Lofrans Emergency Anchor Return

[Darby695]

I have owned a Lagoon 380 S2 2006 for 5 years now ( I am posting this on the Lagoon section as well) and have watched the "YouTube Video " on the power failure anchor return.
I was pleased with the system shown, however since my solenoid has has been intermittently clicking which at this stage can be resolved with a light rubber mallet tap to the housing.
I subsequently went to practice the ratchet system to raise the anchor, HOWEVER , no spool with the hole to insert the supplied handle. (Was this a standard for this winch model )

Anyone know of a way to remedy/ adapt / rerig this failing.
Also I have removed lightly sanded and cleaned the carbon bushes which have plenty of meat left, however 2-3 weeks later the problem returns, other suggestions please. 4 new brushes are $620 AUD

Thanks again in advance for assistance. ( photos available if required)

Darby

[sv Grateful]

Without knowing the exact winch model on your boat, I cannot answer your question.

That said, brushes for a 1000W motor should be closer to $64 than $640. Shop around on line. Worst case, take one of your old brushes to an electric motor repair facility and buy a generic equivalent.

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by sv Grateful

Without knowing the exact winch model on your boat, I cannot answer your question.



That said, brushes for a 1000W motor should be closer to $64 than $640. Shop around on line. Worst case, take one of your old brushes to an electric motor repair facility and buy a generic equivalent.

+1, brushes with springs and holders cannot equate more than $100. They're everywhere!! An automotive starter repair shop will have these in a bin.

[Darby695]

Thanks again,

It's a LOFRANS, TIGRES , TG 012047
1200W. 12 Volt



Photos hopefully attached!

[skipmac]

Perhaps I'm confused or maybe a language difference. You hear clicking in the solenoid but mention cleaning brushes. To me brushes are in the motor and not the solenoid which will have contacts.

So did you clean the brushes in the motor or contacts inside the solenoid? If you cleaned the motor brushes then check the solenoid. These are also more or less generic like motor brushes so if the old one is the problem and can't be opened or repaired you can replace it with any solenoid that is waterproof and has sufficient amp capacity.

Also, clicking solenoid could be an indication of low voltage. Hows the batteries that feed the windlass? Have you checked all the cables for loose or corroded connections. Have you checked voltage at the solenoid? It should be checked under load as the no load voltage could give you a false reading.

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by skipmac

Perhaps I'm confused or maybe a language difference. You hear clicking in the solenoid but mention cleaning brushes. To me brushes are in the motor and not the solenoid which will have contacts.



So did you clean the brushes in the motor or contacts inside the solenoid? If you cleaned the motor brushes then check the solenoid. These are also more or less generic like motor brushes so if the old one is the problem and can't be opened or repaired you can replace it with any solenoid that is waterproof and has sufficient amp capacity.



Also, clicking solenoid could be an indication of low voltage. Hows the batteries that feed the windlass? Have you checked all the cables for loose or corroded connections. Have you checked voltage at the solenoid? It should be checked under load as the no load voltage could give you a false reading.

Ahhh, if we're going the solenoid contact route instead of brushes, then again $640 is nuts!

Depending on where the control is mounted the solenoids don't even need to be water resistant. Our control box is mounted in a dry location about 8' away from the windlass. The outside of the box says maxwell, but inside are these.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Sailmonkey

Ahhh, if we're going the solenoid contact route instead of brushes, then again $640 is nuts!Attachment 154879

Absolutely. $640 whether brushes or contacts is just highway robbery.

Originally Posted by Sailmonkey

Depending on where the control is mounted the solenoids don't even need to be water resistant. Our control box is mounted in a dry location about 8' away from the windlass. The outside of the box says maxwell, but inside are these.
Attachment 154879

I had to replace the bearings supporting the main shaft that holds the gypsy in my Simpson Lawrence windlass. Genuine SL parts, over $30 each. Got the part numbers off the bearings and ordered the identical parts online for a few dollars.

[Suijin]

Just replace the damn solenoid and get a sealed one, if the one you have is not already. The Imtra is @ $120 and will do everything you want it to do, including wiring to a remote.

Lighthouse wanted like $800 for their control box. Uh, no. And it was 8x the size of the Imtra.



When you have to start tapping the solenoid with a mallet it's time has come. It's not going to get any better and it's just a matter of time before it fails altogether. Life will be easier if you replace it before that point.

[Darby695]

Sorry Guys I've been absent from here for a while.
My logic was?
Because the solenoid was clicking with no results till I tapped the actual windlass housing therefore the problem was most likely the motor brushes.