Quick anchor windlass issues

[ProjectManaia]

Hello everyone,
Our quick 1500w, 24v windlass decided to bite the dust so to speak, since i could hear the clicking upon pushing the button i thought it might be the solenoid and changed it. Still nothing except the promising click...
It used to work without problems though it did strike in rare occasions (should have checked right away I know)
Anyways, opened the windlass on the new to me boat and found this (pictures below). Cleaned it all up, wd40 on the shaft, figuring it miht be seized up and it could help.
So far no success, whats the next thing to do now?

[LongRange]

It would be useful to completely bypass the solenoid and its wiring, for testing purposes. If you carefully connect the thick 24V cables straight across the up OR down poles on the windlass, it will either come alive, in which case the problem is somewhere in the wiring, or it will stay dead in which case the motor may be the culprit.

If the electric motor is truly dead-o, in the sense that even connecting it straight across the batteries does nothing (useful), either the copper coils are burnt out, the commutator is worn out, or the brushes are no longer making useful contact with the commutator. All those things can be fixed, given tools and expertise, but given how pitted and corroded that base plate looks it may not be worth such investment.

[Dsanduril]

At a guess from the symptoms, the brushes in the motor. If they are worn out the solenoid can be fine and the motor just won't run (won't even take any current). We have a 1400W Quick motor that takes Bosch starter motor brushes (waaaay cheaper than getting them from Quick), part #1007014100. Don't know if the 1500W takes the same but wouldn't be surprised. They are 9 x 13 mm and when new are 25-26mm long (probably 1 inch in original design). Take the back off the motor and check the length of the brushes. It may work for a short while if you clean out all the dust, but if they are short then they should be replaced.

[ProjectManaia]

Ok, will check those things, starting with bridging the solenoid tonight. Any advice on carefully dojng it? Connect a cable with the fuse out and then fuse back in I suppose? Got a breaker there anyways so that would be easy....

[daletournier]

A mate of mine who posted on this forum recently had his quick stop (minimal) hours. Same windlass as yours.
Had the same solonoid clicking as you. It turned out a seal had gone and filled the electric motor with oil. He cleaned it out thoroughly, replaced the seal and all is well.

[whynot929]

So I'm a bit reluctant to admit this since the answer was simple. As a way of excusing my ignorance, my boat is new to me and my previous boat didn't have a windlass. Same exact issue a few weeks ago. I would hear the clicking sound, but that's it. I ended up asking the marina to check it out since I have a lot of travel before my next sailing trip. Turned out there was a separate circuit breaker for the windlass. It had tripped.

[Sailshabby]

Don’t confess to ignorance - gloat on the simplicity of the fix! (You’re not alone trying to overthink “new boat” issues)!!

[Starblossom]

I have replaced 2-1500w motors in 4 years. The first was covered under warranty and they made me pay for the second one. I jumped across the solenoid and it worked without a load. It did't work with a load. Use your amp meter when testing and call Quick with the results. They will diagnose the problem for you.
My seal also leaked and filled with oil, they said it was scrap.
Good luck

[philiosophy]

Best answer is to never buy a Quick in the first place. My origional had a oil leak in the case right out of the box. The man in Maryland diddled around not responding and finally ended up giving me a whole new winch minus the shaft in Mexico which I had to pay the freight on, but only because I contacted Quick in Italy. A year later the shaft snapped, again because of poor casting. They sent the parts only because my crew at the time had just graduated from the Landing school in Kennibunk Maine and she threatened to contact her professors with the issues. I have since replaced the internal relays and one of the bolts to the dog has snapped off. Who ever is doing there casting in China is not very good. When I replace this six year old windlass rest assured it will not be a Quick.

[ProjectManaia]

So i just tried to bridge over the solenoid, windlass doesnt come to life though...
So next step is the motor.
Do i have to take it out all the waya. If so just the motor or also the 90 degree angle piece (clutch?)
Any more detailed infos would be highly apreciated!

[Dsanduril]

If the problem is the brushes then they are located at the very 'back' of the motor. There is a plastic cover over the end of the motor away from the drive shaft. Held on by two machine screws (IIRC). You should be able to just remove that cover (depending on getting access) to evaluate/change/clean the brushes and the slip ring. If the brushes are not the problem and it is deeper then you may need to remove the motor to get at other bits.

[ProjectManaia]

Originally Posted by Dsanduril

If the problem is the brushes then they are located at the very 'back' of the motor. There is a plastic cover over the end of the motor away from the drive shaft. Held on by two machine screws (IIRC). You should be able to just remove that cover (depending on getting access) to evaluate/change/clean the brushes and the slip ring. If the brushes are not the problem and it is deeper then you may need to remove the motor to get at other bits.

That sounds great! So fingers crossed it is only that... busy mapping seagrass during the day, but will check in on that tonight and give an update ones I had a look at it.
Do you happen to have a picture of what the brushes and the ring SHOULD look like? Would help a lot for the evaluation...

[ProjectManaia]

Originally Posted by Dsanduril

If the problem is the brushes then they are located at the very 'back' of the motor. There is a plastic cover over the end of the motor away from the drive shaft. Held on by two machine screws (IIRC). You should be able to just remove that cover (depending on getting access) to evaluate/change/clean the brushes and the slip ring. If the brushes are not the problem and it is deeper then you may need to remove the motor to get at other bits.

This is what the "far end" of our windlass would look like... not sure it is possible to just take that off? Or you mean the cap, where the connections are made inside?
the picture is not our exact windlass motor, but looks the same, as I said before ours is 1500W and 24V...

[LongRange]

Originally Posted by ProjectManaia

That sounds great! So fingers crossed it is only that... busy mapping seagrass during the day, but will check in on that tonight and give an update ones I had a look at it.
Do you happen to have a picture of what the brushes and the ring SHOULD look like? Would help a lot for the evaluation...

I couldn't find a specific photo, but to an extent all brushed DC motors look the same:



The brushes need to be making good contact with the commutator, and there needs to be enough brush left to achieve that. If you notice that the brushes are clearly not in contact with the commutator surface, the brushes probably need replacing.

The coils can be tested with a multimeter by simply checking resistance across the commutator pads. If you notice any asymmetry, one of the coils may be burnt out. That can be rewound, given the right copper wire and a bit of skill, but it's one of those "if you have to ask..." things.

At this stage, a multimeter is the best tool to help you diagnose what is wrong.

[ProjectManaia]

Originally Posted by LongRange

I couldn't find a specific photo, but to an extent all brushed DC motors look the same:



The brushes need to be making good contact with the commutator, and there needs to be enough brush left to achieve that. If you notice that the brushes are clearly not in contact with the commutator surface, the brushes probably need replacing.

The coils can be tested with a multimeter by simply checking resistance across the commutator pads. If you notice any asymmetry, one of the coils may be burnt out. That can be rewound, given the right copper wire and a bit of skill, but it's one of those "if you have to ask..." things.

At this stage, a multimeter is the best tool to help you diagnose what is wrong.

Great stuff, thanks a lot! I got the general principle of an electric motor, but it's been a while since I opened one up... Will try get to the right bits tonight and give an update again.... let's hope it is not too much of a bastard to get in there...