Let's take this in sections:
Red square - stepping over the coaming and a step or two forward. That is a particularly vulnerable point. Quite a few MOB's happen there if the boat lurches while you are on one foot stepping over. And pretty much no workable jackline tether system will absolutely keep you on board there as you are right on the edge of the boat. So, in this area #1 work on stable movement - keep your center of gravity low, place your feet carefully, move carefully. #2 hand grips along back/top edge of dodger and on side of dodger. #3 if the dodger framing is strong enough, you can set up a very very short tether system along its upper side edges, and use a very very short tether (sized just enough to allow you to move in a crouched position along there and no longer).
Orange square - you have some decent looking handgrips there. #1 Double check that the teak
in the grips had not rotted/weakened (have your BF give them an all mighty hard jerk - tell him to TRY to break them - tell him you might have a very special treat for him if he does manage to break them
) #2 Then use them - always always have a firm grip with one hand there. In fact, really, when you move on the boat, you should always have a death grip with one hand on something - it is a design flaw if there are spaces where that is not possible. #3 here you can set up a jack line inboard somewhat - there would be a debate about where exactly, from possibly one along the centerline to the mast, to along the cabin
house top edge to that foredeck fitting - both would be way better than the traditional side deck jackline. I would pick whatever layout you feel you are most likely to actually use - no point in setting something up if it is not convenient and after a day or two you stop using it. This area is typically NOT a high risk area - you have hand grips and you can focus on really stable walking position or even crawl if you feel unstable.
Green square - another high risk area - you are often working with one or both hands and if the boat lurches you may not have anything to grab. So #1 kneel or sit when you are working if you feel AT ALL unstable. #2 you need specific clip points at the mast and a short tether which just allows you to do what work needs to be done and no longer. These clip points can be dyneema
loops around the mast or threaded into strong mast base hardware
(those are real easy and inexpensive to add); or a bit more work, dedicated payeyes (perhaps again with dyneema
loops on them to avoid tether clip pinch) to clip to. #3 There is a school
of thought promolgated by a couple very experienced offshore
people (the Neils and Pardey's) that you should have a line run from say the aft pushpit - to the shrouds secured there at upper chest level, and then back down to the bow pulpit; which gives you something to grip high enough (above trip level) it could hold you on deck - I'v never used that system and can't comment on its effectiveness but might be working rigging
up and trying out (its easy and cheap
to rig up) if after all this discussion you still feel then need for a little more.
Blue square - usually a medium risk area. Question - do you need to open that hatch
at sea? Do you stow sails
or needed sailing gear
down there? Or is it essential for ventilation? If not the jackline should really run on the center line over that hatch
to the mast. If you do need that hatch then run jacklines just left and right of it - looks like they might run right top the dodger corners which would line up with the oragnge square need. That hatch surface can be very slippery when wet - I would put some non-slip tape or paint
in stripes on it. There are no handgrips up here, which is unfortunate. Do you have an inner stay which sets up in there? I know it makes tacking more difficult, but if you have one I would set it up when going offshore
at it gives you a hand grip in the middle of that big empty area (and you dont tack all that often offshore). Do you use a pole? That is one of the big risks on the foredeck - either being hit by it, or it swinging and getting you off balance. There are some really nice and sound procedures for handling a pole shorthanded which absolutely minimize this - which if you use a pole we should discuss (perhaps separate topic).