Windlass tripping more than it should?

[Smokeys Kitchen]

Originally Posted by singlespeed

Before you pull the whole windlass, try new lubrication. It's surprising how much drag old oil or grease creates. Far too many owners fail to follow the basic maintenance listed in the owner's manual on boat components that are not easily accessible. Unfortunately "out of sight - out of mind" is a normal trait, so up-to-date maintenance logs and timelines are a plus when buying a boat.

This.

Make sure the windlass is completely cleaned and lubed. We serviced our windlass and even with a new motor/gearbox combo, you could tell the difference right away.

[Bullshooter]

“ - remove what I can from the motor (hopefully remembering where it all goes)”

May I recommend snapping a few pics as you disassemble things to help you put it all back together.

It could help reduce the number of swear words, and possibly the volume.

[Kenpimentel]

Update: Windlass fixed!

Quick Antares 1000W (circa 2008):
Just wanted to share some info if others are struggling with their windlass. I went to try my windlass after six months and it wouldn't budget in one direction and barely moved in the other. I knew my problem had escalated from my earlier problems.

Once I had fully removed the windlass from the foredeck, I discovered that the bearings and seals were long gone (as in fully decomposed) on the shaft. I also noticed a rusty red fluid leaking from the sealed transmission. I assumed that was toast.

I went into my local shop, and after discussing getting a whole new windlass/motor, we settled on just replacing the transmission and they would press new bearings/seals on my shaft. They would get the bearings/seals locally (automotive shop).

They wondered if I would need a new motor too, but I argued it should be fine (without testing) because I felt the transmission was just jammed up.

Reassembling the new transmission (from a Quick DC3 - the replacement to the Antares), I wired up the motor to make sure everything worked before I reassembled (it being a royal b&tch). This is when I learned the motor only worked in one direction.

After replacing the motor (at which point it would have been cheaper to buy a new complete windlass), I reassembled the windlass and everything worked as it should.

For future reference, the brand new Quick 1000W windlass pulled the following amps on my all-chain rode and 25kg anchor.

Notes: Motor running and plugged into shore power, worst drawdown was -10A on my house bank monitor (the engine and the charger were making up most of the drawdown).

I also used my current clamp meter on the wire going to my windlass breaker. Readings:

down:
peak: 120A
typical: 60A

up:
peak 150A
typical: 90A

Originally, when I noticed problems with the windlass, I was getting:

Lowering:
156A max, 90A constant

Raising:
159A max, 100A constant

Specs on Quick Antares 1000W windlass:
- working load is 120 kg (for 15m @2.29kg/meter = 35kg, 20.5kg anchor)
- current absorption is 140A at working load
- minimum fuse is 80A for less than 20m of travel