Snubber - What Do You Use ?

[Irie]

Has anyone done this, and is it a good idea?

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[osirissail]

Rather a lot of overkill, but it would work. I use the simple flat stainless steel thick plate with a slot in it that fits between the links of the anchor chain. 20 feet of 1/2 inch 3-strand is attached. The plate slides in between the links of the chain and the line is led back to a deck cleat. Another version sold by West Marine is this item which also used a few meters of nylon 3-strand and grabs the chain between links.

[Irie]

I've got a hook from Witchard and a smooth stainless shackle that I was just going to attach to a line secured from port and starboard cleats but the more I read, the more I worry about chafe. I was sorta thinking I could get by (if the drwg I attached is the right idea) with just seizing the center of a line around a thimble instead of all the splicing.

[Islandmike]

We use up to 60' of 5/8" Nylon (3 strand twisted) with a galvanized thimble attaced to a SS grab hook. It is actually 100' feet long, however, we have never needed to put that much out. This is attached to our HT 3/8" chain. It has always worked very well in all conditions... We run the snubber from the chain back through the hawse pipe and tie it off on the sampson post. After the snubber is attached and tight we release more chain, this gives us a nice loop in the chain to further help the snubber do its job. We have a large bow sprit, martingale stay and dophin striker so the bridle you have shown does not really work for our boat, however, Im sure it would work well with the right set up. We have found that the real key to a good snubber (especially with chain) is to have plenty of snubber out, not just 10 or 15 feet, but somtimes 30-40 feet if it is really blowing... One more thing, it is imperitive that you protect your nylon snubber from chaff...

[Roaring Girl]

We use 3 strand nylon line spliced to a hook like the one in your pic. Just the one line to (for left-handedness and windlass set up reasons) to the starboard bow cleat. Effective and v quick to remove.

[Hudson Force]

I use a similar "snubber" and your plan looks quite suitable. I would not favor the spliced loops for attachment to the bow cleats for three reasons. Longer lines without loops allow to adjust the length of the snubber which can lesson the action of the boat when a wave period matches and reinforces the period of the boat's action. Second, with loops on the cleats you can't release them under load,- though an unlikely need. Most important for me, I like to vary the length of my snubber lines to increase their longevity. With spliced loops my lines would continue to wear at the same spot where they bend at the edge of my foredeck.

[Irie]

So, the single line would sure be easier (I don't have a sampson post). Just trying to picture it in my mind how the boat would sit at anchor with snubber attached to s'brd cleat. Is that any problem at all?

[osirissail]

Chafe is a major problem with snubber line(s) and depending upon your boat's bow system there are several way to deal with it.
- - If you have bow roller for the anchors the subbing line(s) can go over the rollers (you slide the slack chain over to the side of the roller) and then when it stretches and relaxes the roller move accordingly.
- - If that is not possible then the snubber line(s) go over the toerail or through a hawse pipe. There I use the canvas chafe guard sold by West Marine and other boat parts stores that wraps around the lines and takes the wear instead.
- - I have also used a snatch block attached to the bow fitting to direct the snubber lines and keep them from touching any of the bow where they might chafe.
- - Using only a port or the starboard deck cleat works fine as there is usually an advantage of offsetting the bow a little one way or the other to compensate for wind or currents.

[Hudson Force]

In a rolly anchorage a single snubber offset port or starboard can settle a boat that might "dance" about. Sometimes it can be wise to bring a second line from the chain hook further aft to a winch or turning block to ease the action of the boat.

[Dockhead]

We've had a lot of snubber discussion lately, haven't we?

Most of us seem to be slightly obsessed with all aspects of anchoring. I can confess that I am.

A snubber spliced up like your drawing could be really useful if you are running your snubber through an unused bow roller to eliminate chafe (as I recently started doing).

If however you are leading your snubber over the rail from bow cleats, then I think there's not much point, IMHO, unless your boat doesn't lie well to a single line snubber offset to one side. Most boats in my experience lie better with an offset pull from the snubber.

It's a matter of taste, much discussed around here recently, whether to use a chain hook or not. I actually do use a chain hook to belay the chain ahead of the windlass (I don't have a chain stopper). But for the snubber itself I, personally, prefer a rolling hitch, which can't fall out.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by Irie

So, the single line would sure be easier (I don't have a sampson post). Just trying to picture it in my mind how the boat would sit at anchor with snubber attached to s'brd cleat. Is that any problem at all?

Most boats lie better that way. Slightly offset to the wind. They usually "dance" around less than if they are exactly head to wind.

Be sure to think about chafe. A lot depends on the angle the snubber takes when it goes over the rail. Our old boat had quite a low bow, and the angle was shallow, and there was a good fairlead. Our new boat has a high bow (2 meters from bow roller to water) and no fairlead, just a stainless rub strip over the rail at that point. I didn't like the way the snubber was chafing on that, which is why I started running it over an unused bow roller.

An alternate approach would be to use a piece of hose as an anti-chafe device, but the sharper the angle the less effective any anti-chafe measures will be.

[sabray]

on chafe it is amazing how fast a 3/4 inch line can burn through when its really rocking. I wouldn't have believed it had I not seen lines getting torn up whil passing through a very nice smooth hawse pipe. It was a wild time but it felt like the lines would cook in about 30 minutes of constant high tension rubbing. I dont like these open pelican hooks there fine when the load is on but they need to be secured so they dont drop off the chain. Im making 2 piece hinged stainless piece that will lock around the chain.

[Troubadour52993]

I have a line spliced directly onto the hook for everyday use. It is 50' long and can be adjusted to vary the point where it goes through the starboard chock. It has to be shorter than the distance from the bow roller to the bottom or it does come off; I also run a loop of chain behind the snubber to help weight it down. My chock is very close to the bow roller and it works well. I have the line run through fire hose and then a cotton rag over the firehose keeps it from squeaking when then tension comes and goes.

I also have one of the Kong grabber hooks that secures over a link to prevent it from falling off if it loses tension, but have not needed to use it yet.

[Irie]

Well I can hardly wait to try anchoring with a couple setup from this post. I would never have guessed that the boat would lie better offset to the wind.
I got a hook with a spring loaded locking pin.
Thanks for the help.

[svcambria]

I use 100 feet of 5/8 three-strand nylon with a trucker's knot in the middle over a thimble and a chain hook shackling the thimble and hook together. This gives me about 50 feet on either side of the hook. Occasionally at anchor swells come from a different direction than wind or current; then I lead the "windward" end of the snubber over to the other side, further aft, and warp the boat around to face the swells. Fire hose to keep down chafe, and use variable length of line to match conditions. Same line for ten years; it is showing some wear.
In a storm I would recommend the rolling hitch as you can throw it off to let out more scope and not loose the line (it's tied to the chain)...

Michael