wearing out anchor

[seandepagnier]

In any case, thanks to all who replied, as it is interesting to know I am the only person who posted here who had this problem. It likely points to the inferior metal of that anchor more than anything else.

Originally Posted by rslifkin

Some may lack the skills or tools to recover one manually from that depth. Even more so in colder water.

I'd absolutely agree that if you can recover it, do it. If not, I'd consider buoying it to come back with more skills or tools to give it a try.

My friend has a little breathing tank about the size of a small fire extingisher that you can pump up with what looks like a bicycle pump (though the pressure is far higher) It gives up to 10 minutes? maybe its 5... anyway, long enough to free an anchor at as deep as I ever imagine anchoring. It sure was not very easy to pump up though.

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by seandepagnier

In any case, thanks to all who replied, as it is interesting to know I am the only person who posted here who had this problem. It likely points to the inferior metal of that anchor more than anything else.

My friend has a little breathing tank about the size of a small fire extingisher that you can pump up with what looks like a bicycle pump (though the pressure is far higher) It gives up to 10 minutes? maybe its 5... anyway, long enough to free an anchor at as deep as I ever imagine anchoring. It sure was not very easy to pump up though.

We are going even farther into the weird. Scuba with a 120 PSI tank and obviously, no experience or training. This has got embolism written all over it.

Just no. Not worth the discussion. Buy a new anchor.

[seandepagnier]

This hand-pump tank I believe was 2000psi (rated) but I gave up by about 600psi it was very tiring to pump up. This would at least give 2 minutes or so: a lot more than nothing would have made diving 50ft a lot easier which I'm not sure I could do anymore.

As far as scuba training... I did scuba once, a french guy had a scuba tank and we were looking for homemade tow generator impeller that broke off. He asked if I knew how I replied "you just breath through the tube and dont hold your breath swimming up?" and he agreed that I knew all that I needed to know. I did manage to find what we were looking for after 30 minutes of searching.

How long does 120 psi in a scuba tank let you breath? 2 minutes? What kind of pump do you use? I am wondering if bicycle pumps have too much oil?

[Jammer]

Originally Posted by seandepagnier

I imagine it is because of the knock-off bruce are built using inferior steel compared to most anchors, and I put it through a lot more than most users. This was a $60 anchor (with free shipping) when I got it.

This thread is a whole lot less interesting than I originally thought

[Don C L]

Originally Posted by Jammer

This thread is a whole lot less interesting than I originally thought

Sorry! We'll try to up our game here

[hpeer]

Originally Posted by seandepagnier

I imagine it is because of the knock-off bruce are built using inferior steel compared to most anchors, and I put it through a lot more than most users. This was a $60 anchor (with free shipping) when I got it.

So perhaps a better quality anchor would last much much longer. How much I have no idea, perhaps 6-10 times longer. Perhaps a hardened shackle on a soft anchor is really bad. I recall reversing the chain then discarding it twice during this time, wearing the links out until they were < 1/2 the original size at the ends of each link.

Saying this is not a problem to me is like saying an anchor doesn't need a zinc. Clearly anchors do wear out the galvanizing as do chains, and would benefit from having zincs, but still few people bother with zinc on ground tackle. It would make sense to me to use a zinc here for both wear and corrosion resistance, but need to cast a specialized shape zinc to make it work.

OF a zinc or aluminum coating.

I have occasion to use zinc rich primer epoxy on my bottom. When I do, and I have some left over, I paint my anchors with it. Good stuff.

[mako]

OP are you saying that you want to add a zinc to protect your anchor from galvanic corrosion, or add some zinc material to prevent wear of the shackle attachment hole?

[seandepagnier]

Originally Posted by mako

OP are you saying that you want to add a zinc to protect your anchor from galvanic corrosion, or add some zinc material to prevent wear of the shackle attachment hole?

either, or both at the same time if its possible. Would have to cast a custom zinc to work for this it seems. There is a bit of talk about adding a zinc to an anchor to reduce corrosion, but not a lot of information about people doing it.

Since a soft anchor metal wears out, perhaps a hardened shackle is a slight liability? Hopefully having a better quality anchor will help, but I feel like the fortress anchor (made of aluminum) is very much subject to wear here. In fact, the fortress people complained about someone using one permanently (anchored all the time) as a way to ruin it. I suppose fortress anchors are not intended for such use.

Also.. maybe because I had rusty shackles it caused more wear. it could be also essential to replace the shackle attaching to the anchor more often and ensure its galvanizing remains intact.. There are a bunch of factors I failed to control.

[Don C L]

I have never seen a zinc on an anchor. Now there is something else I have never seen! I gotta get around more.
Seriously, I don't think you'll find galvanic corrosion an issue with anchors. I think you had a case of inferior metal and/or galvanizing. I am suspicious of ANY knock-off anchors.

[hpeer]

Sean,

I had missed you were using an aluminum anchor. In that case rust is quite hard and abrasive. I would not be surprised that a steel shackle would wear it.

For example I have a Porte Boat dink, the transom is attached with 1/4”-20 bolts through some aluminum angle. It is a relatively static connection but the motor torque is transmitted through the bolts and aluminum plates. After a few years they elongated and I had to reinforce them with backers.

An aluminum Fortress under nearly constant use is, unfortunately, nearly a consumable item. Drip of water will erode a granite block, given the fullness of time.

[Lodesman]

Teflon tubing over the anchor shackle pin. Replace it every few months.

[seandepagnier]

Originally Posted by hpeer

Sean,

I had missed you were using an aluminum anchor. In that case rust is quite hard and abrasive. I would not be surprised that a steel shackle would wear it.

The anchor I "wore out" (but was able to redrill the shank extending life again) was steel.

I am now using an aluminum fortress anchor and again am concerned with corrosion and wear. So I am considering some kind of "insert" where the shackle attaches to avoid wear/corrosion to the anchor itself if it's possible.

I will ensure the shackle is at least well galvanized but, wear on aluminium is always an issue. The fortress people don't seem to consider the anchor is used continuously, but that it should be used infrequently, and washed with freshwater after each use which may not be practical.

An aluminum Fortress under nearly constant use is, unfortunately, nearly a consumable item. Drip of water will erode a granite block, given the fullness of time.

Which part is consumed first? How to extend it?

Originally Posted by Lodesman

Teflon tubing over the anchor shackle pin. Replace it every few months.

The teflon simply can't handle compression, typical values 600-3000 psi are not very much.

It seems delrin would be much more suitable here, but no way to put it on the curved part of shackle... I suppose it's possible to put the pin through the anchor. This would require two shackles to attach to chain.

[mako]

How about a piece of aluminum tubing as an insert. Replace it as needed. Costs a few pennies

[hpeer]

An aluminum Fortress under nearly constant use is, unfortunately, nearly a consumable item. Drip of water will erode a granite block, given the fullness of time.
Which part is consumed first? How to extend it?

The stock, the shackle hole. Just as you have identified.

I don’t know there is a really good answer. I think you have identified a characteristic of this anchor.

I think SPADE also makes aluminum anchors. Maybe take a look at what they say.

[Simi 60]

Originally Posted by mako

How about a piece of aluminum tubing as an insert. Replace it as needed. Costs a few pennies

Or a stainless sleeve belled over each side.
Used to do it on aluminium mast tangs to prevent S/S toggle pins from flogging the hole out.
Duralac between the two