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Old 12-06-2013, 08:39   #31
cruiser

Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Tampa Bay area
Boat: Hunter 31'
Posts: 5,731
Re: Midship Cleat

Quote:
Originally Posted by tsl View Post
Thanks for the input. Yes, I must agree, a midship cleat is best but I would have to notch the toe rail for a fair lead / chock and that would require removing it to properly anodize the raw aluminum. My toe rail bolts are glassed in (no leaks and I plan to keep it that way). I'll someday replace the toe rail completely and then add the midship cleat. Until then, a snatch block seems to be the way to go.
Again I need this for docking maneuvers not to tie up the boat. The cleats I have now are sufficient for that.
I like running a line from the bow cleat and using a snatch block midships to maximize the length and therefore the stretch but I must admit that asking an inexperienced guest to attach this line to that (midship)cleat and toss it to the attendant when we approach (under the lifeline please) is very simple while asking them to rig a line to a forward cleat (that you can't see clearly)and set a snatch block is too much to ask and asking for trouble.
Again thanks for the input and I think we all agree on the value of a spring line attached to a midship cleat for short handed docking.
Too bad they were not always installed at the factory.

If you need people to help you with those things you have to show it to them and have them practice it ahead of time. People get real weird when you're docking and leaving, sure they need to be helping even if they haven't got a clue what to do.

I know someone who had a perforated rail on his boat. He used snatch blocks to feed his Genny sheets to the cockpit (the boat needed a LOT of work).
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Old 12-06-2013, 08:42   #32
cruiser

Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Tampa Bay area
Boat: Hunter 31'
Posts: 5,731
Re: Midship Cleat

Quote:
Originally Posted by tsl View Post
Thanks for the input. Yes, I must agree, a midship cleat is best but I would have to notch the toe rail for a fair lead / chock and that would require removing it to properly anodize the raw aluminum. My toe rail bolts are glassed in (no leaks and I plan to keep it that way). I'll someday replace the toe rail completely and then add the midship cleat. Until then, a snatch block seems to be the way to go.
Again I need this for docking maneuvers not to tie up the boat. The cleats I have now are sufficient for that.
I like running a line from the bow cleat and using a snatch block midships to maximize the length and therefore the stretch but I must admit that asking an inexperienced guest to attach this line to that (midship)cleat and toss it to the attendant when we approach (under the lifeline please) is very simple while asking them to rig a line to a forward cleat (that you can't see clearly)and set a snatch block is too much to ask and asking for trouble.
Again thanks for the input and I think we all agree on the value of a spring line attached to a midship cleat for short handed docking.
Too bad they were not always installed at the factory.

You don't have to notch the rail (something I personally would not do). Just put the cleat on a raised bed. You could do it right next to the toe rail and you might not even repeatedly stub your toe on it ...
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Old 12-06-2013, 08:43   #33
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Tampa Bay area
Boat: Hunter 31'
Posts: 5,731
Re: Midship Cleat

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bash View Post
For the usage you describe, the best course of action would be to install a properly backed midship cleat. The real thing, not a slider attached to a track.

I have had proper midship cleats on my last two boats, and they're the bees knees. The larger a boat gets in terms of LOD, the more useful they become.

On the other hand, if it's only going to be used for a few minutes while docking, you could keep it simple -- just clip on to the toe rail. Just sayin'.
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