New Windlass: Lewmar, Maxwell, Lofrans Or?

[Lewmar Support]

Hello

I am sorry that this has been your experience but this is not the case. what should have happened is you should had been advised that it would be a new gearbox that has the basket attached. There is defiantly not a policy that we have that says that it needs to be a complete unit replacement.

[Muckle Flugga]

Originally Posted by Lewmar Support

Hello

I am sorry that this has been your experience but this is not the case. what should have happened is you should had been advised that it would be a new gearbox that has the basket attached. There is defiantly not a policy that we have that says that it needs to be a complete unit replacement.

Well that is indeed not what I have previously been told, and nor is it what I have heard others being told, who have had the same issue. Indeed if you look up the thread you will find at least one other on this very thread who is not personally known to me who has been given exactly the same impression (e.g. see post no.42). Odd that this would have been such a common view, no? Indeed I have had a rather extended correspondence on the issue some years ago, with Lewmar, as have others I know, so this is surprising to stay the least. Further, why should it not be possible simply to purchase a basket?

[Matt Johnson]

Ok.... now you have me nervous installing the windlass motor inside the cabin and the chain hawse pipe in the anchor locker. If the shaft seals fail that often, I may have to change that as I don't want a leak inside the boat. Or, maybe pull it apart every year to replace the seal.


Matt

[exMaggieDrum]

Regarding above-deck versus below-deck, I have had both and I have worked on many as an electrician. Below-deck is definitely more attractive from an esthetical point. My Lighthouse 1501 is one of those with a nice, small gear and shaft housing above deck and the motor below. But what a PITA to work on. You have to drop the motor from inside to work on the seals and gears of the deck housing. My Lofrans Tigres was a joy to work on, not that it needed much work. Everything is right there and it is simpler. I have had problems with leaky seals on my Lighthouse too and my multi-week rebuild last winter did not fix it. I will try again.

[model 10]

Originally Posted by funjohnson

Ok.... now you have me nervous installing the windlass motor inside the cabin and the chain hawse pipe in the anchor locker. If the shaft seals fail that often, I may have to change that as I don't want a leak inside the boat. Or, maybe pull it apart every year to replace the seal.
Matt

That might be an exaggeration but the seals do fail more often than you like. The location of our windlass has me upside down with the latch for the chain locker digging into my back. I need to do something about that because getting that motor and gearbox off to change the seals is a pain.
We do not sail in conditions with green water over the deck very often. If we did I would undo the anchor, drop the chain and plug that hole. Even as it is, the bilge pump goes off fairly often with just white water over the bow.

[Matt Johnson]

Originally Posted by Guy

That might be an exaggeration but the seals do fail more often than you like. The location of our windlass has me upside down with the latch for the chain locker digging into my back. I need to do something about that because getting that motor and gearbox off to change the seals is a pain.
We do not sail in conditions with green water over the deck very often. If we did I would undo the anchor, drop the chain and plug that hole. Even as it is, the bilge pump goes off fairly often with just white water over the bow.

Our anchor locker is sealed and drains overboard. Behind that is a 1/4" aluminum watertight bulkhead that also supports the inner forestay. Because of the large opening lids to the anchor locker, and not being able to install forward of the bulkhead, I was planning to install the windlass motor and gearbox within the cabin behind the bulkhead and the chain pipe forward into the anchor locker. The other option is to weld one of the lids closed and mount the windlass on that... but then the motor and gear box are exposed. We never had an issue with our Lewmar installed that way on the last boat, but this boats going to pushed hard then the last.

It's a Lofrans Project 1000 and I'm rebuilding it right now.

Matt

[model 10]

Originally Posted by funjohnson

t.

It's a Lofrans Project 1000 and I'm rebuilding it right now.Matt

The chain hole is right over the gearbox. How are you going to do what you plan?
If you can get your gearbox inside and the chain hole outside somehow, I don't think the amount the seals leak will be that much of problem. You will notice that the cover with the winch socket will leak, no mater what you do. Keep the shaft under it greased up and it keeps water from getting down to the seals, a little bit anyway.

[Scout 30]

Originally Posted by exMaggieDrum

Regarding above-deck versus below-deck, I have had both and I have worked on many as an electrician. Below-deck is definitely more attractive from an esthetical point. My Lighthouse 1501 is one of those with a nice, small gear and shaft housing above deck and the motor below. But what a PITA to work on. You have to drop the motor from inside to work on the seals and gears of the deck housing. My Lofrans Tigres was a joy to work on, not that it needed much work. Everything is right there and it is simpler. I have had problems with leaky seals on my Lighthouse too and my multi-week rebuild last winter did not fix it. I will try again.

Can you tell me if it's ok to use a 2 wire reversing solenoid with the series wound motor you had on your tigres by running to the positives on the motor from the 2 outputs of the solenoid?

[exMaggieDrum]

Some windlasses do not provide for both up and down. My tigres did but it was quite old. I believe the current models also provide for either gravity down or powered down.

