Lofrans Tigres Windlass

[SV Demeter]

I too am looking for help refreshing my Tigress. I removed it from the boat and want to replace seals, change oil, and return to service with new fasteners and insulators. Is IMTRA the place to get parts? Im in Annapolis, MD USA. Is anyone aware of a rebuilding manual or is one really needed? Looks pretty straight forward to me. I see IMTR has a Seal kit and a fastener Kit as well as several other "Kits". Any advice from those who have rebuilt there's on what kits to get or parts they needed?

[thomwessels]

SV Escape Plan, RE: Tigres windlass, I don't find the receipt but am sure it was IMTRA on the east coast (RI? MA?)that I got all the seal/bearing kit. They are very helpful and have everything needed, including the upgraded seal for the cover / motor. Someone here mentioned using screen splining - that works too. It was fairly straight forward rebuilding mine but I had some surprises. The front oil level window simply presses in and has an o-ring. Can't go wrong taking it out and it's not a bad way to replace the gear oil...though you will have a mess on deck unless you catch it. They send you an exploded drawing with the kit. Big surprise was the way the 'pinion' gear comes out with it's bearing when you try to worry the ring gear back in. Look at the way the parts come out, put them back in the same way. Ours works great for us.
Thom CROSSROADS, 39' Horstman tri

[GordMay]

Lofrans Tigres Windlass Owner's Manual:
➥ http://www.imtra.com/downloadTypes/C...kon_manual.pdf

➥ IMTRA Marine Products

From the Imtra Knowledge Base:
It's not uncommon for the sight glass to cloud up. If you decide to replace the window you can order part # LWPOW003.
It calls for 17oz (1/2 liter) of 85-90 weight gear oil. If there are no signs of a leak, it is likely okay. There are two ways to remove the oil. You can unbolt it from the deck, open the oil fill plug and gravity drain it or use a dip stick hand pump extractor to remove the old oil. This doesn't drain it all so don't add all 17oz. Changing the oil is typically done when the seals are replaced. Lofrans has a replacement/maintenance schedule in their operators manual but those are rough guidelines. The more frequently, the better.
As far as general maintainence, you should remove the gypsy and rope drum every year and clean the parts with mineral spirits, lightly grease and re-assemble. Every couple of years you should remove the motor cover from the body and check the wire connections on the motor. The best thing you can do for the windlass is to wash it down with fresh water as often as you can.

[SV Demeter]

Looking like I will order the Seal Kit A, the Fastener Kit B, Set of 4 isolators for the base where the SS bolts pass through, and a new sight glass and fill plug for the oil. My sight glass and fill plug both have plastic components that are severly UV degraded. Im assuming all will be in stock via IMTRA, price looks like about $170 plus shipping.


Hoping the motor checks out ok but will probably give to local starter/Alternator shop for testing and refit. I was having some issues last season with the unit not working, but solenoids clicking. I would kick the motor housing and it would start turning. Suspect sticky brushes in the motor but time will tell.

[GoldenDawn]

SV Excape Plan

how did the planned Lofrans rebuild go? Any additional wisdom?

[thomwessels]

Golden Dawn, I found the windlass to be very easy to re-seal and exceptionally well (read simply) designed. It has a pinion gear (off the motor) and a ring gear. That's it!

A caveat, be careful when you r&r the ring gear; it's a very tight fit and you will have to learn 'the art' of this design. Be patient, look at the way it goes apart... and together. Pretty much everything bearing-wise is a light, press-fit.

Also, the oil level view-glass is a press-in item, so if you need to change oil...pop it out! I recall it has only an o-ring holding it into the case, so the problem of changing oil is not really a problem at all. That's the way I'll change oil from now on.

Lofrans got it right with this Tigres.

Thom
CROSSROADS, 39' Horstman tri

[SailNomad]

I know that this is an old thread.
Does anybody know how to use the manual handle in case if the motor fails ?
I tried it but I could not figure it out. Somehow I suspect the bolt on the port side needs to be loosened but it does not seem to do the job
Thank you

[hummingway]

Originally Posted by SailNomad

I know that this is an old thread.
Does anybody know how to use the manual handle in case if the motor fails ?
I tried it but I could not figure it out. Somehow I suspect the bolt on the port side needs to be loosened but it does not seem to do the job
Thank you

There's no trick I'm aware of. Insert the pawl, adjust your patience level and start working it. What are you experiencing?

[SailorHarry]

Have a look at the January 2011 issue of Ocean Navigator magazine for my article on rebuilding the Lofrans Tigres windlass. It is an excellent piece of equipment.

If you decide to add a second key and keyway on the shaft as per my article, best machine shop practice is to add the second keyway and key at 90 degrees to the existing key and keyway, rather than at 180 degrees per my article. Even I learn as time goes on.....

Harry Hungate

[delmarrey]

Originally Posted by SailorHarry

Have a look at the January 2011 issue of Ocean Navigator magazine for my article on rebuilding the Lofrans Tigres windlass. It is an excellent piece of equipment.

If you decide to add a second key and keyway on the shaft as per my article, best machine shop practice is to add the second keyway and key at 90 degrees to the existing key and keyway, rather than at 180 degrees per my article. Even I learn as time goes on.....

Harry Hungate

An FYI; 180º keyways are primarily used for sliding couplers/drivers. IAW's a cheap spline.