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Old 30-11-2009, 00:40   #16
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My recomendations:

15ft of chain is too short. At least double it, and preferably 60 ft. This will be mcuh more effective at providing the confidence that you will stay in one spot!

When you set the GPS alarm, make sure that the coordinates are based on the anchor position rather than the vessel position once full anchored, otherwise it is likely that on tide change the alarm will go off!

A single anchor is better than two unless you need to restict you movement at tide change because everyone else has done the same. The crossing over of the rode will cause chafe, and could lead to real problems.

I do not like tandem anchors (one secured to the other) if the normal anchor is not good enough, get a better/bigger single anchor. (and/or more chain). In tandem anchoring, if the inner anchor starts to drag, it will create a furrow on the bottom that will make the second anchor also lose its grip. For it to have any possibility of success, the two anchors would need to have the same design characteristics so that they dig in at the same rate.
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Old 30-11-2009, 01:57   #17
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Andy went to bed and I discovered computer Mah Jongg and kept anchor watch all night, taking bearings every 15-20 minutes.
Mara thats one of the funniest things I have ever read. I just burst out laughing loudly.... and Nicolle looked at me.... I didn't give an explanation as I value my life.... She is prone to do the same, but hasnt found computer Mah Jongg yet



Anchoring does get better I like that new anchoring platform!
We just use 1 anchor and a little over 300 feet of chain
Our ratios are a bit over the top too. Where we have space, like now, we are in 4.2 meters and let out 40 meters of chain. So about 10:1.

We often let out more chain ratio in shallower depths so if it was 10 meters here we would probably only have out 50 meters of chain....


All the best at Mah Jongg....



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Old 30-11-2009, 03:34   #18
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Maybe someone wrote it already, too lazy to read all the posts but regarding anchor alarms; most new plotters have an alarm output. In some cases it's NMEA output, in some cases it's a relay output. If it's a relay you'll be able to hook it up to a siren inside the boat and you'll wake up for sure if the anchor alarm goes off. You can do it with NMEA output as well, but it requires a few special gadgets.
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Old 30-11-2009, 03:43   #19
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MarkJ I think you got it right! - 300 feet of chain is about right, I have only 150 feet of chain (backed up by 400 feet of 3/4 -3 strand nylon )and this amount of chain is not enough - Im replacing the chain next year and will go to a half barrel 275 feet - (Anyone one to split a barrel of 5.16 g 40?)

the ground tackel is likes brakes on a car- one of the most important- yet unromantic part of your vessel!

I would say get a lot more chain here and then and only then will you be able to sleep at night!
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Old 30-11-2009, 03:47   #20
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I'm on the "one anchor" school, the exception being when anchored in a reversing tidal situation.

If you feel you need two anchors, a way to solve the problem of the two rodes wrapping around themselves is to attach a snatch block to your primary rode, lead the secondary through it, and then let out enough of the primary to take the snatch block 5-10 feet under the surface. That way, even if you get some wrap, releasing the snatch block easily undoes it.
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Old 30-11-2009, 05:14   #21
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Old 01-12-2009, 11:08   #22
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Thanks - you guys are the BEST!

Thanks so much for your replies - we feel much better now!

We've decided just to stay put and ride out the weather where we are. There's no possible way we are prepared to go out in 9'-11' seas and 30+ knot winds! We've been anchored now for about 72 hours and have not moved yet, even though we've swung around in every conceivable direction with the wind and tide, so I think it's probably best just to leave well enough alone.

We are in full agreement regarding the all-chain rode! However, it's not in our budget just yet; we had to re-power and that finished off our refit budget/cruising kitty. Once we find work it'll be one of the first things we do. In the meantime we've added chafe gear and will be adding swivels here shortly.

The only reason we have out two anchors is because everyone else in the anchorage does. It's our understanding that if you're first into an anchorage then the method of anchoring is your prerogative, but coming into an existing anchorage you must anchor the way everyone else is already anchored so you all swing the same way. (Trust me, I'd rather have put out one anchor and been done with it.) Is this not right?

