Looking for a Devil's Claw with Positive Lock

[DRSandbo]

Thanks Carina.

[Seahunter]

Yeah, don't you hate that bobstay twang? Like Epiticus said, two anchors are better than one, so it follows two snubbers work better too. For those that have a time undoing knots in a hurry; thats why all sailors should carry a knife. A few years back the lack of a good knife in hand caused about $200K in damages when a newby failed to set their anchor BEFORE shutting off their engine. By the time they got it figured out, it was all over as they had wrapped themselves up with another boat. They were trying to save the anchor. Cut it off let it go, it's better than damaging someone else or loosing your boat or worse.

[SailFastTri]

You guys should take a look at the LineGrabber - Secure Line Snubber or Anchor Snubber to any line Shockles LineGrabber. Buy it or make it, and then have many other possibilities. Of course there's nothing wrong with the rolling hitch.

It seems most people don't trust themselves to make a splice or tie a knot anymore. It's not that hard to learn and I find it sort of therapeutic, when I'm able to make something out of rope.

[SailFastTri]

Originally Posted by Palarran

Thanks for the info Laidback and SeaHunter. I don't think I was suggesting that boats not use a bridle but I didn't realize that all boats used a double line attachment like you do with catamarans. Anyways, I like your suggestion of the locking hook. It certainly is beefy enough. How do you think it will fair with saltwater? They are made of powder coated steel.

For the immediate time I've ordered a Wichard snap hook. It's 3700 lb working load is the strongest I've found so far. What I'm not sure of is how to attach it to the bridle thimbles. Webbing?

Take a look at this video. You can make your own line grabber out of heavier Dyneema. There is nothing easier than a 12-strand single-braid loop splice (I prefer the modified Brummel but a straight "bury" will do the job if you sew it with a lock stitch). The 6mm stuff they're using has a breaking load close to 6,000 lbs (the Shockles company is rating it at 2,000 maybe because they didn't do the bury as far as they should). You could use 5/16" or 3/8 Amsteel for even more strength.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZooVF...layer_embedded

#!

[Seahunter]

That's a good setup if you're not using ALL chain. I agree that the Shockles are a little light, but that's why I use 2 of them in a bridle. One doesn't want the bridle stronger than your ground tackle, or it might be over before you knew it. If both Shockles failed, at least I'd get a warning and I also have the windlass backed up with a devils claw. I use the setup you added with my picnic set or stern anchor for which it works well because it can be adjusted easily to one side or t'other if you have davits, your dinghy tied up or whatever hanging off the stern of your boat.

[SailFastTri]

Originally Posted by Seahunter

That's a good setup if you're not using ALL chain. snip.

It should work equally well with chain. Dyneema is THE most chafe-resistant synthetic material. What they're showing with the use of Dyneema loops is very similar to the grip of a rolling hitch, and for many years people have been using (much less chafe resistant) nylon rope with a rolling hitch as a "proved" method of securing a bridle or snubber to chain or rope.

[Seahunter]

Dyneema might make a lot of claims, however, salt, sun and water makes short work of it in the end. Leave a piece of it tied to your railing. It turns to dust in less than 6 months. I'll stick to whats worked for hundreds of years, metal.

[SailFastTri]

Originally Posted by Seahunter

Dyneema might make a lot of claims, however, salt, sun and water makes short work of it in the end. Leave a piece of it tied to your railing. It turns to dust in less than 6 months. I'll stick to whats worked for hundreds of years, metal.

That's just not true. You should be able to get 5 years from it and still be above 50% of rated load, even in the tropics.

However, thickness counts because the surface UV damage doesn't go all the way through. Thinner line should be replaced sooner than thicker, perhaps on a 3 year cycle, whereas thicker line would be on a 5 year cycle or even longer.

Big ship hawsers and tow lines are all moving toward using Dyneema now. It's stronger than equivalent diameter of steel cable and a fraction of the weight. They wouldn't use it if it didn't have a decent service life.

[colemj]

The stuff that turns to dust in less than 6 months is polypropylene line. While dyneema is also shiny and slippery, it is much different.

We have a piece of it being used as a chain stop at the windlass. It has been on the bow in direct sun, salt and water for 4 years with no signs of weakness or degradation.

If you are worried about UV, just slip a cover from an old cored line over it.

Mark

[Laidback]

If a chain hook is required with a locking pin and designed to take the load - without regard to price.
McMaster Carr :-

[wildbillinak]

where can the Italian claw be found

[CarinaPDX]

Wildbillinak:

It can still be bought at the Canadian web site in post #45

[akio.kanemoto]

Originally Posted by SailFastTri

It should work equally well with chain. Dyneema is THE most chafe-resistant synthetic material. What they're showing with the use of Dyneema loops is very similar to the grip of a rolling hitch, and for many years people have been using (much less chafe resistant) nylon rope with a rolling hitch as a "proved" method of securing a bridle or snubber to chain or rope.

Sorry if this is a dumb question - but would making a home-made "line grabber" (just two eye splices right?) out of double-braid/covered spectra also work? I would imagine that this would be more UV proof too right?

(the reason I mention spectra is that dyneema is a pain to get here in Australia)

[Ocean Girl]

Does anyone know why the dyneema line grabber website does not show an example using it directly to chain? I love the idea, anyone use it directly to chain? Is there a problem of sliding? Sorry if this is a silly question, but us blondies gotta ask at least one silly question a day or our heads explode
Erika

[lorenzo b]

If you want to connect one chain to another, use a bolt with two washers and two nuts, tighten it down and go back to sleep. The space inside the link is 50% bigger then the thickness of the chain, so the chain will break before the bolt. When you tighten it down, there is no movement and no wear.
If you need bling bling, try Tiffanys.