Our 10 year old Lofrans
was leaking gear oil
to the extent that it was staining the deck
and I was concerned that we might run it dry of oil
, and that would be grim. Other than the main engine
, I think the next most important piece of equipment
on the boat
is the windlass
. The Lofrans
Falkon that we have has been a trooper. Over the past few seasons I reckon we have anchored hundreds of times, not including the times where we have needed to lift
and try again. We have 12 mm anchor
chain and a 40 kilo anchor, so it does a lot of work
I had to repair a broken spring in Mallorca a few years ago. It happened when we lifted the anchor too aggressively and pulled it against the stem roller with a bang. The broken spring prevented us from doing a controlled drop of the anchor – somewhat disconcerting when your anchor takes off and drops freefall. Thankfully we have a brake on the unit to slow the descent. I ordered the parts
from Lofrans and had a machine shop extract the broken screw (and 50 euros from my pocket). I managed to get the anchor windlass put back together fairly quickly, but didn’t write down my approach and therefore had a couple of problems that I am will document how to avoid here.
Over the past few years I have been performing regular maintenance
on our Lofrans Falkon – greasing the windlass and making sure that it is well lubricated, but this year I needed to go further and replace the o-rings and seals
, plus I decided to replace the brushes
of the motor
as well. One of those – “if you have to take everything apart anyway, you might as well …” scenarios where we might as well replace everything at once.
Dismantling the windlass is no problem, take off the clutch
, chain gypsy
and cone on the starboard side – so all you have is the shaft remaining. On the starboard side there is a permanent key that cannot be removed. On the port side you remove the winch
drum with the 17mm bolt and then remove the winch
drum, the manual raising mechanism and the key.
Note: every time I have worked on the port-side of the shaft when the key is removed I have received a brutal cut to my hand from the extremely – e.g., razor sharp – edges of the key-way slot.
After this I removed the motor
housing bolts (2 13mm’s) to show the motor (carefully marking the port vs. starboard red power lines.
Then I sucked out as much oil as I could through the filler hole. If I had a “do-over” I would have spent a lot more time getting oil out this way because when I removed the 8 hex allen-key bolts from the cover I had a huge oil spill
that I used an entire roll of paper towel to mop up.
Once the cover is off you just need to pull the shaft out the starboard side – a gentle tap of the port side with a dead-blow hammer is helpful, and it will slide out. Again if I had a do-over I would not
have wiggled the shaft to remove it as that pulled the bearing out of the pump
casing. It always amazes me how easy it is to pull a bearing out and how difficult it is to reinstall it.
At this point I sucked out the remaining oil with my small hand pump
and then cleaned out the inside of the casting with paper towel. During this process the bearing came out of the housing on the port side which was a bit of a pain to replace. We ended up putting it in the freezer
for 5 minutes and tapping it in using a deadblow hammer and a piece of wood
Replacing the seals
was quite easy. I pulled them out with a screwdriver and pair of pliers. I cleaned up the aluminum
with oil and a rag, and then pushed the seal in gently seating it again with the deadblow hammer.
Taking the motor out was a two person job. The first thing I did was remove the long two-ended screw (difficult to describe but it’s the 40cm or so long bolt that is threaded on both sides that the acorn nuts attach to hold the motor cover on.) Then there are three allen-key bolts that hold the motor in. Unfortunately on my installation
the battery cables
that provide power obscure the bolt – this is where the second set of hands is required – one to hold the cable out of the way, and the other to remove the bolts. The hardest was the port-side, because of having both a red and a black wire in the way. The starboard one only had a red wire – the top one was a cinch.
Once unbolted the motor just pulls out – the end of the worm gear
sits in a needle bearing where the oil window is. Just pull it out of the hole and the entire mechanism, other than the needle bearing, comes out of the cast aluminum
Once the motor was out I set to replacing the O-ring and brushes
. Replacing the brushes was pretty easy – my main problem was the replacement brushes had a smaller diameter hole in the connector than the set-screw that holds them in place … so a little modification with my drill and we were away to the races.
Note: if you need to do this hold the connector with needle-nose pliers because the metal is copper and very soft.
Once you’ve prepared the new brushes, remove the existing brush (I used my fingers) and install the new one by pulling the spring – I hooked it with an o-ring remover and then used my fingers again. I had a little rust at the bottom of the motor that I scraped off and then painted the motor to protect it from further corrosion
There is a pile of copper and commutator dust that you probably don’t want to inhale so be careful.
