Windlass Remote at Helm

[Lancerbye]

Originally Posted by Minggat

I asked a few post ago and got no repsonse. So I'm asking again. I've done some searches and didn't get an answer.

How does one take a garage door opener and adapt it to a windlass? I know there are wireless remotes for windlasses on the market, but if I can take my unused garage door opener and adapt it...

The final output of a garage door opening and closing system is a receiver which activates raise and lower relays. You can use these to activate heavier relays or solenoid relays to operate your winch. Just hope no one has the same frequency at an anchorage. I have used these components for several remote applications. They are usually 12volt based.

[conachair]

Originally Posted by Minggat

I asked a few post ago and got no repsonse. So I'm asking again. I've done some searches and didn't get an answer.

How does one take a garage door opener and adapt it to a windlass? I know there are wireless remotes for windlasses on the market, but if I can take my unused garage door opener and adapt it...

I used one of these - Two Channel Wireless Remote Control Kit Free Delivery : RF Modules : Maplin

basically it's 2 x on/off switches, connect it in parallel with the foot switches

[conachair]

Originally Posted by Lancerbye

Just hope no one has the same frequency at an anchorage.

Though the range is limited, turn off the breaker to the windlass when the hooks stuck in & all should be well.
To be honest, it's not perfect, I have a steel boat and you do need to move the remote around a bit sometimes to find a place where it works, not sure if the marine options have the same limitations. But at 10% of the cost i can live with it.

[Minggat]

Originally Posted by John A

All remote controls transmit their own unique wave length (frequency) to a unique receiver.

All you need do is find a receiver to match your garage door opener.

Thank you John for that simple answer. I'm afraid it's still going over my head.

I assume by "receiver" that you are refering to the radio receiver in the garage door opener mechanism, the part that responds when you push the button on the radio signal transmitting remote. And when you say to match the garage door opener... you've got to be talking about... the language says the same thing.... So I'm still confused.

Some clarity please. I know you understand, so you're speaking in basics. If you can take it back a few steps I'm pretty sure I will understand too.

I have a garage door opener that I'm not using. Remote and chain drive unit. What do I need, where do I start in getting the bits out of it to hook up to my windlass solenoids?

I could start by tearing it apart and just looking at what's inside. But I'd rather get an idea of what's involved first.

[Lancerbye]

Originally Posted by conachair

I used one of these - Two Channel Wireless Remote Control Kit Free Delivery : RF Modules : Maplin

basically it's 2 x on/off switches, connect it in parallel with the foot switches

Check the current specs on these. I would not put them in parallel with foot switches . Those are normally built to take full windlass current. Use it to control solenoid switches which can be connected across the foot switches.

[Minggat]

Thanks for that. Looks much easier than destroying a garage door opener.

[John A]

Originally Posted by Lancerbye

Check the current specs on these. I would not put them in parallel with foot switches . Those are normally built to take full windlass current. Use it to control solenoid switches which can be connected across the foot switches.

On my 1500 Lighthouse electric windless the footswitch and the remote switch were both small guage wires wich activated solenoids that closed a connection for battery cable sized cables to activate the windless.
Any remote control would need to share the function of the footswitch.

Is it really to much work to activate a foot switch? What's next, remote control for the self tailing primaty winch? One remote contrl for each winch.

[Minggat]

Originally Posted by conachair

To be honest, it's not perfect, I have a steel boat ...

No steel boat here, so not a concern.

I wouldn't worry about the same frequency issue too much. It's been Ok protecting things in my garage in a world of push button remotes. But the idea of expaining why my boat drifed into another boat because of it would make a good situation comedy scene.

The whole idea of a remote did not set well with me because I have been snagged by... a snag. OK, I assumed... But "it's not perfect" has special meaning to me.

I pulled up the hook one time on my way out of an anchorage. When I saw this huge clump of black weeds on my "anchor" I took my foot off of the switch and ran to the helm because I knew that I had broken free and would be drifting of course. On the way out of the anchorage the boats stopped dead... quick.

