Rolling Hitch Nylon Rode Snubber ?

[Paul Elliott]

I think there may be some confusion here. The suggestion to make a bridle from the rode and one snubber was probably assuming a rope/chain anchor rode, so the rope would be taking some of the load, not the chain.

When using a snubber with an all-chain rode, the chain should never take the load (under normal conditions). The snubber (or snubbers in a bridle) should carry all the tension. I usually have a good long loop of chain hanging down between the bow and the snubber (I use a rolling hitch). The weight of the extra chain helps slightly with the angles, at least under typical conditions.

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by Paul Elliott

... When using a snubber with an all-chain rode, the chain should never take the load (under normal conditions). The snubber (or snubbers in a bridle) should carry all the tension. I usually have a good long loop of chain hanging down between the bow and the snubber ...

INDEED!

[Kettlewell]

I will just add to this snubber discussion to say that if tieing a line to another line with a rolling hitch, it is easier and works better if the snubber is smaller than the main line. In other words, I use a 3/8" snubber and it ties well to a 5/8" line, which is my main rode after the chain. Plus, three strand is the best for a snubber as it grips the other rode well and provides more stretch for the same diameter as braid. On my catamaran (last boat) we had the main anchor on a roller on one bow (instead of on the center beam like a lot of cats do) and once the anchor was set we would just tie off the 3/8" snubber from the other bow, then let out a bit more anchor rode until the proper V was formed off the bow. Worked perfectly. Of course, we had chafing gear on the main rode where it went over the bow roller.

[barnakiel]

Originally Posted by cwyckham

I think this is backwards.

On itself, this perhaps is. But if the main rode is poly or nylon rather than chain then it is not.

b.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by cwyckham

I think this is backwards. The point of the snubber is to act as a cushion to reduce the impact loading on the whole anchoring system. It's more important in heavy conditions as that's when you're going to get big loads (largest loads are due to waves on an already tight rode). Does make sense to have a heavier snubber, perhaps, for the really big conditions, but the heavier the snubber, the less boing you get out of it.

Exactly. The heavier snubber needs to be longer, to give back the stretch you take away with the heavier line.

It wouldn't make much sense to have the snubber back up the main rode, as it will always (by definition -- otherwise it wouldn't be doing any snubbing) be lighter than the main rode.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by Kettlewell

Plus, three strand is the best for a snubber as it grips the other rode well and provides more stretch for the same diameter as braid.

Besides three-strand and braid there is a third choice -- octoplait or anchorplait. It's easier to handle and is not as prone to breaking down as three-strand, and doesn't twist apart like 3-strand. Little harder to splice but overall better, IMHO.

[Mark Johnson]

Originally Posted by Dockhead

Besides three-strand and braid there is a third choice -- octoplait or anchorplait. It's easier to handle and is not as prone to breaking down as three-strand, and doesn't twist apart like 3-strand. Little harder to splice but overall better, IMHO.

Agreed! I have switched to NER's "MegaBraid". It's a 12 strand nylon plait that stretches as well or better than three strand, and falls in a pile like chain, rather than in large hockles, like old stiff three strand. The cost is roughly similar to three strand, and while a really tight splice through the last chain link works well, it IS harder than three strand to splice.

This stuff, if used in a rope/chain rode, occupies far less space in the bottom of the locker than the same size three strand, and this gives more fall to the chain. It would also make a superior snubber, bridle, or dock lines that you want to stretch.

M.

[imagine2frolic]

My bridle is mega-braid, and when I run out chain I use 3 strand on my rope. When I reach the rope I use the rolling hitch with great success......i2f

[jackdale]

Out of curiosity; why use a a snubber once your are on rope?

I only use one on all-chain.

[imagine2frolic]

I would think to keep the rode from chafing, and you get a second chance to keep from going adrift?

Also on my second rope, anchor, there are eyelets spliced into the rope for a the bridle.......i2f

[Kettlewell]

The cost is roughly similar to three strand,

I won't dispute its easy handling, but NE Ropes Mega Braid is about 60% more expensive than NE Ropes 3-strand, comparing prices on 5/8" from Hamilton Marine ($1.62 per foot vs. $1.01). Plus, Mega Braid has a breaking strain 1800 lbs. less than the 3-strand. I've asked NE Ropes and they say that their premium 3-strand is their most abrasion resistant rope for anchoring use. I've found the NE Ropes 3-strand is pretty good about not getting into a tangle too--just about the right lay--not too stiff and not too loose. I just dump it into the bottom of the anchor locker, never coiling it. Coiling it is where you get into trouble--it introduces twists that cause handling problems.

[Bash]

Originally Posted by jackdale

Out of curiosity; why use a a snubber once your are on rope?

I only use one on all-chain.

Better to chafe the snubber than the rode. Think of the snubber as a sacrificial line. Also, you get more stretch--hence more shock absorption--out of an undersize snubber, which many of us use. For example, someone with a 1" diameter rode might want to tie on a 1/2" diameter snubber.

[jackdale]

Originally Posted by Bash

Better to chafe the snubber than the rode. Think of the snubber as a sacrificial line. Also, you get more stretch--hence more shock absorption--out of an undersize snubber, which many of us use. For example, someone with a 1" diameter rode might want to tie on a 1/2" diameter snubber.

Good explanation.

My snubbers (usually a dock line) tend to be sized larger that the anchor rope.

In heavy conditions at anchor, I set a watch and let out 6" of rode every hour to minimize chafe.

[Bash]

Originally Posted by jackdale

Good explanation.

My snubbers (usually a dock line) tend to be sized larger that the anchor rope.

In heavy conditions at anchor, I set a watch and let out 6" of rode every hour to minimize chafe.

Understood. It's been years since I've bothered with an anchor watch. Part of that is that I spend way too much time on the hook to afford losing that much sleep. Part of that is that I'm getting older. Part of that is that I've bought a Rocna anchor, and I've set it at least 100 times without it ever dragging. (And part of that is that my Rocna was made in Canada, not China.) Part of that is that I've been using an all-chain rode for more than a decade, so I sleep better.

When I make a snubber I spend about $15 on the materials, and spend about 30 minutes on the splices. I don't even bother with a thimble anymore. They always seem to last longer than they're supposed to. My chain hook on the current snubber is solid rust, but the nylon seems ready to go another year. Hard to complain about that.

[jackdale]

Originally Posted by Bash

Understood. It's been years since I've bothered with an anchor watch. Part of that is that I spend way too much time on the hook to afford losing that much sleep.

I have set an anchor watch three times in 30 years.

1) 50 knot winds in Silva Bay
2) strong winds in The Bahamas (Abacos)
3) 45 knot winds in Isla Espiritu Santo after dragging twice in one day

I also sail OPBs. That tends to lower my trust levels.