By this point and time I had replaced the seals, o-rings, cleaned out the oil reservoir and replaced the brushes on the motor. I had put in about an hour and a half and thought I was 80% done. The tips I will describe next will save you a few hours upon reassembly – so listen carefully.
To re-install the motor, you’ll probably need 2 sets of hands again. The battery cables
get in the way so here’s what we did. We started with the port bolt (the one with the two wires on it that makes it especially hard) put the bolt into the mounting hole on the motor before we put the motor into the housting and have the ratchet already attached to it. This allowed us to get the bolt past the cables – something that we had tried unsuccessfully to do otherwise for about 15 minutes.
The shaft of the worm drive must seat into the needle bearing at the ‘window’ in the casing. Make sure that it is installed and spins smoothly before tightening up all the motor bolts.
Once these are tightened up we reattached the battery cables to the motor and tested that the motor works. It’s a good idea to make sure that it works before you reinstall everything else, add oil and then realize you need to break it down again.
At this point you have the worm gear in and the motor installed properly – great. You also have the new seals installed on the case and the cover, new o-ring on the motor, new o-ring on the cover and you have one o-ring left for the starboard side of the shaft after the bearing and before the seal. You should also have the bearing is installed on the port side of the case. If you look at the bronze
worm gear it is concave –if you try to install it with the outer ratchet already installed you cannot get it past the worm gear. No amount of hammering, pushing, swearing or cutting your hand on the razor sharp key edge will get this installed.
Put the shaft and the inner gear in, and arrange it so that it sits directly on top of the worm gear engaged with it. Then you must install the outer ratchet gear with the spring. This is a finicky thing, you’ll need a strong flat-head screwdriver that’s pretty big, and one that is slightly smaller. While someone holds the shaft so it doesn’t spin, you pry the ratchet spring with the big screwdriver allowing the smaller one to get in between the ratchet and the gears and this will let you push the pieces together and now you’re nearly there.
I spent more than an hour in the hot Greek sun trying (mostly hammering away gingerly with my dead-blow rubber mallet) to do this unsuccessfully before we went for lunch and came back with a new mind-set and figured out how to do it this way. Hopefully this may save you some time, frustration and possibly damaging your equipment
Now we have the gear in place, the ratchet is in place and a little bit of gear oil in the bottom of the reservoir – poured on top of the worm gear to facilitate mating up. This is another good time to test that everything works. Our windlass only works with the motor running so we sparked it up, tested the windlass up and down worked like a charm, so we were good to reassemble everything.
Don’t put too much oil in the reservoir because the worm drive turns at something like 2400RPM and you’ll have a mess of oil on deck
I filled the reservoir up with gear oil before installing the cover because the SAE 140 gear oil is a real pain to get into the fill hole. To install the cover I tapped the cover lightly with my dead-blow hammer to seat the bearing before I installed the bolts. I do this because once I tried to seat the bearing using the 8 bolts and broke the cover by putting too much pressure on a bolt. Note to self: every time you have stainless bolts going into aluminum you can easily break the cast aluminum. Anyway, 8 bolts later it is time to test one final time. Works perfectly.
Now reinstall the chain gypsy
side – with new grease as you go, and then the winch side. Tighten up the clutch, test the manual retrieval and voila … you have a fully serviced Lofrans winch – hopefully that you will not need to do again for a couple of years.
• 418402 KIT A SEALS FALKON KA11101 Price
including Vat 23% - 35,00
• 428947 BRUSH KIT FOR OLD 1500-1700W 12V Price
including Vat 23% - 95,00
• 633545 SPRING FALKON 403 Price including Vat 23% - 27,00
• 633252 SEAL TIGRES 463 Price including Vat 23% - 21,00
• 1 liter Gear Oil 140 SAE Price including Vat 23% - 5,00
Small and medium hex drivers – (metric but I can’t remember off the top of my head
and don’t want to pull my tools out to look)
screwdriver #2 for brush replacement
2x Regular head screwdrivers for prying ratchet and spring and pulling seals out
Large pliers to pull out seal on case,
Needlenose pliers, drill and bit for enlarging holes on brushes
2 buckets to hold the parts
Lots of rags and paper towels
Oil pump and waste oil bucket
Band-aids for when you cut your hand on that stupid key slot