Rope - Chain Splice

[Bob Oram]

With regard to chafe at the chain/rode interface.
I have used plastic heat shrink around 16mm [5/8"] 3 strand nylon.
I pass the end of the rode through the heat shrink [approximate length of heat shrink is about 3 x dia] and 'shrink' it in place approx 500mm from the end of the rode [for this diameter of line this gives plenty of length for the splice] .
I then pass the heat shrunk nylon thru the chain.
The centre of the heat shrink sits in the middle of the end link. I then do a ['close'] standard eye splice with never less than 7 wraps. 'note' I do not unlay the rode until it is thru the link as I believe it is stronger [the reason spiral winding in any medium exists in the first place]
The chain was short link 8mm [5/16"] x 20mts, the rode was 16mm [5/8"] x 30mts. A bridle [length of bridle = beam of boat approx] was used at all times.
The boat was 3 ton x 40' power cat.
A swivel was used at the anchor/chain join which isn't ideal but still helped with 'twist' a little.
A swivel [with shackles etc] at the rode/chain join won't go around a standard gypsy with any 'elegance'.
As mentioned by others, the splice was continually inspected but after 3 years was still fine with zero chafe.
I haven't tried the '2 strands thru one side of the link and the other from the other side method' but the benefit I see is a smaller more compact splice and with each strand taking some of the chafe load as against passing the whole rode thru the link where it looks as though only 2 strands take most of the chafe load. It becomes a mute point if heat shrink is used.
Hope this is of use.
regards to all.

[Bob Oram]

Further to 3 strand rope 'unravelling' at the link problem.
With some 'soft' rope [be it nylon or otherwise] the strands will 'unlay' very easily.
One can only try to continously 'relay' [twist back in the original direction] each strand as tight as possible as it is being worked. This does work, although it is annoying having to do it.

[SimonV]

We need more pictures...chain to rope splice, this is what I use. http://www.neropes.com/Splicing%20Gu...AIN_SPLICE.pdf

[Bob Oram]

Another little 'trick' to increase holding power, especially for boats where the anchor winch is a few metres from the bow roller.
Use 1/2" or even heavier chain for the first few metres between the anchor and anchor winch.
For catamarans that are swinging around madly even with a bridle, tie a heavy weight or even a strong steel bucket at the junction of the bridle and the rode.
In a mono if you are in a rolling anchorage lower a strong steel bucket [the chinese S/S buckets are as cheap as chips] on about 6' of line [so the bucket is well clear of the turn of the bilge from a sheet winch on either side and the roll will stop just about instantly.
I have done this on a 40' power boat and everyone started eating and drinking again.
regards

[GordMay]

(Belated) Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, Bob Oram.