I had a two solenoid setup for my Lofrans. It gave me up/down control. My boat already came with two foot switches. If I were putting one in I don't think I would bother with the down switch and solenoid. There are solenoids available which do up/down. They are simpler to wire but the duals aren't that hard. I prewired mine on a piece of painted marine ply and then I mounted the ply OUTSIDE of the chain locker. I put it in the most forward locker just on the other side. That meant I didn't have to go in the chain locker to work on it and it kept it dry. I sealed the holes with a cable seal but not totally necessary. You don't want the cables to allow drippage down to the passage in any case (i.e. drip loops). It is simple to troubleshoot the system with your meter when the solenoids are outside.

I highly recommend putting the solenoids (even if they are supposed to be waterproof). You can't water proof the cables 100% as you will at a minimum have the connections exposed. If you do it in the chain locker, then seal the crimps with adhesive heat shrink, secure the cables just before they go to the solenoids and/or windlass (with wire times and clamps), and make sure the nuts are very tight as vibration is intense in the bow.

I also hate going in to the chain locker and working upside down with the hatch in the middle of my back. I used a piece of plywood and some cushions to help with that. But putting a motor on sometimes requires two people - one in the locker and one outside. Depends on the windlass. I'm talking windlass with motor inside in this case. But mounting any windlass can often require two people for the mounting of the windlass.

Regarding water leaking in to the chain locker - remember you will always, always have some water getting in there at the chain hawser. It will never be a 100% seal, or even close. And seals for the windlass should not fail on a routine basis, and those would be oil/grease leaks if there were any. But may be I am not understanding the particular situation you have.

[Matt Johnson]

Originally Posted by Guy

The chain hole is right over the gearbox. How are you going to do what you plan?
If you can get your gearbox inside and the chain hole outside somehow, I don't think the amount the seals leak will be that much of problem. You will notice that the cover with the winch socket will leak, no mater what you do. Keep the shaft under it greased up and it keeps water from getting down to the seals, a little bit anyway.

Just mated the gearbox and deck plate together again to measure. With just over 1" from the gearbox case to the start of the chain hole, and only 1/4" separating the two compartments, I should be able to wrangle it alright.

Matt

[s/v Beth]

I had my heart set on a lighthouse but now I am not so sure. If budget is no concern, what windlass would you guys buy for a fourty footer?

[model 10]

Originally Posted by funjohnson

Just mated the gearbox and deck plate together again to measure. With just over 1" from the gearbox case to the start of the chain hole, and only 1/4" separating the two compartments, I should be able to wrangle it alright.

Matt

I see what you have. You can choose any direction with this windlass. Your motor points back, mine is at 90 deg., the chain comes very close to part of the housing. You will be better off without getting salt water on the motor too.

[GordMay]

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, Lewmar Support.

[Scout 30]

Originally Posted by exMaggieDrum

Some windlasses do not provide for both up and down. My tigres did but it was quite old. I believe the current models also provide for either gravity down or powered down.

I had a two solenoid setup for my Lofrans. It gave me up/down control. My boat already came with two foot switches. If I were putting one in I don't think I would bother with the down switch and solenoid. There are solenoids available which do up/down. They are simpler to wire but the duals aren't that hard. I prewired mine on a piece of painted marine ply and then I mounted the ply OUTSIDE of the chain locker. I put it in the most forward locker just on the other side. That meant I didn't have to go in the chain locker to work on it and it kept it dry. I sealed the holes with a cable seal but not totally necessary. You don't want the cables to allow drippage down to the passage in any case (i.e. drip loops). It is simple to troubleshoot the system with your meter when the solenoids are outside.

I highly recommend putting the solenoids (even if they are supposed to be waterproof). You can't water proof the cables 100% as you will at a minimum have the connections exposed. If you do it in the chain locker, then seal the crimps with adhesive heat shrink, secure the cables just before they go to the solenoids and/or windlass (with wire times and clamps), and make sure the nuts are very tight as vibration is intense in the bow.

I also hate going in to the chain locker and working upside down with the hatch in the middle of my back. I used a piece of plywood and some cushions to help with that. But putting a motor on sometimes requires two people - one in the locker and one outside. Depends on the windlass. I'm talking windlass with motor inside in this case. But mounting any windlass can often require two people for the mounting of the windlass.

Regarding water leaking in to the chain locker - remember you will always, always have some water getting in there at the chain hawser. It will never be a 100% seal, or even close. And seals for the windlass should not fail on a routine basis, and those would be oil/grease leaks if there were any. But may be I am not understanding the particular situation you have.

Thanks for the help!

[exMaggieDrum]

To Beth: Lots of people have Lighthouse windlasses with no problems. I inherited mine and it was leaking then. It may have a problem that I may never sort out short of sending it to them to fix. They are small and give good support but aren't flexible about making special gypsies for people. I understand that. No one else would either.

I loved my Lofrans Tigres I had before. It was on our 42' boat and would work on a 44' too. But not everyone likes a horizontal windlass on their deck at the bow. To me it is preferred but that's just me as there are other vertical windlasses (both vertical and horizontal capstans/gypsies) that are good. But the Lofrans has one of the very best reputations for reliability of any of them.