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**GordMay** · 07-06-2004, 02:56

ROPE to CHAIN CONNECTIONS:

There are a variety of ways to connect a Nylon Rope Rode to an Anchor Chain:

1. THIMBLED EYE-SPLICE
In most cases, this is accomplished using an eye splice around a thimble on the line, and a galvanized anchor shackle. This arrangement is strong and protects the line from chafe where it joins the anchor chain.
Unfortunately, it is difficult to pull using an anchor windlass, since the thimble/shackle cannot be pulled using the capstan or gypsy of the windlass. In most cases, the anchor rode will have to be temporarily made fast while the anchor rode is moved from the capstan to the gypsy. This can be hazardous, and overrides are common.
The other problem is that it is difficult to pass an eye and thimble below decks, unless a large chain pipe is used. It is virtually impossible to construct a self-tailing/self-stowing windlass system when using a thimble and shackle.

2. DIRECT EYE-SPLICE
Instructions @ http://www.neropes.com/splice/sp72_3...d_to_chain.htm

Many Windlass and Rope Manufacturers recommend a rope to chain eye-splice, consisting of a relatively common eye splice through the last link of chain. The line is seized about 12" from the end, the strands are parted, and two strands are passed in one direction through the link, while one strand is passed in the other direction. The strands are then spliced using normal technique. Various tapering methods can be used, but Simpson Lawrence recommends three full tucks, then two additional tucks made with half-diameter strands. This makes a compact, rapidly tapered splice, that retains about 75 - 85% of the rope’s original stength.

3. PLAITED EYE-SPLICE
Instructions @ http://www.bluemoment.com/warpchainsplice.html

1. From the end of the rope count twelve turns down the lay and mark the twelfth.
2. Make a constrictor knot with the waxed sail twine just after the mark and separate the stands up to the constrictor knot
3. Insert the first strand (blue) into the first chain link
4. Insert the second strand (red) into the first chain link from the opposite side of the first strand. Draw up the two strands tightly to keep the constrictor knot snugly against the first chain link.
5. Insert the third strand (white) into the second chain link
6. Insert the first strand (blue) into the second chain link from the opposite side of the third strand.
7. Insert the second strand (red) into the third chain link.
8. Insert the third strand (white) into the third chain link, from the opposite side of the second strand. Draw each strand up tightly at each pass and continue on the same way until you reach the end of all the strands and finish whith a small constrictor knot on the sixth link). Seal the end of each strand with the hot knife.

I've never used this "plaited" eye-splice, and wonder about it's efficacy.

Does anyone have any significant experience using , or know of any tests or reports, about the “Plaited” Rope-Chain Splice ?

Any other advice, recommendations, experiences, references, or comments etc...?

Thanks & Regards,
Gord

Sonosailor · 07-06-2004, 07:29

I cannot imagine getting the end into a "small constrictor knot", and I am not sure what the constrictor knot is supposed to do. Does it stopper the rope on the sixth link? I'd rather try to sew the ends together than try to get three knots there. I'll have to try it, though.

delmarrey · 07-06-2004, 20:35

I use the direct eye-splice but with a little larger eye and the rode lined with a piece of leather as the thimble.

I like the looks of the plaited-eye splice. It looks like it would run threw a chain windless with less damage to the rode (more surface area). I may just give it try.
.................................................. .............._/)

**Alan Wheeler** · 08-06-2004, 15:41

I used to do a similar splice throught three links and then back up on it's self.
Here is a site that maybe of interest. A guy I know has just won second in the world position in Knot work.
Wheels

**Alan Wheeler** · 08-06-2004, 15:42

oops, Now here is the site. www.igkt.net
Wheels

**GordMay** · 09-06-2004, 00:25

Does the IGKT show the 3-Link & Back splice on their website? I couldn't find it.
Tks
Gord

**Alan Wheeler** · 17-06-2004, 13:47

No sorry Gord, your chasing a "red hearing" there. I just thought the site maybe of interest. I should have said it didn't have any practicle articles.
Here is a site of interest though, with lots of very good examples. It does have a rope to chain splice example, but they only use a single chain link. The site is excellent though.
www.neropes.com/splice/
Wheels

Talbot · 10-08-2004, 11:22

My original 3 strand nylon was attached to the chain by a shackle connected through a hard eye on the rope. This was always getting caught when weighing the anchor. I also dont really like 3 strand for a anchor rope, and much prefer multiplait (or octoplait) This can be spliced to chain to produce a much smoother running splice.

I dislike the direct splice through the final chain link, as I distrust the strength of this. I would expect chafe to quickly reduce its strength

**GordMay** · 07-09-2004, 02:37

Thanks to Jim Seamans from SailboatOwners “Ask All Sailors” forum for this advice:

”... One of the suggestions was to interleave the three strand nylon into the chain as per this web site.
http://www.bluemoment.com/warpchainsplice.html

News is this will NOT work with a windlass. I tried it this weekend as I was putting on new chain and line. After about the 6th pass thru the windlass the splice started coming apart. The stretch and pull of the line caused the chaing to bind in the windlass and the line was getting chewed up. Well back to the other splice ..”

Also from “Ask All Sailors” comes this elegant product:
Bridle Plate Mooring System:
http://www.colligoengineering.com/bridal_plate.htm
http://www.colligoengineering.com/newpage11.htm

Talbot · 07-09-2004, 04:13

I dont really like any of the 3 strand to chain splices, but that doesnt reall matter cause I also dont like 3 strand as the anchor line. Octoplait is
Much easier to splice to chain
better on the pass through the windlass
and
vastly superior to handle and stow.
.

BTW I actually dont like passing the rope through a combined gypsy anyway, cause it will still chafe, much better to have a drum on top of the windlass, and a chain stopper so that when you have heaved the rope on the drum, it is easy to transfer to the gypsy

delmarrey · 08-09-2004, 18:19

It looks like good stuff, but I don't think I've ever seen it here in the U S of A..........._/)

Talbot · 09-09-2004, 04:11

great benefit of octoplait is how flexible it is, and how easy to coil down without kinking. Another important benefit is that when it is under load, it does not try to unravel like a 3 strand does, thus if the weight comes off suddenly you dont get those kinks which must be removed cause they weaken the 3 strand immensely. It is also very easy to splice onto chain, and the resultant splice does not greatly increase the overall diameter of the cable (looks good as well)

You can get double braid (or called braid-on-braid) made from nylon, it would be tough enough for anchor cable, but would be a right ***** to splice onto the chain.

delmarrey · 09-09-2004, 18:26

The 3-strand likes to twist as well when pitching over waves.

Probably no need for a swivel with the Octoplait???

Talbot · 10-09-2004, 10:40

Again, I personally dont like a swivel anyway cause that can be a weak point in the anchor cable (most part at the swivel if one is fitted) Octoplait doesnt need a swivel for anchoring through a couple of tides. Long term anchoring is a different matter as the number of turns can add up , of course if you have an electric windlass, you can just hoick up the anchor and re-lay it with all those turns removed!