Madcap anti-anchor angel mooring idea?

[RaymondR]

If it's a personal mooring with only your boat ever on it, I would extend the endless rope up to just below where the single tail line goes over the bow roller so that it's never in the water and if you keep it greased it will probably last forever and never become a weak point.

[wsmurdoch]

My sinker in the mooring that I have in the lake in front of my house is a large old tire that I placed flat on top of a sheet of plastic in my driveway and filled with rocks and concrete before inserting a short piece of pipe stuffed with rags vertical in the center. When the concrete set I pulled out the rags, levered the sinker up on its tread with another longer pipe slipped through the hole, inserted a seriously thick rope thru the hole with a big knot at each end, and set it out on a roll to the lake. When it came to a stop in the water, I fished up the rope, pulled it tight to the bow of my motorboat, and with it dangling just above the bottom moved it to its final location where i dropped it. It has been there 40 years or more ago. I have since "seen" it twice when the lake was emptied completely buried in the sandy mud bottom and invisible.

[Malagueta]

@RaymondR & @WSMurdoch
Thanks, I like to hear those stories.


I would put a larger pipe in the concrete next time I do it tho. At the mo its 50 mm internal diameter, and sheathing the 1" rope is getting tight.

[Malagueta]

My Solution:
At low tide I can inspect all parts of the rode by pulling round the bottom loop

The 6.5m is the rode length not the water depth

Higher scope can be obtained by increasing pennant lengths (which will be eyespliced at ends when required lengths known
One pennant will go through bow roller (with fire-hose) to starboard bow cleat and the other (back up, so slack) directly to port bow cleat

The floatation buoys are mainly to keep the road off the sea bed (lower yellow) and to mark the rode at low water (red), not expecting much 'negative catenary' but they should keep swinging circle smaller under mild conditions

[Malagueta]

I updated the figure and it disappeared from the above post that I now cant edit:

[Eric ROGUE]

I do not know how large or how heavy your concrete mooring is, but it is highly likely three 13lb standard Danforth anchors spaced 120* apart on chains and well dug in will have much more more holding power. I don't have time to look up the references and data, but one of my earlier posts on Cruiser's Forum has the data if not the references the data came from. That was years ago when I was deciding on a new anchor.

It looks like you could add the Danforths to your current setup without too much hassle or expense.

[Malagueta]

Update: all working well but I had to remove the two small rode buoys as they got caught round the rudder at low tide as it changed.


I also increased the length of the pennant bridle to give a scope of 1.5

[Malagueta]

Originally Posted by Eric ROGUE

I do not know how large or how heavy your concrete mooring is, but it is highly likely three 13lb standard Danforth anchors spaced 120* apart on chains and well dug in will have much more more holding power. I don't have time to look up the references and data, but one of my earlier posts on Cruiser's Forum has the data if not the references the data came from. That was years ago when I was deciding on a new anchor.

It looks like you could add the Danforths to your current setup without too much hassle or expense.

Around 350 kg out of water, 215 kg in water and quite flat and will be covered by mud so big enough