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Old 12-05-2010, 19:28   #16
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Thaks for that Evans, or Beth. I guess that back-splice is now front-runner!

This is why it is so hard to glean "the truth" (whatever that is), when there are so many versions, from respectable sources, claiming to be truth.
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Old 13-05-2010, 06:17   #17
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An eye splice with no thimble is actually weaker than the back splice. The reason is distribution of strain among strands. That is what weakens knots - tight turns - and the eye splice has a tight inner radius while the backsplice has the strands laid flat at that point. If anything, the backsplice is the simplest splice to make.

Additionally, the back splice will suffer less wear, since it will not move, while the eye splice will work a bit since it is not tight to the chain.
Thanks for the feedback. I agree that tight turns induce added stress and maybe there is some testing data to show the impact between making a back vs and eye splice? However on the eye splice that I made there is very little if no movement between the chain and the nylon. My thought was that a 3 strand rode is stronger if the 3 strands remain intact rather that being seperated out when making the back splice, but your point about the small radius is well taken.
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Old 13-05-2010, 18:03   #18
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Originally Posted by Weyalan View Post
Thaks for that Evans, or Beth. I guess that back-splice is now front-runner!

This is why it is so hard to glean "the truth" (whatever that is), when there are so many versions, from respectable sources, claiming to be truth.
There is your answer (in my emphasis) .

BTW, I had the same dilemma; the extended splice "looked and felt" right but Muir recommended the back splice. Someone at Muir (I forget who) convinced me to stick to the back splice.

You can't be far from them, call in and ask why (especially if you are using of their products).
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Old 13-05-2010, 19:16   #19
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Call them I did and, as was your experience, they recommended that back-splice. I have pretty much made up my mind that I will go with the back-splice (with apologies to Alain Hylas ).
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Old 11-10-2010, 15:47   #20
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FWIW, I did go with the back splice (suitably tapered). It seems to go through the anchor winch gypsy just fine. The exercise of raising and lowering a 45 pound anchor is much easier on my back these days
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Old 12-10-2010, 01:13   #21
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Call them I did and, as was your experience, they recommended that back-splice. I have pretty much made up my mind that I will go with the back-splice (with apologies to Alain Hylas ).
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Originally Posted by Weyalan View Post
FWIW, I did go with the back splice (suitably tapered). It seems to go through the anchor winch gypsy just fine. The exercise of raising and lowering a 45 pound anchor is much easier on my back these days
Am I right in thinking that it took about 5 months to do the back-splice - it must look really good
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Old 12-10-2010, 13:38   #22
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Am I right in thinking that it took about 5 months to do the back-splice - it must look really good
No, the back splice and whipping probably took half an hour.

The truth of the matter is that the mighty Insatiable was out of commission from December 29th (when we broke our rudder, just between the south end of Maria and the Hippolite Rocks) and between the insurance company, the naval architect and the builder, it took the best part of 7 months to get the new rudder designed, built, fitted and paid for (it is a beautiful thing, for the record).

While we were out of commission, we used the time to do various jobs, including fitting the anchor winch... which was completed around 5 months ago, but it is only in the last few weeks that we have been able to use the boat, and by extension, the winch.
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Old 12-10-2010, 13:47   #23
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For the last 35 years ,I have simply put the end of the rope thru the first chain link and tied a knot in it. When I see chafe, I pull a bit more out and tie another knot in, and cut the old one off. Never been a problem.
I do the same with rope to wire halyards.
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Old 13-10-2010, 14:08   #24
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For the last 35 years ,I have simply put the end of the rope thru the first chain link and tied a knot in it. When I see chafe, I pull a bit more out and tie another knot in, and cut the old one off. Never been a problem.
I do the same with rope to wire halyards.
What kind of windlass is that going through??

And, doesn't that limit your line diameter?
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Old 13-10-2010, 14:38   #25
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Here's my issue. My anchor rode is chain, 200'. This is fine for now but will be too short in the future. My anchor chain storage under the V-berth will not hold any more chain.

My anchor arrangement is unusual. My windlass is manual and sits below the deck in a well. The line exits the windlass well via a steel tube traveling under the deck and exits the boat on the bow just below deck level.

The tube is too small in diameter for an eye splice to fit through. I am thinking back splicing a shackle, so I can attach nylon rode to the end of the chain when the need calls for it.

The windlass is the old Simpson Lawrence 555. I have two, one on the boat and one in storage.

Can somebody tell me what happens when the windlass meets a couple of shackles, back to back, one to the chain and one to the nylon rode?

TIA.
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Old 14-10-2010, 13:04   #26
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What kind of windlass is that going through??

And, doesn't that limit your line diameter?
It goes on the drum winch I show in my book, which doesn't care what kind of chain you have. A bow shackle lets you use a larger line if necessary.
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Old 14-10-2010, 13:30   #27
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Hiracer: If you have any spare room in your locker, nylon brait (8-plait, for example) uses far less space than the 3-strand, doesn't hockle as easily, and is pretty easy to backsplice onto chain.
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Old 18-10-2010, 18:12   #28
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Hiracer: If you have any spare room in your locker, nylon brait (8-plait, for example) uses far less space than the 3-strand, doesn't hockle as easily, and is pretty easy to backsplice onto chain.

I know. I have 600' of 8-plait.
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Old 18-10-2010, 18:48   #29
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For the last 35 years ,I have simply put the end of the rope thru the first chain link and tied a knot in it. When I see chafe, I pull a bit more out and tie another knot in, and cut the old one off. Never been a problem.
I do the same with rope to wire halyards.

Heh!

KISS huh?
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Old 18-10-2010, 19:02   #30
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#3 There is really not much disagreement on this among those with the most knowledge. Both the line AND windless manufacturers all recommend the back splice.
Samson ropes: http://www.samsonrope.com/site_files..._RopeChain.pdf,
I have trouble with understanding the particulars.

eg: In step 3 it says;
Begin tucking the strands in an over one under one pattern, just as in a 3-Strand Eye Splice.

Then in step 4 it says;
With strands I and III tucked once, (4A), turn splice over to tuck strand II (4B).

But the picture does not show it going first over a strand and then under.

Then the first picture in step 5 shows strand 3 obviously over a strand first.

This type of stuff throws me all out of whack. Is it my inability to look at written material and pictures? Am I the only one?

Will have to look at the other ones closely too I suppose.
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