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Old 12-10-2010, 10:14   #46
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BUY US CHAIN.
Actually, some of the best chain isn't made in the US, but in Italy, Germany, Canada, France, etc - there are other options besides Chinese.

We are sitting here in Grenada with 9 boats who have had their US made ACCO chain fail in less than a year. We are one of them and will be getting our new Italian Maggi chain this afternoon.

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Old 12-10-2010, 10:16   #47
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I don't need a kitchen knife for a shaclke there has to be other additives in most stainless to make it harder I found that if I try to mix my nuts and bolts up nonmagnetic and slightly magnetic and they seem not to corrode as bad
You missed the point, which was that a magnet is not a good way to pick stainless - but it is a good way to make sure that no one threw a random galvanized piece in the bin.

Stainless composition varies greatly in the "additives" used.

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Old 12-10-2010, 10:17   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colemj View Post
Actually, some of the best chain isn't made in the US, but in Italy, Germany, Canada, France, etc - there are other options besides Chinese.

We are sitting here in Grenada with 9 boats who have had their US made ACCO chain fail in less than a year. We are one of them and will be getting our new Italian Maggi chain this afternoon.

Mark
oops--i stand corrected-thankyou mark--i guess we make our chain in china, also--- yipes.....lowest bidder isnt always cool--- thankyou for the update!
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Old 12-10-2010, 10:33   #49
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Ya,

I was shocked to see my new rocna was made in China, GaSP!!! I'm banking (naive??) on a ronca's reputation, not the country of manufacture.......

-dennis
Don't be too perturbed about it. USCG has been known to be sourced from China. What pisses me off is prices don't necessarily reflect Chinese/Asian manufacture. eg Nike, Apple, GAP etc. etc. You can only hope that brand names have a very good quality control in place. Prices didn't go down all that much, profits certainly went up. Have a look at how the stock market went in those early years.

Gawd I get off track. These have to be Pub discussions
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Old 12-10-2010, 10:54   #50
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I'm quite amused at the misinformation on this thread. But, without having read the full content I'll stick in my oar as someone who's actually worked in China for 15+ years.

A lot of stuff is made in China. Much of it is top quality and equally, much of it is really crap. "Made in China" is what is required on exported/imported goods under a host of international agreements. In a nutshell, it is a meaningless tag. The real litmus test is under who's supervision and standards it was manufactured.
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Old 12-10-2010, 13:24   #51
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... A lot of stuff is made in China. Much of it is top quality and equally, much of it is really crap...
The real litmus test is under who's supervision and standards it was manufactured.
Exactly.

But if you don't know under who's supervision and standards it was manufactured, assume the worst.
If you do know under who's supervision and standards it was manufactured, then theirs is the reputation to consider.
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Old 12-10-2010, 17:11   #52
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Here's what you need. $10. It's what I use. I can't imagine it could be worthwhile to save a few bucks for a Chinese shackle of questionable quality when your boat is at stake.

3/8" HT (WLL 2 ton) perfect for your Gemini 105 which is probably using 5/16" HT chain. The 3/8" shackle is the largest size you can use in 5/16" chain without adding an over-sized end link. If you're using 1/4" chain you will need to go down a size to 5/16" shackle. Stick with the Crosby Hi Test and you won't go wrong.

SHACKLE ANCHOR 3/8" USA 2TON HI TEST SLVR PIN 105393

I have no affiliation. Hamilton is a chandler that caters to Maine lobstermen and they don't like crappy stuff.

BTW there is no way the Wichard shackle of equal size will be stronger.

Thanks for that.
I have 1/4" HT and don't see the one like above but will check this weekend.
I agree that a few bucks on the "connectors" are not worth the boat. That is why I asked all the questions at WM.
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Old 12-10-2010, 17:23   #53
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For whatever it's worth, I have 5/16th HT with a 3/8 Crosby shackle. It's the biggest shackle that fits my chain and fits the anchor (60lb mason supreme) pretty well. The only thing I'm wondering about now is the stainless steel siezing wire that I use since it's the "more noble" I guess it's causing my shackle to rust away.

To put this whole conversation in prospective though, we're talking about a $10 shackle (if you buy a really good one). It's less than a six pack of good import beer. No idea why you would cheap out in that area.

