Why Are Next-Gen Anchors Considered 'Better' ?

[Liam Wald]

The Chinese are excellent artisans and craftsmen. They will construct anything exactly as is specified by the contractor. If you specify cheap junk, they will build cheap junk. If you specify very high quality, they will produce very high quality.
The idea that Cinese are not capable of producing quality is simply not true. The fault is in the retailers who specify poor quality to maximize profit margin.

[GordMay]

Further to post #270:

ASTM A780-01 (American Standard Testing Method)

➥ ASTM A780 / A780M -09 Standard Practice for Repair of Damaged and Uncoated Areas of Hot-Dip...

Standard Practice for Repair of Damaged and Uncoated Areas of Hot-Dip Galvanized Coatings

4.2.2 Paints containing zinc rich dust - These are usually based on organic binders, pre-mixed and formulated specifically for use on steel surfaces. Paints containing zinc dust, with concentrations of zinc dust in the range of 65-69% or above 92% in the dried film, are considered equally effective for the repair of damaged galvanized coatings. The repair paint to be used shall be selected by the galvanizer, unless the purchaser specifies a particular concentration or paint system. Corrosion resistance and service performance are very dependant on the properties of the paint system, the extent of the surface preparation, and skills of individual applicators. Galv-Match-Plus™ meets this specification without exceeding it. Corrosion resistance and service performance are very dependent on the properties of the paint system, the extent of surface preparation, and skills of individual applicators.

ANNEXES

A2. REPAIR USING ZINC-RICH PAINTS

A2.1 Preparation of the damaged surface will be influenced by the type of paint selected and the anticipated service conditions. Experience shows that in general organic zinc-rich systems are more tolerant of surface preparation. Most organic zinc-rich paints containing zinc dust are not critical of climatic or atmospheric conditions for curing. Galv-Match-Plus & Prime-Zinc-Plus™ are organic zinc compounds.

A2.1.1 Surfaces to be reconditioned with zinc-rich paint shall be clean, dry, and free of oil, grease, and corrosion products.

A2.1.2 Where anticipated, field service conditions include immersion, blast clean the surface in accordance with SSPC-SP5, white metal. For less critical field exposure conditions, blast clean the surface to near-white metal, in accordance with SSPC-SP10 (1 to 2 mil (25 to 50 (m) anchor pattern), as a minimum. Where circumstances do not allow blast cleaning, it is permissible to power disk sand areas to be repaired to bright metal. To ensure that a smooth reconditioned coating can be effected, surface preparation shall extend into the undamaged galvanized coating. The method and extent of surface preparation shall be mutually agreeable to the contracting parties.

A2.1.3 If the area to be reconditioned includes welds, first remove all flux residue and weld spatter of a size or type that cannot be removed by blast cleaning by mechanical means, that is, chipping, etc.

A2.1.4 Spray or brush-apply the zinc-rich paint (Galv-Match-Plus or Prime-Zinc-Plus™) to the prepared area. Apply the paint as recommended by the paint manufacturer in a single application employing multiple spray passes to achieve a dry film thickness to be agreed upon between the contracting parties.

A2.1.5 Take thickness measurements with either a magnetic or electromagnetic gage to ensure that the applied coating is as specified.

[Penelope]

I'm starting to get nervous here. My primary CQR is 45 pounds I was thinking of getting either a delta or Bruce as a back up. Which would bring the wieght hanging off the Bowsprit up another 40 or so pounds to around 90. So if I got rid of the CQR and bought a 60lb Manson Supreme I would be 30# ahead and be able to anchor in anything. With either a Delta or the Manson. How can I hang that Manson on the bow sprit?

[Roy M]

Why not leave the spare anchor further aft, either on deck or even in the bilge, with chain and rode attached? Keeps the bow light, you always have the spare at hand and out of the way. Or stow it in the cockpit lazarette as an "emergency brake", tossing it astern to stop you from taking out the dock when the engine fails.

[Eric ROGUE]

Originally Posted by Penelope

I'm starting to get nervous here. My primary CQR is 45 pounds I was thinking of getting either a delta or Bruce as a back up. Which would bring the wieght hanging off the Bowsprit up another 40 or so pounds to around 90. So if I got rid of the CQR and bought a 60lb Manson Supreme I would be 30# ahead and be able to anchor in anything. With either a Delta or the Manson. How can I hang that Manson on the bow sprit?