I had snagged a shallow spot with my hook. The huge clump of black weeds was just that. My rode was another 30 ft out. I knew that, but assumed that I was wrong in my calculation of how much I had out. That was in spite of my colored markers on the chain. duh.

The clump had to be cut off. A friend got in his dink to do it. It was not going to go thru my bow roller.

So a remote at the helm sounded like a bad idea. In truth, the problem was operator error of course. But a wireless remote got my attention.

I could still ASSUME and get in trouble again, anytime I want.

[roverhi]

I had a problem quite like Jim Cate described. Anchored to the side of the river/fairway across from the Former Mare Island Naval Yard. 15k gusting to 20k wind blowing directly across the water and into the bulkhead for marina on the other side. Had to drop my hook as far off the center of the channel to keep the CG off my back for obstructing the channel. Got up in the morning to find myself 50' off the bulkhead while the wind had increased to 20k gusting 30k. The wind increased during the day and with a forecast to decrease slightly during the night/early morning and back up the next day. Forecast for no significant change for the next week or so. I hauled in a bit of chain but realized I would have almost no time to react before the boat rammed the bulhead stern first once the anchor broke free. So I hung out for another day. Unfortunately, had a plane to catch so so decided to leave early the next anchorage. Finally figured out to use the autopilot with the engine turning over just enough to keep steerage as the boat moved toward the anchor. Ran up to the bow and hauled in the anchor till it broke free. Left the anchor dangling on about 20' of chain and powered back down the channel and turned stbd into the channel out to the Bay. Once I was sure that the Autopilot would hold the bow into the wind heading out into the Bay, I went forward and hauled in the rest of the chain and anchor. About the only good thing about the situation was most of the mud got washed off the anchor as I powered down the channel. Don't know what I'd have done without the Auto Pilot.

Bought a remote for the windlass as soon as I got back to the slip.

[flysci]

Originally Posted by John A

Is it really to much work to activate a foot switch? What's next, remote control for the self tailing primaty winch? One remote contrl for each winch.

You're right! There's one advertised in the January water sailing">Blue Water Sailing. From Harken: The Rewind. "...you can trim in and ease out remotely without going to the winch and unwrapping the sheet."

As a single hander, I love having an up down switch in the cockpit. Gives me many more options for handling different anchoring situations.

Margo

[conachair]

Originally Posted by Lancerbye

Check the current specs on these. I would not put them in parallel with foot switches . Those are normally built to take full windlass current. Use it to control solenoid switches which can be connected across the foot switches.

Lofranns has a seperate solenoid, the footswitches control this, not the full load.

[conachair]

Originally Posted by John A

Is it really to much work to activate a foot switch?

Not too much work at all. But neither is fitting a cheap garage door remote.

Then you have the choice. You don't have to use it but might find it more handy being able to be right up but the bow to clean the chain or being at the helm to push head to wind again.

[svBeBe]

We have an anchor windlass control at the helm and love the convenience. Also have a magnetic sensor chain counter at the helm that we love even more. We always know exactly how much chain is out, not guessing based on chain markings that might or might not still be visible. And to complete the set-up, add the saltwater chain wash that is also activated from the helm and weighing anchor is a pure breeze.

Judy
S/V BeBe

[daddle]

I still consider a windlass remote a poor idea. I'd much rather have helm control at the bow: rudder, shift and fuel. That would be useful, and safe, in many situations.

[Minggat]

Originally Posted by daddle

I still consider a windlass remote a poor idea. I'd much rather have helm control at the bow: rudder, shift and fuel. That would be useful, and safe, in many situations.

I fully agree. But some things are only just so workable.

So would you put a tiller or a wheel on your forepeak?

Maybe it would just be easier to mount the windlass on the stern. Then having a helm mounted remote would be a given.