

I know its expensive, but surely you should be doing an out of water repair here as soon as possible.

I used New Zealand made survey approved plastic through hulls and ball valves and have no complaints so far. The only gripe I've heard about the plastic ones is that the the ball valves need to be worked and lubricated from time to time.

But for your own peace of mind do it right as soon as possible. Your insurance company may not be understanding if you let it go.

I will Boracay but right now I just want to get them to stop dripping. I am thinking about replacing them and reusing them but bedding them correctly when I haul it out.

[sabray]

This sounds like imminent disaster or perhaps a nice fix. I lost track between the neck snapping and ballcocks failing. In think a picture of the condition could help the experienced folk who have responded answer.seems like a prudent easy option bunches of ways of getting the thru hull fitting out once not in the water. I have grabbed the surface area with mango pipe wrench wedged steel into the sides used a multi tool which is onboard to catch the ears and cut them like a cuttless bearing to remove . But your leaking now and sounds like you don't intend to haul. So give us a picture. I'm leaning tword haul now fix now but not sure what your up against

[w1651]

Your right! I will get pics soon I promise...

[w1651]

Okay I hope this works. Here are pics I uploaded to Flickr...


This is a pic of the Thru hulls for the cock pit drain on the right and the galley sink sea cock that's seeping and drippin



Here is a pic of the thru hull in th e head. The inlet looks the same and the insides are completely gone and wont close..



Here's another of the galley sink drains thru hull and sea cock. Notice the hole in the hull above it.

If that doesn't work here is the link

100_1109_00 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

[osirissail]

Pics came through fine - but only trying to solve your immediate concern with a "dripping" gate valve - is the drip coming from the stem of the gate valve? If so, there is a compression nut just under the handle that squeezes the valve stem to stop drips.
- - If that is not possible then the whole gate valve, stem and handle can be removed from the valve body and replaced with a new one from a similar valve.
- - Only major problem I see is getting enough force on the valve to disassemble it without breaking the whole system free from the through hull stem.
- - All in all, I would suggest by the time you get finished replacing all those bad, wrong kind, valves you will be quite well versed on marine plumbing.
- - Welcome to the wonderful world of old boat refitting . . .

[HopCar]

Those look pretty bad. You should get rid of those gate valves as soon as possible.
Groco has a price increase set to go into effect on Sept. 1, so now might be a good time to buy your new seacocks.
I would really appreciate it if you would look at my prices on seacocks.
Seacocks by Groco and Apollo Conbraco

[delmarrey]

I'm willing to bet those aren't even bronze valves.

[sabray]

So it's a gate valve on through hull. When you say neck got broken is this the part where the hose attaches. Or the part where the handle and stem are. if this were home spot stuff the Threads are nps or tapered most thru hulls are straight thread. Yours would be as there is a setting nut.If your really set unable to haul and put some good gear on then here is an idea. I'll get blasted for this plug the thru hull from outside. An expandable plug and a tarp like a crash mat over the works then you remove the piece of crap put the right fitting on. Buy one you want for the next 20 years. In a year you take it off and install it nice and proper with new hose 2 hose clamps etch maybe new blocking. Maybe you get the yard to let you do it while in the travel lift bay even better let them drop the slings around you. Now your so close to getting hauled you might just ask them to lift you then again if they know what your about they may just give you a boot. Really not good I did this once but I have a background in boatbuilding even with that it's a bit out on the edge. Right thing is to haul and clean this all up.

[w1651]

The valve in question is leaking where the galley hose connected to the top of the sea cock.The nipple broke when I was pulling the heads off the engine. I really didn't hit it that hard to break it. Now it seeps past the gate and up and out through where the broken nipple is. Maybe I should just try to change the nipple right now.