Need advice...please look

[otherthan]

ok this is my boats bow and anchor...I will add a fortress23 as primary...will use chain and nylon... I dont want an anchor roller but need to know what mods should I do to make things solid?

I plan to anchor 90%

[Sailmonkey]

I'd add some small roller, not for storing the anchor, but rather to make retreival eaiser, also to keep the rhode on a smoother surface. Other than that, pull up those cleats, check the boltholes for epoxy filler, and make an enormous backing plate for both of them. Sheet stainless or a hefty chunck of wood.

[otherthan]

Originally Posted by Sailmonkey

I'd add some small roller, not for storing the anchor, but rather to make retreival eaiser, also to keep the rhode on a smoother surface. Other than that, pull up those cleats, check the boltholes for epoxy filler, and make an enormous backing plate for both of them. Sheet stainless or a hefty chunck of wood.

ok I will do what you say and make sure the cleats are backed and solid...when you say a small roller, you mean a short roller but still sturdy like 1/4 in stainless?

will this roller have all the load in a storm??

[rtbates]

Don't want a roller????

How do suppose the chain and rode will get from the water across the shear and aboard? Lean over the side and lift straight up? Or just use the chain to create a groove in the shear?

Might want to rethink that!

[Pblais]

.when you say a small roller, you mean a short roller but still sturdy like 1/4 in stainless?

I would agree about the backing plates. Just double-check all the connections. You really don't want that anchor on the loose. If it wiggles even the stress while pounding in chop will slowly work a connection bolt loose. Aside from losing the anchor you might trash the deck before it leaves you with chunks of your deck attached. The permutations of disaster are almost endless.

Something like a roller used on a boat trailer. You'll need side plates and a thick bolt so it can spin. I have two of them on the end of my bowsprit. They work well and are cheap too. It allows you to stand back and pull up the rode including the chain at the end. A boat and a half long chain would be minimal. You'll also need to rig up a snubber and find the best place to tie it off. If you have that premade and handy it will help.

[otherthan]

Originally Posted by rtbates

Don't want a roller????

How do suppose the chain and rode will get from the water across the shear and aboard? Lean over the side and lift straight up? Or just use the chain to create a groove in the shear?

Might want to rethink that!

This is all new to me...have yet to retrive an anchor

the boat has non sins 1964...I figured its not needed?

I what the strict minimum...but still want solid and safe...for now I have plenty elbow greas...if a roller is mandatory I will get one.

[GordMay]

Depending upon your back, a roller isn't at all necessary.

[SkiprJohn]

If you truly do not want a roller then a stainless or bronze rub rail on top of your toerail could help you not destroy your wood toerail. I'd opt for a roller as Paul has pointed out. They don't have to be expensive and will certainly save your brightwork if rigged properly.
You'll be wanting to weigh anchor when the boat is tossing around and its stormy on occasion and you'll have a devil of a time getting that anchor and your chain rode aboard without it touching your toerail if you don't have a system set up.
kind regards,

[otherthan]

Originally Posted by Pblais

I would agree about the backing plates. Just double-check all the connections. You really don't want that anchor on the loose. If it wiggles even the stress while pounding in chop will slowly work a connection bolt loose. Aside from losing the anchor you might trash the deck before it leaves you with chunks of your deck attached. The permutations of disaster are almost endless.

Something like a roller used on a boat trailer. You'll need side plates and a thick bolt so it can spin. I have two of them on the end of my bowsprit. They work well and are cheap too. It allows you to stand back and pull up the rode including the chain at the end. A boat and a half long chain would be minimal. You'll also need to rig up a snubber and find the best place to tie it off. If you have that premade and handy it will help.

the anchor brackets was leaking so I took them off cealed the holes and stowed the anchor in the lazarette...thats where both my anchors will be...I may leave one on a roller when island hopping.
I also have 80ft 5/16 chain and 300ft 1/2 nylon rode...only need new rodes for secondary anchor (30ft chain and 100ft nylon??)

do I need a snubber with nylon?

[otherthan]

Originally Posted by GordMay

Depending upon your back, a roller isn't at all necessary.

I have the back of a minotor...I mouve pianos for a few mouving companies.

[otherthan]

Originally Posted by SkiprJohn

If you truly do not want a roller then a stainless or bronze rub rail on top of your toerail could help you not destroy your wood toerail. I'd opt for a roller as Paul has pointed out. They don't have to be expensive and will certainly save your brightwork if rigged properly.
You'll be wanting to weigh anchor when the boat is tossing around and its stormy on occasion and you'll have a devil of a time getting that anchor and your chain rode aboard without it touching your toerail if you don't have a system set up.
kind regards,

I like the idea of a roller...the first boat I wanted had one little roller and a samson post...I understand how easy it can be to retrive an anchor even in bad weather this way.

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by jobi

ok I will do what you say and make sure the cleats are backed and solid...when you say a small roller, you mean a short roller but still sturdy like 1/4 in stainless?

will this roller have all the load in a storm??

yes, a short roller, just something to run the line over when you're pulling it up. the roller won't need to support much load, and won't need to big.

[boatman61]

Hmmmm.... the bow shroud attatchments raised above deck level so you'd probably have to make a teak or similar V piece to sit snug up and through bolt the roller onto that... which would mean an offset roller or a new fit for purpose roller with a higher cheek on one side drilled to take your bottlescrew...
Maybe look in your chandlers for something like this.... or whatever you reckpn will fit and is upto the job

[otherthan]

Originally Posted by Sailmonkey

yes, a short roller, just something to run the line over when you're pulling it up. the roller won't need to support much load, and won't need to big.

I dont quit understand how anchoring works? I guess the rode is suported by the roller right? if so this little thing will bend in all directions in bad weather???

[Mark Johnson]

I agree with the "you need a roller" guys. You may not have a good back, but when you pull that anchor up with 40 pounds of dense mud stuck to it, you'll be wishing you had a roller.

You should be aware that ANY "lightweight" or Fortress/Danforth type, and their clones, are not safe to use "by themselves", as a primary. It is fine to use them if it has another anchor in the opposite direction as well, like a Bahamian moor, but not as your ONLY anchor.

Used alone, if the current or wind reverses and the anchor flips over, it can be fouled by dense mud, a small chunk of coral, a beer can, or conch shell. Debris like this is EVERYWHERE, and fouls the hinge. They will reverse and reset 9 times out of ten, but that isn't very safe.

A really good, inexpensive, primary anchor for your boat, would be a Delta 22. They work themselves around in a circle as the winds reverse, rather than pull out and have to reset.

If you had it mounted to your roller, you would find it so much more convenient to deploy and retrieve.

BUT... If the weight on your bow is of concern, you could use two Fortresses, and one would hang from the stern rail, or elsewhere. This is sort of what I did on my first boat, a Wharram 23... used two Danforths opposing each other.

Good luck with your project, M.