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Old 31-03-2013, 08:02   #76
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Re: Marking Anchor Chain

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Exactly, we do each 60'. I only added 30' in between markers to make it easier to count when it's running out fast. I find that most boats have way too many markers.
I agree, we do have a lot of chain markers. For us the reason is because we anchor in some tight anchorages like the box in Cutty Hunk or Block Island and we always seem to be in 5 or 6 feet of water with a draft of 3-1/2 feet. We gunk hole a lot more with the shallow draft we have now.

The first 80 feet of chain seems to get the most viewing and you have to be pretty accurate in tight anchorages.

With our Catalina 380 we were always in deeper water with a 6 foot daft we tended to stay in 8 to 10 feet of water and marked the chain every 25 feet.
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Old 31-03-2013, 08:27   #77
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Re: Marking Anchor Chain

I lower my anchor chain by hand, and pay out chain gradually, so I can feel the zip ties though usually I am doing this with daylight. I personally prefer to work by ambient light, even at night, so as to preserve my night vision. The running lights usually provide more than enough light to see what is going on. If continuously cruising and anchoring every day, I lose a zip tie once every few months, but they are easy to renew.
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Old 31-03-2013, 08:46   #78
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Re: Marking Anchor Chain

3 cans of spray paint; Red White Blue. Paint a foot or two at each interval you want to keep track of...ie: Red at 50 ft, white at 100 ft, blue at 150 ft. It'll last about a year. I've used flourescent fishing lure yarn tied to a link or two before also. It'll last longer than tie wraps, the windlass seems to break them off pretty fast.
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Old 31-03-2013, 08:48   #79
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Re: Marking Anchor Chain

We mark every 50' with red paint, but we also use 10' marks b/c we mostly anchor in <20' feet, and often under 10'. This will change as we head off down the St. Lawrence next year. We usually repaint every 3 years, but I'm going to try the tie-wrap idea this season. Seems like they would be way-easier to replace as the get scrapped off.
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Old 31-03-2013, 08:51   #80
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Re: Marking Anchor Chain

Use rustoleum primer before painting whatever color you paint. Not only will the color last a lot longer, but when it starts to wear the white shows through and lets you know the marker is going by. Then study the remnants to see what color it is.
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Old 31-03-2013, 09:48   #81
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Re: Marking Anchor Chain

I figure I don't need a mark before 50 feet because I draw 5.5', so I rarely anchor in less than 6' of water, if I can help it, and my bow height is 4 feet, meaning I need 5 x 10' = 50 feet for 5:1 scope. I usually put out at least that much to set the anchor, and then if it is crowded and not blowing hard I can shorten up as necessary. But, it is very rare I don't put 50 feet of chain down.
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Old 31-03-2013, 10:43   #82
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Re: Marking Anchor Chain

After trying many different methods I am sold on simply winding 6 ft of different color 1/4 inch line in and out of the links every 30 ft. I use red/yellow/green then I repeat all colors once. Does not foul windless, they don't come out and after two years still working.
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Old 31-03-2013, 12:37   #83
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Re: Marking Anchor Chain

Mike, if you're headed down the St Lawrence next year, stop in Charlottetown for a visit. We haven't talked with fellow cruisers in quite a while. Perhaps we might have some info on an anchorage or two between PEI and the Bahamas, or Bermuda, or Azores.... Either way, we'd love to meet you if you're in the area.

In regards to marking anchor chain, my wife and I used cable ties. One at 10 metres, two at Twenty metres etc...
Cheers.
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Old 31-03-2013, 13:10   #84
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Re: Marking Anchor Chain

I have 300 feet of chain and an electric windlass. Mark every 50 feet with 3 cables ties, each set a different color. When one breaks off (every few months?), add another. Also, my electric windlass goes down at 25 feet per 50 seconds.
I have dragged twice, both times, I checked and the anchor was buried, and the depth was 10 feet. 70 feet of chain the first time, and 100 feet the second. Using an "oversize" Manson Supreme anchor.
For serious cruising, I don't consider a power windlass a luxury, but a safety item. You decrease the temptation to say "the anchor could be set well enough, unless the weather picks up".
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Old 31-03-2013, 13:21   #85
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Re: Marking Anchor Chain

Kettlewell, Your micrometer reference reminds me of the old saw; "Measure it with a micrometer / mark it with chalk / cut it with an axe".
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Old 31-03-2013, 14:35   #86
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Re: Marking Anchor Chain

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I have dragged twice, both times, I checked and the anchor was buried, and the depth was 10 feet. 70 feet of chain the first time, and 100 feet the second. Using an "oversize" Manson Supreme anchor.
C Spots, please explain the dragging. You had proper scope out and said the anchor was buried, and were using a modern anchor. How did it drag? Was it just plowing through the bottom? What type of bottom? Its a little discouraging to hear a Manson Supreme dragging when depolyed properly.
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Old 31-03-2013, 16:07   #87
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Re: Marking Anchor Chain

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C Spots, please explain the dragging. You had proper scope out and said the anchor was buried, and were using a modern anchor. How did it drag? Was it just plowing through the bottom? What type of bottom? Its a little discouraging to hear a Manson Supreme dragging when depolyed properly.
PLEASE! Lets not get that started! This is about chain/rode markings.
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Old 31-03-2013, 16:17   #88
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Re: Marking Anchor Chain

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PLEASE! Lets not get that started! This is about chain/rode markings.
Its a free world and this thread has been flogged to death anyway. But if it makes you happy, he can PM me.
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Old 31-03-2013, 16:33   #89
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Re: Marking Anchor Chain

Could I have a copy of that PM?

Thanks.
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Old 31-03-2013, 16:39   #90
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Re: Marking Anchor Chain

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Nick,
Your post begs the question. Why leave an anchorage when the wind is blowing 40 knots?

regards John
I wouldn't. Our problem is that we are 58 feet and 55,000 disp. There is no chance ever of us man-handling the 120 # anchor and 1700# of chain. Never mind that my back would never survive hard-core manual retrieval. I never lift of pull anything without some combination of power and belaying equipment.

If the wind, even moderate, was pushing us towards shore, manual hauling would be problematic.
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