I use monel seizing wire.
I was told it was better for the application.
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Old 12-10-2010, 18:26   #54
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For people with 1/4" HT chain like myself, who want to have a strength compatable shackle, they can use the expensive / hassle solution I mentioned in a previous post... (A custom 1/4" chain with oversize end links). HOWEVER... next time, = soon, I plan to use an ACCO "H shaped" HT 5/16" to 5/16" pin to pin connector, which IS strength compatable and then some, to add a 3' or 4' section of 5/16 HT chain to the anchor end of my 1/4" HT chain. The extra weight here would actually help a bit, and now that the end has stepped up tp 5/16" HT chain, you CAN use the previously mentioned Crosby 3/8" HT shackle. The pins on this "H connector" are hardened & plated, not galvanized, so I will keep an eye on it & change it out every year. It is a lot less hassle than the custom chain route that I previously took!
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Old 12-10-2010, 21:23   #55
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Exactly.

But if you don't know under who's supervision and standards it was manufactured, assume the worst.
If you do know under who's supervision and standards it was manufactured, then theirs is the reputation to consider.
Quite frankly a lot of 'name brand' boating equipment is crap. Cheap plastic navigation lights that retail for $60+ ha, ha, ha, c'est la merde. The marine industries most ubiquitous fan which vibrates like a banshee and moves almost no air and nonetheless which retails for $80+, now there's your Teutonic quality. I won't go into names here but the amount of so-called 'marine grade' stuff I've bought and discarded over the years is astounding.

To me, a lot of the big names in the industry are synonymous with rubbish. I've found the identical items in Mong Kok (a district here in Hong Kong also famous for 'ahem' nocturnal pleasures) under local brand names for 1/20th the price - and they work just as well. I'm going on 15 years now with my West Marine vs Mong Kok supply chain evaluation...

I will pay the premium to the big names for items under load - they test those specific things and manufacture them to engineering standards (probably only because their lawyers tell them they have to). With respect to the rest - plumbing, electrical fixtures, etc. - I'm quite happy casting my gimlet eye over the item in question and to be the final arbiter of quality.

But when it comes to shackles and anchoring I go imported.
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Old 12-10-2010, 21:49   #56
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Thanks for that.
I have 1/4" HT and don't see the one like above but will check this weekend.
I agree that a few bucks on the "connectors" are not worth the boat. That is why I asked all the questions at WM.
I suspect they don't make a 5/16" Crosby HT silver pin. Unless you get larger welded end links for your 1/4" chain you're limited to a load rated standard shackle like the Crosby red pin rated 1500 pounds WLL SHACKLE ANCHOR 5/16" USA LOAD RATED RED PIN 105399

... or orange pin made by CM

GALVANIZED ANCHOR SHACKLE 5/16" USA
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Old 12-10-2010, 21:59   #57
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For people with 1/4" HT chain like myself, who want to have a strength compatable shackle, they can use the expensive / hassle solution I mentioned in a previous post... (A custom 1/4" chain with oversize end links). HOWEVER... next time, = soon, I plan to use an ACCO "H shaped" HT 5/16" to 5/16" pin to pin connector, which IS strength compatable and then some, to add a 3' or 4' section of 5/16 HT chain to the anchor end of my 1/4" HT chain. The extra weight here would actually help a bit, and now that the end has stepped up tp 5/16" HT chain, you CAN use the previously mentioned Crosby 3/8" HT shackle. The pins on this "H connector" are hardened & plated, not galvanized, so I will keep an eye on it & change it out every year. It is a lot less hassle than the custom chain route that I previously took!
M
Check again. I have one of those Acco swivels in my basement (never used) because when I got it I realized it was stamped 1.5 T WLL and 5/16" HT chain is 2T, as are the Crosby silver pin HT shackles. So the swivel would have been the weak link, and a more complex one at that. If you want it send me a PM.
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Old 13-10-2010, 03:34   #58
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Check again. I have one of those Acco swivels in my basement (never used) because when I got it I realized it was stamped 1.5 T WLL and 5/16" HT chain is 2T, as are the Crosby silver pin HT shackles. So the swivel would have been the weak link, and a more complex one at that. If you want it send me a PM.
Mark -- On further thought, the Acco swivel connector does match the WLL of the 1/4" HT chain, so yes it is a good solution for you. All you need is a few links of 5/16" HT between the swivel and the 3/8" HT shackle to keep the whole assembly at or above the WLL of your 1/4" chain.

As for adding the extra length of 5/16" chain to get extra weight over 1/4", that's not worth it. The swivel will not pass through a windlass, and the difference in chain weight will not make a difference in holding in storm conditions (as discussed many times in anchor threads when the subject of catenary arises).
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Old 13-10-2010, 05:20   #59
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Has anyone ordered and tried this hardware supplier? I believe they produce in the US.

Marine Part Depot

Steve in Solomons MD
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Old 13-10-2010, 05:35   #60
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Marine Part Depot is an online retailer in California. I assume their hardware is made in China. I bought their parts for my bimini, and I've been satisfied. I wouldn't trust their parts in my anchor rode.
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