Rocna Knowledge Base has the following solution. Unknown 50' (Rocna Knowledge Base) There may be others shown as well and perhaps Manson has a similar bank of information. There are certainly other solutions that come to mind, such as mounting the retrieval/deployment roller at the deck, but keeping the roller on the sprit if that achieves better manners at anchor. That would require transferring the rode to the bowsprit roller after getting settled at anchor. Though some say it is not a good way of storing an anchor, others do hook their anchor on the bobstay to store it.

Reading through this entire thread, and other referred to threads, you might conclude: CQR not so good. Delta a bit better. Bruce much better. Rocna/Manson Supreme (much?) better than a Bruce, except in some situations.

Based upon what I have learned (see my earlier posts), if I had your situation and was unwilling to change other parts of my anchor system, I would go with a Manson Ray (Bruce type), size it to overcome any concerns I had about how it would hold in mud/loose sand, and be very happy with my decision.

[chala]

Originally Posted by Eric ROGUE

Reading through this entire thread, and other referred to threads, you might conclude: CQR not so good. Delta a bit better. Bruce much better. Rocna/Manson Supreme (much?) better than a Bruce, except in some situations.

Not at all, I have found the Manson Supreme tip, shank and roll bar flimsy.

Originally Posted by Eric ROGUE

leaving grind grooves in the metal.

Does not say much about the way it was manufactured. Imagine a Rolex with grind grooves in the metal?

[Highlander40]

Chala, If you demand the best, pay the price and get an Ultra.

I use a Spade now but if corrosion becomes an issue, the Ultra will be at the top of the list.

Come spring time, I plan to get some cold galvanizing paint and go over everything carefully looking for weaknesses.

[Extemporaneous]

There may be good value in cold galvanizing before corrosion starts.
Kind of a double protection. It could be a yearly routine?

Just a thought.

Extemp.

[Highlander40]

I wonder how fast the paint wears off. The penetrating parts would be clean very soon but areas on the shank or back part may last.

[Roy M]

It lasts as long as it lasts, then you prep and spray some more zinc paint. If you find it troublesome, get the anchor re-galvinized. Rocks grind stuff more than mud. Eventually, even the most heavily galvinized anchor will wear through. Think of zinc paint as a bandaid and re-galvinizing as plastic surgery. Nothing is permanent in material terms.

[motion30]

Originally Posted by Highlander40

I wonder how fast the paint wears off. The penetrating parts would be clean very soon but areas on the shank or back part may last.

It will last untill some rubs against it ,like the bottom then not for long

[marshmat]

I'll certainly not hold the fact that they have set up a Chinese facility against ROCNA. As Liam mentioned, most Chinese factories will build exactly what is specified by the designer, whether the specification is for near-perfection or for utter garbage. I've been involved with a couple of projects where Chinese partners ended up sending us aluminum work substantially superior to the average North American built equivalents we had been using previously.

You won't find me buying a Manson Supreme, though- I've checked out a few of these on the shelves, and was not at all impressed by the build quality (especially given the astronomical price tags). The design is a ROCNA clone and reports seem to indicate it performs comparably, but the fabrication seems to leave a lot to be desired, at least on the examples I've seen up close.

The two manufacturers use very different ways of calculating the recommended size- Rocna's charts assume 50 knots of wind, storm surge and waves appropriate to a 50 knot wind, and soft moderate holding bottoms, and depend on both length and displacement. Manson's charts provide an estimate based on boat length that appears comparable to Rocna's for relatively light boats in moderate conditions, and they recommend that the size should be one-upped for a heavier than normal vessel or one that sees serious wind and wave conditions.

For now I will stick with my little Danforth clone- it does the job, usually- and will be upgrading to a ROCNA on the next boat.

Re-galvanizing now and then is just part of owning a galvanized steel product. Zinc-rich paint will certainly help to stave off rust if the coating does get scratched up.

[chala]

Originally Posted by Highlander40

If you demand the best, pay the price and get an Ultra.

My experience is that price does not always reflect quality and I dislike mixing different steel in salt water. Stainless Steel may look great in a marina but it is prone to crevice pitting, an often hard to detect “corrosion” of SS.
I have read good reports of the Plastimo Kobra anchor and when available I may give it a try.

[Highlander40]

I have looked at the Ultra closely and has the smoothest welds I have seen. You can't fake that kind of skill.
You could go all stainless too, no mixed metals.

[chala]

Originally Posted by Highlander40

You could go all stainless too, no mixed metals.

May be if all SS involved match each other’s otherwise surprise, surprise.
To risky for me.