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Old 17-11-2009, 23:39   #16
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Just sounds like you maybe missing some horsepower Harry. Once the connection hits the roller you don't have much, almost no, lever to use to get the heavy fluke end to raise hence getting the shank horizontal to come aboard easy. It's pretty much a horsepower exercise to get that fluke end up before you can pull aboard.

I don't see any anchor, assuming the same weight, will be much easier. An alloy one will due to weight, a Raya/Spade/Sword probably would as they have a crescent shaped shanks rather than the usual straight.

Have you tried, assuming the rode doesn't get tangled in a furler or something, standing up hence pulling more upwards to get the anchor over. Just thinking that you'd be trying to pull it over a 35-45 degree corner rather than a 90 degree. Sorry if you've been this way already just trying to think of options here.

One other option, again assuming you have room, is to add an other roller, say 6" further out but a bit lower than the existing. Again a way to remove the 90 degree corner and make it more 45 degrees.

Anchor winch. The real lazy mans friend

Couldn't post a photo of you bow could you, preferably a side on shot? I do like a challenge and think I've just found one to skive off for a little at work tomorrow.

Interesting prices on the racer V's Fortress Harry. Here the Fortress is about the most expensive anchor around. The old freight costs I suppose.

Danforth pattern anchors do prefer soft over hard bottom types. Steel ones will set in harder bottoms than alloy versions due to the extra weight. Once in both hold the same, assuming the same fluke area.

The big bonus the Fortress has over the Guardian is the Mud setting. You can open the fluke angle up on the Fortress to 45 degrees and in a soft bottom that is all good. Interesting side note - The Raya also have the ability to have varying fluke attack angles so pretty much has a hard and a soft bottom setting. A feature I do like a lot.
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Old 18-11-2009, 06:03   #17
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go to home depot and get a 6 pack of cheap work gloves. That will at least solve the gluey mud on the hands problem
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Old 18-11-2009, 07:10   #18
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I have a bruce and a delta and both drag in soft mud. Most areas around here (Central NC coast) have firm mud or sand and they hold fairly well. I'll be looking for a danforth type for soft mud. I've found that the delta has a hard time setting in grass but once set it hold quite well. I've not done the chesapeake yet, but if it's mostly soft mud I can't recommend either the bruce or delta.
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Old 18-11-2009, 07:44   #19
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I have a Manson, Bruce and 2 Fortress anchors aboard (gave away my CQR) I have been in the Chesapeake now for 2 years. After the first year, I removed my Manson as my primary anchor in favor of the Fortress 35. Not that I don't LOVE my Manson, it is just that my Fortress' are a bit easier to handle with my set-up. They hold WONDERFULLY in mud. That is their forte'. In sand, I'll go back to the Manson, for rock, the Bruce. If you research most of the lit, all the anchors have a medium in which they will behave better than other types of anchors.

For the Chesapeake, which is almost all mud I believe, you get superior holding AND the decrease in weight. I'd still use a minimum of 20 feet of chain, then rope. I'd also MAKE certain you get the MUD flap! Fortress will send you this option for FREE (okay, they did when I bought my anchors). It really helps with the setting in soft mud issue. Your back will definitely thank you. But... Lets talk about that windlass thing....
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