Remote Windlass Control ?

[Dockhead]

We inherited a remote control for our windlass at the helm, something I have never used before.

I'm finding it difficult to think of any useful way to use it. It might be cool to be able to pay out the chain from the helm while anchoring while single handed, but without any way to know how much chain is out -- how could you do it?

I don't see any application when raising the anchor -- I can do that single-handed from the bow anyway, while being able to observe the angle and tension of the chain, and see the anchor (!) when it comes up.


Any of you guys have windlass controls at the helm, and how do you use them?

[James S]

I do....I use it to pay out chain while backing up (med mooring) to the dock or sea wall.
You can get a pretty good idea about how much chain is out by timing it roughly.
Also when its fairly shallow and your backing up, its more a question of distance back from where you dropped.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by James S

I do....I use it to pay out chain while backing up (med mooring) to the dock or sea wall.
You can get a pretty good idea about how much chain is out by timing it roughly.
Also when its fairly shallow and your backing up, its more a question of distance back from where you dropped.

Ah, thanks, didn't think of that -- never Med-moored yet in this boat.

I guess that would be mighty handy for adjusting the length of the chain while tying up Med-style to a quay. Cool; thanks.

Anybody have any other use for this device?

[djmarchand]

I installed a rocker switch at the helm, specifically to use when anchoring single handed. Here is how I use it.

While motoring to the selected anchoring spot, I pay out a foot or so of chain and go forward an kick the anchor forward on its roller, so it will then deploy. Then while at the helm, I reverse to stop the boat at the spot and then let the chain out from the helm while continuing to reverse. Once I get 75' or so of chain out, I go forward so I can see the chain markers and let more out until I get to my desired rode depth. Then I hook on the snubber and go back to the helm to set the anchor.

When retreiving the anchor I pick up about half of the rode from the helm while motoring forward. Then I go forward, wash down the crud, see how I need to turn the boat and go back to the helm to motor forward another 20' or so. Then back and forth until the anchor comes up.

IMO, helm control of the windlass is essential for singlehanding.

David

[Pelagic]

I have seen more damage done to bow cosmetics and anchor systems because of remote control operation than anything else |I can think of.

Operating blindly from the helm those powerful forces of wind and current sheer it is only a matter of time, before something jams and does damage

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by djmarchand

Then while at the helm, I reverse to stop the boat at the spot and then let the chain out from the helm while continuing to reverse. Once I get 75' or so of chain out, I go forward so I can see the chain markers and let more out until I get to my desired rode depth. Then I hook on the snubber and go back to the helm to set the anchor.

Hmm. But how do you know when enough chain is out to set the anchor? And not too much? I always thought this was a fairly critical thing, so that you don't have chain piled up over the anchor and yet you've got enough chain out that you have some angle on the chain. I am very careful to put about double the depth of chain out before I try to set it, no more and no less, not because of any actual experience, but because I was taught that way. Is this a superstition? I'm really interested in how you guys do this.

[roverhi]

A remote is really necessary for single handing as DJMARCHAND described above. Before I put in the remote, nearly ended up against a bulkhead while trying to steer the boat and run forward and drop the anchor simultaneously. Yep, you can't be in two places at the same time. I needed to anchor in the channel across from the former Mare Island Navy Yard. Had to anchor out of the channel which put me close to the bulkhead facing the marina on the opposite side of the channel. Of course it was blowing 20 plus right into the bulkhead. When I ran forward to drop the anchor, the boat immediately sailed up near another boat as it rapidly fell off toward the bulkhead. I ended up with the anchor half deployed and awfully near the bulkhead and the other boat. Fortunately, the then new Manson bit right in and held through the night on relatively short scope.

The winds had died a bit in the morning but still chancy getting the anchor up as I knew as soon as the anchor broke from the bottom, I needed to be at the helm and powering away from the bulkhead and out into the channel. I hauled the anchor up to a very short rode using the windlass. I understand that's something that you aren't supposed to do as it over taxes the windlass motor. When I felt the rode was short enough and the anchor about ready to break out, ran back to the cockpit and powered out into the channel, breaking the anchor free, and dragging it out into the deeper water of the channel. Once well out away from the channel, had the time to retrieve the final rode and stow the anchor.

If I'd had a remote, setting and retrieving the anchor would have been a no brainer. As it was, ended up with a very fitful night of anchor watch and a nail biter anchor retrieval.

[goboatingnow]

You could always just add a chain counter at the helm .

Dave

[Factor]

I have one and whilst I could live without it - it really is a cool thingto have. come in to anchor head to wind, let the boat slow and start to go back and let the chain out to the appropriate length take it up - bit more out and go forward and hook on the bridle. Timimg the chain drop works pretty well as in couniting the metres - but I have a fortnuate coincidence in that if I open my stbd saloon window it acts like a mirror and I can see the chain run out and see the marks. Works great.

I dont need to "start" the anchor - it sits ready to drop.

Up anchor though i usually do it from the bow unless conditions are fairly benign. Usually give the boat a little forward push - back to neutral and then go forward to watch the angle, however if there is crew on board they stand at the bow and point while I up anchor with the remote.

But hey - no one says you have to use it if your particular boat makes it difficult or less helpful.

[svcambria]

but without any way to know how much chain is out -- how could you do it?

My Ideal windlass specifies 1 foot per second chain movement, so I just count the seconds...

Michael

[daddle]

A remote is useless for singlehanding. Wouldn't use it ever. You need to be at the bow to watch things. There's no hurry on setting the anchor. There can be an issue with retrieval in a blow. But I've managed to figure it out.

It's a foot per turn on this ship. And about a second per foot as well, as someone pointed out.

[duncan_ellison]

FWIW, I just fitted an AutoAnchor wireless remote this season which operates both the Bow Thruster and the windlass plus gives a rode count in feet.

Pricey upgrade, but both myself and the Admiral love it and both agree it was worth the cost.

I've used it to pull up the anchor from the helm and know exactly when it's about to pull up from the bottom. It's also cool to be able to pilot the bow towards a mooring ball from the bow.

Duncan

[Sabbatical II]

A single hander I know just doubled the size of his windlass so that he can pull the boat up to the anchor on the windlass for retrieving. It's sounds logical but don't know if there's a downside to it.

Greg

[Roy M]

I have several remote switches for my windlass, as well as a Quick chain counter and remote unit. The remotes allow you to move about the windlass, well away from the moving chain, and maintain absolute control. Handy for when some kelp gets fouled and you have to clear it in stages. I also have a counter/control at the helm for singlehanding. With the counter you can leave the hook in the water to rinse off, then go forward to stow it without damage. I also have a rocker switch in the chain locker so I can monitor the fall of the chain. And lastly, there's one in the chain bay aft, where I can pull the chain into a bilge locker closer to the center of the boat when I get ready for a long passage and want to improve the balance of the boat. All my rocker switches have bright red LED lamps to illuminate the area and remind me that the windlass breaker has been energized. These are easy to install. Remotes also allow one to use the capstan, after securing the chain and releasing the brake, as a power winch, say for raising a dinghy, hoisting booty, etc.

[Talbot]

Originally Posted by daddle

A remote is useless for singlehanding.

I have to disagree.

A windlass is not designed to pull the boat up to the anchor - this is a way to burn the windlass out. It is designed to pick up the chain when the tension is off it. Thus you need to be able to drive the boat towards the anchor position.

I have had occassion to recover an anchor when there was 25 kts of wind over the deck and also 2 kts of current. believe me, without being able to move the boat forward it would have been impossible.

Therefore as a singlehander you are left with the need for either a remote windlass control, or a remote wheel and engine control. The windlass control system is simpler and cheaper.