Emergency underwater hull repair!!!

[Vicenc]

Please find attached an aluminium hull repair case study using DrSails

Best,
Vicenç

[Capt Phil]

Years ago when driving a rowboat at night in the PNW, we hit a deadhead(commonly known as a 'widow maker' in those parts). I was a lowly decks and it fell to me and the mate to slow the leak enough to make it to port which was about 1 1/2 days away.
We passed a couple of lines under the bow and flossed them astern then tied 2 corners of a large piece of canvas to the lines and pulled it under the boat over the hole. While it didn't stop the leak it enabled us to get to port under much reduced speed and the pumps were able to keep up the whole way. The sprung planks were in a location near the deadwood and almost impossible to reach from inboard the vessel.
Not the most effective repair but it got us back without losing the boat! Phil
I had forgotten about that adventure until I read this post...

[DeepFrz]

I guess you meant "towboat" not "rowboat"?

[Doug Brown]

I have used a pillow and a broomstick to plug the hole left when a 3" propshaft broke at the coupling and the entire shaft slid out of the boat. Initially we were taking on an easy 100-gals a minute, but once plugged we where at about a pint a minute. This was on a 125-ft crewboat, and once the hole was plugged we still off loaded the cargo and ran the 50-miles back to base in the Gulf of Mexico.

I have used sawdust taken underwater in a plastic bag and released into leaking planking on wooden boats after they have gone back in the water from a dry docking.
The sawdust is sucked into the leaking planking and swells in place. It takes about 5-minutes to stop +95% of the leak.

I have used 8-oz Sail Repair Tape on the bottom of inflatable dingys to seal holes. It lasted over 2-years before we got around to putting on a proper Avon repair patch. I think it would work very well as an emergency "bandaid" on a hull fracture/crack or even a smallish hole and stop the water inflow on a wood, fiberglass, steel or aluminum hull until you could make up a fabric/5200 patch. NOTE: You have to put the patch on from the outside of the hole where the water pressure will help press the fabric into the damaged area. It won't hold if applied inside the boat - the water pressure will blow it off. Sail tape is very tough and flexible.

I've never tried it, but I would think that you could use the foam rubber out of your cushions/mattress and shove it in the crack/small hole from the inside to slow the flow of water down.

All you are trying to do is slow down/reduce the massive inflow of water so you can buy enough time to make a more permanent repair.

We had a "mast head in the water" knockdown once far offshore and had lots of water come in - 300+ gallons. The cockpit was brim full as were the cockpit lockers from the water entering the cockpit lids joints.

First thing I did was start the engine while we still could to provide power to the batteries, then turned on both Rule 3600 pumps (each rated at 60-gpm) and all the interior lights, then had the wife start pumping with the below deck Whale Titan 1.5" pump. I was able to look around for other damage and luckily we had no hull/rudder damage. It took about 5 to 10-minutes to get all the water out.

Big pumps are always a very important thing to have during these scary times!

[tropicalescape]

Originally Posted by jordiebsocal

I have been looking around and haven't been able to locate and emergency repair kits for minor/moderate hull fractures due to collision with a deadhead/submerged obstructions. I know, I know.... I'm going to get all sorts of threads about better charts, and minding my GPS, not traveling that close to potential obstacles, and the list goes on... All that aside, and I still ACCIDENTALLY hit something and am taking on "manageable" water. Obviously if the hull has been compromised, there is no saving the vessel, and it is going down; an immediate plan to abandon ship would be in order... But let's just say that you could make it safe for crew (standing by in a life-raft), assess the situation, and with a mask and snorkel, found a moderate (repairable?) crack in the hull/keel area ... Are there any putties or compounds that can be applied (from) and cure underwater? Just to limp into the next port with a haul out and a proper fix...

Thanks in advance for any recommendations, warnings, funny idioms, accounts of success, tales of defeat, and everything else in between!!

JB Weld : A product that is a thick putty ,white in color and works great for under water repairs..I have a kit on my boat that has several wood plugs that look like a megaphone..Not sure about the species of wood but it is soft and will swell when wet,about seven inchs long ,just shove it in the hole until the taper wont allow it to go farther thank god I never had to use one but am glad I have them..good luck with your repairs..

[vtsailguy]

A few thoughts that I don't think have been mentioned.

1. There is a clear caulk called "Flex". It seems to be the only one I know of that's is adhesive underwater.
2. You needsomething to plug from the inside. In the Newport Bermuda race, the most popular was. Two dollar foam nerf football.
3. The big kahuna of patching is roofing bitumen. It comes in large and small rolls, and the stuff sticks like crazy. Cut a big sheet and slap it over.

I took these three plus a west marine fiberglass repair kit on my travels.

While we are on emergency stuff, take a battery angle grinder. THE best way to cut through stays if dismasted.

[esarratt]

Originally Posted by atoll

with impact damage on wood or fiberglass where you have a plank stove in or punture and delamination on a glass boat the best and quickist solution might be to use quick drying cement applied from both inside and out side,available in 5,10,25 kilo bags,goes off in about 15 minutes.
i used it when salvaging a ferro cement boat,then sailed it 4000 miles!

Actually the cat's meow would be "hydraulic cement". The stuff at big blue or big orange to buy is Drylok Fast Plug Hydraulic Cement or Quickrete Hydraulic Water-Stop Cement. The professional grade stuff to use would be Masterseal 590 (formerly Waterplug). They go off in 30 seconds and set in 3-5 minutes. Coupled with some boards and 3M 5200 you've got yourself a nice boat repair kit.

[tropicalescape]

A few weeks back I was with a friend and the thru-hull hose broke in a water tight out board engine compartment, allowing water to flow into the compartment..My friend suggested that I warp some weather stripping around a small stick and plug the hole with it..It worked great..

[jamhass]

Add to seaworthyLass's post as well as to several others:

Whatever "caul" you use on the outside of the hull, you can smear the mating surface with "whatever" semi-solid you have available. 3M 4200, 5200, even RTV are examples that cure underwater. Beeswax toilet rings (remove the plastic liners) do a great job of sealing, and are a wonderful way to shore up leaking shaft seals, etc.

[Vicenc]

While 3M claims that 4200 and 5200 cure underwater, nobody uses them for such repairs. First, those products are polyurethane-based adhesives that cure with humidity, absorbing water and swelling while they cure underwater. Besides, their curing time is 24h, making those products unsuitable to perform emergency repairs.

[dilligaf]

Working as a commercial diver for over 40 years, splash Zone works great! Cures underwater and sets within 30 minutes. You must stop huge amounts of water but then adding splash zone OUTSIDE will seal it. It takes a grinder to get it off. Hopefully you never need the lash up!

[CarlF]

Stay afloat - Defender carries it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=888wQhRcmjQ

[cal40john]

Doesn't that product come from people recommending that you carry toilet bowl wax rings?

Just like Forespar now makes a foam hull plug after people started saying to carry a few different Nerf toys. I think I even saw a Coast Guard video promoting carrying Nerf toys.

Marketing and up pricing for the marine market.

Originally Posted by CarlF

Stay afloat - Defender carries it.

[Jacknast]

that stuff looks like super viscous petroleum goo.

thanks

[jmiller148]

I'm with Cal... Looks just like a toilet wax seal. The consistency looks to be spot on too.