We have noticed that we don't sail at anchor with two anchors out, which is nice. With one anchor down she hunts about 45-60° in either direction. At some point we'll attach some kind of drogue to the rode for that.

We have a handheld GPS with an anchor drag alarm, but we're a bit confused as to how we ought to set it. We've got out about 90' of scope on each anchor right now but even if we were to set the alarm at, say, 180' we would hit a boat long before the alarm went off! I must be missing something.

Karletto, thanks for the reminder about the ignition - we hadn't thought of that. And thankfully I think we did a little better than Captain Ron (though that's not hard to do)!

Thanks again to all! You guys are confidence-boosting lifesavers!
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Old 01-12-2009, 12:24   #23
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Where we have space, like now, we are in 4.2 meters and let out 40 meters of chain. So about 10:1.
Shouldn't you include freeboard when calculating scope?
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Old 01-12-2009, 13:11   #24
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Here is an interesting calculator for the effects of nylon line/chain of various lengths as rode, etc.

Tuning an Anchor Rode

I found it helpful for evaluating my rode plans even if practice probably does vary from theory. If you really want to sleep well at night, you could put this on your reading list:

Amazon.com: The Complete Book of Anchoring and Mooring (9780870335396): Earl R. Hinz: Books

I know an all-chain rode is very popular these days, but I think the benefit of the elasticity of the nylon portion of the rode and the possibility of putting some of that extra weight in the anchor itself are good considerations, too.

Also, there are old-fashioned, budget anchor alarms that usually consist of sending a line down to the bottom with something on it (use your lead line, if you have one ) and attaching it to a pot that will fall when pulled or a bell or whatever. It will of course wake you up more often than you actually drag and you need to rig it so you don't lose your pot, etc. overboard. Might take some practice to get a perfect setup here. Still, an option for the GPS alarm-less.
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Old 01-12-2009, 17:57   #25
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Well not being a cruiser I can only give you my opinion for what it is..Local gunk-holing...I don't pay any attention to how others anchor unless its a tight shore tie scenario..in other words if we all have swing room I will anchor how I want to anchor not be "Shown" how to anchor....but if two out stops your sailing its worth it in my opinion...I like a tiny little bit of anchor sailing myself it changes the scenery and gives a better sun tan.
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Old 01-12-2009, 20:43   #26
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Andy and Mara, Be careful, not all swivels are created equal.
I do not use one for fear of creating a weak link, stay away from made in China comes to mind. Maybe someone, more knowledgeable than I on the subject, would suggest a brand or
care to address?
Great anchor platform you should be proud. Just a note of caution on your wiring to running lights... run through pulpit if possible...looks like could be exposed to/knicked by chain.
Temporary solution might be able to protect lower half by installing section of clear hose, split long ways over wire and pulpit and held with cable ties. Hope you don't mind suggestion.
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Old 01-12-2009, 22:40   #27
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Shouldn't you include freeboard when calculating scope?
Yes,, our first 10 meter mark is actually at 12 meters! Thats the distance btween the roller and the water.

Its easier to say let out 10 meters than let out 12 m. So before we were doing it we were always stuffing up!

The other thing thats good is to mark off 1 meter back from the bow roller so when the helm yells: "let out 2 more meters" it is actually 2 not 1, not 3!


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Old 02-12-2009, 00:08   #28
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Yes,, our first 10 meter mark is actually at 12 meters! Thats the distance btween the roller and the water.

Mark
Maybe I'm not understanding something here, but for 7-1 scope with a 2-meter freeboard, I calculate that you'd need to play out 14 meters of rode to compensate for the freeboard, not just 2. Am I wrong?
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Old 02-12-2009, 00:42   #29
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He is.....He meant 6 additional feet ( 2 meters ) to the first mark on the chain to compensate for the freeboard....but still calling it the 10 meter mark for reference purposes.
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Old 02-12-2009, 00:45   #30
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He is.....He meant 6 additional feet ( 2 meters ) to the first mark on the chain to compensate for the freeboard....but still calling it the 10 meter mark for reference purposes.
Read again: he calculates 2 meters, I calculate 14 meters. So who's right and why?
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