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Old 11-10-2010, 19:09   #31
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This shackle was on our boat when we got it. It was attaching the bob stay to the knuckle. Completely hallowed out by corrosion. No sign of a brand on it, obviously. Highly magnetic when I tested that. Scary.

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Old 11-10-2010, 19:16   #32
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BTW there is no way the Wichard shackle of equal size will be stronger.
Wichard are stainless, so it isn't a direct comparison.

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Old 11-10-2010, 19:20   #33
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Memory of my last look through the crosby catalog... They had High test shackles in as small as 3/8, (like seen above), which can be used with as small as 5/16 G-4/HT chain. They are strength compatable. This is important with HT chain!

On my 34' tri I switched to 2,600 WL - 110' of 1/4" HT chain + rope rode, for the deeper anchorages of the Eastern Caribbean. Then I had trouble finding strength compatable shackles, even with Crosby. (they didn't have HT shackles as small as 5/16") I went through the "then" BOAT US catalog special order dept. (now WEST), and they ordered for me a custom HT chain, through ARCO. It was 110' of 1/4" G4/HT chain with one G4 3/8" link, made up into each end, before galvanizing. All HT/G4 & proof tested! Then I could get larger compatable shackles & had a link large enough to splice a larger 5/8" rope into the other end. Otherwise...

For most folks who use 5/16 or larger chain, the above shackle is the best you can do! Mark
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Old 11-10-2010, 19:31   #34
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Well it was the one above... now it is several frames up. The CROSBY galvanized one.
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Old 11-10-2010, 20:12   #35
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china

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Since someone posted this same question about chain, I figured why not ask about shackles too.

I bought a few Sea Choice shackles from Jamestown without even knowing that they were made in China. In addition to being WAY cheaper they're also rated slightly higher than Wichard, Crosby, etc. of the same size. I also find it hard to believe that Jamestown in going to carry crap inferior shackles, that are going to break under load and send you drifting.

I did the trip up from Florida with a Chinese shackle on my main anchor. We anchored out almost every night, and there were a few nights that it was kind of windy and/or bumpy. And...it actually held.

So, what's the opinion here? Who makes the best shackles? Are the Chinese ones garbage?
I do not buy nothing made in China look at the paint they were using in childrens toys and the toxic jewlery they make it as cheap as they can and ship it over here to us wall mart is so rich from them and your ground tackle thats your life no no china shackles on my gear like the old saying you get what you pay for buy american high quality and sleep at night
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Old 11-10-2010, 20:15   #36
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stainless

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Wichard are stainless, so it isn't a direct comparison.

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when i buy stainless i put a magnet in my pocket and test it before i buy
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Old 12-10-2010, 04:53   #37
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I do not buy nothing made in China
Unless you borrowed the computer you posted this with, your statement isn't true.

Well, actually it is true, but I'm assuming the grammar was unintentional

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Old 12-10-2010, 04:59   #38
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when i buy stainless i put a magnet in my pocket and test it before i buy
Always a good thing to do, but be aware that 304 stainless can be slightly magnetic from work hardening. You will find perfectly acceptable fasteners that have slight magnetism from the manufacturing process.

Also, most stainless series ARE magnetic (how does your magnetic strip hold those stainless kitchen knives?). The 300 series used most commonly in boats have nickel added which removes the magnetism.

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Old 12-10-2010, 05:26   #39
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Wichard, for instance, uses top-quality grades of stainless steel in its products (see chart page 30). All of their shackles are forged in France.
The first type is a low carbon austenitic steel (316L), which offers good mechanical characteristics. They are non-magnetic steels and most of Wichard products are manufactured in this grade.
The second (17.4PH) is martensitic steel (magnetic), which is referred to as high-resistance steel (HR).
They also manufacture some shackles in Titanium TA6V (slightly paramagnetic).

See ➥ http://www.wichard.com/documents/stainlessSteel.pdf
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Old 12-10-2010, 05:48   #40
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I don't need a kitchen knife for a shaclke there has to be other additives in most stainless to make it harder I found that if I try to mix my nuts and bolts up nonmagnetic and slightly magnetic and they seem not to corrode as bad
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Old 12-10-2010, 05:54   #41
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... I found that if I try to mix my nuts and bolts up nonmagnetic and slightly magnetic and they seem not to corrode as bad
Respectfully, I cannot imagine why that would be, and don't believe it.
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Old 12-10-2010, 06:45   #42
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The issue about Hardware mounted to your boat, is not as much magnetic VS non magnetic, as 304 VS 316. In the presense of a salty / damp environment, The more noble metal, (316) is the cathode, and the least noble (304) being the anode.

Most hardware is 304, but more & more is becoming available that's 316 grade. In this case you must use 316 grade fastenings as well! Otherwise, the larger piece & the more noble piece, (the hardware), will cause the less noble 304 fastenings to corode. And be sure to not only bed the hardware, but under the heads of the fastenings, to keep out the nasty ol salt water...

BTW.. The chain store "Fastenall", stocks 316 grade fastenings, and (for a price), can get in what they don't have in a day or two. Except for smaller self tapping screws and such, the grade is marked on each fastening, so you KNOW what you're getting. M
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Old 12-10-2010, 07:57   #43
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For whatever it's worth, I have 5/16th HT with a 3/8 Crosby shackle. It's the biggest shackle that fits my chain and fits the anchor (60lb mason supreme) pretty well. The only thing I'm wondering about now is the stainless steel siezing wire that I use since it's the "more noble" I guess it's causing my shackle to rust away.

To put this whole conversation in prospective though, we're talking about a $10 shackle (if you buy a really good one). It's less than a six pack of good import beer. No idea why you would cheap out in that area.

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Old 12-10-2010, 08:15   #44
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where are rocna's made

Ya,

I was shocked to see my new rocna was made in China, GaSP!!! I'm banking (naive??) on a ronca's reputation, not the country of manufacture.......

-dennis
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Old 12-10-2010, 09:25   #45
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1999--the result of chinese galvanization was a breakaway force 50 sailing ship which, at 0200, proceeded thru the moorings destroying all in its path-- body count-4 other boats. all because of a link in the 1/2 inch chain supplied by the port of san diego --ONE LINK in a long chain mooring this force 50 to the ground had imperfection in the galvanizing of the link and, in 70+kts winds, twisted and broke, causing the breakaway . to this day that is known s the china chain incident.
do YOU trust chinese galvanization?? i dont.

yes-i was very close to the scene at the time. i was anchored in the cruisers anchorage then--- my friends were involved and i saw the link before the port employees took it from the owner of th e force 50.
with your boat/home depending on the outcome--BUY US CHAIN.
do NOT buy chinese chain or chinese chain parts--they dont take care in galvanizing. they miss spots. those spots FAIL. their welds are also suspect.

rust is not the product of electrolysis--rust is caused by gods. rust happens. isnt a matter if ignoble or noble metals. is different from electrolysis, wherein the metals change their composition. steel will rust when salt water hits it then air hits it. the magic ingredient for rust is air. magic ingredient for electrolysis is water. stainless seizing wire is very very appropriate. even necessary. at minimum-use galvanized seizing wire.
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