Lewmar Foot Switch problem

[slug]

Originally Posted by Redline452

I saw switches consisting of a dime-size metal disc in the rubber dome, which got pressed down against two contacts. Someone had pushed sideways with a bare foot, dislodging the disc. Just had to open it up and press the disc back into the recess in the rubber dome. Could it be that simple?

Yes This is how lewmar works

Remember three year working life then you throw away the switch

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by slug

Never heard of a hand pendent

He means a wired remote like this:

[slug]

Originally Posted by mitiempo

He means a wired remote like this:

Oh a remote

Quick makes a decent one

They also fail particularly the deck plug

Good idea to buy a spare plug

A very durable waterproof deck plug
Is made by bulgin


ihttps://www.indexmarine.com/product/bulgin-plug-and-low-flange-socket-connector-kit/

[Simi 60]

We replaced the section of deck where our leaking foot switches were a couple of years ago.
Never put the foot switches back in.

Instead went with the 24v version of these for $20 a pair.
Simply connected the black box into the wheelhouse up/down toggle switch and they have worked perfectly ever since.

Full time cruising so they get plenty of use.

No holes in deck, no deck plug to fail, no cords.



https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2PCS-Rec...edirect=mobile

[slug]

Originally Posted by Simi 60

We replaced the section of deck where our leaking foot switches were a couple of years ago.
Never put the foot switches back in.

Instead went with the 24v version of these for $20 a pair.
Simply connected the black box into the wheelhouse up/down toggle switch and they have worked perfectly ever since.

Full time cruising so they get plenty of use.

No holes in deck, no deck plug to fail, no cords.



https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2PCS-Rec...edirect=mobile

I worry about wireless controllers

Put it in your pocket , bend over and accidentally trigger the function

[Mike Banks]

I do not use deck switches to carry the load of an anchor windlass. I use the deck switch to activate a pair of relays safely below decks to switch BOTH poles of the DC windlass electric feeds. If you use a simple deck switch in the positive leg or use only ONE relay, leaving your windlass connected to the negative of your battery just made the galvanising on your chain into another sacrificial zinc.

[Simi 60]

Originally Posted by slug

I worry about wireless controllers

Put it in your pocket , bend over and accidentally trigger the function

Nope.

See near the orange line on the panel?
On off slide switch on the side

[slug]

Originally Posted by Mike Banks

I do not use deck switches to carry the load of an anchor windlass. I use the deck switch to activate a pair of relays safely below decks to switch BOTH poles of the DC windlass electric feeds. If you use a simple deck switch in the positive leg or use only ONE relay, leaving your windlass connected to the negative of your battery just made the galvanising on your chain into another sacrificial zinc.

Deck switches alway control the relay , the relay powers the motor

2 pole electrical systems are the best for marine use

Even with a two pole system , brush filings in a dc motor can cause electricity to flow to the motor chassis , then to earth when the motor activated

Motor maintenance is important

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Mike Banks

I do not use deck switches to carry the load of an anchor windlass. I use the deck switch to activate a pair of relays safely below decks to switch BOTH poles of the DC windlass electric feeds. If you use a simple deck switch in the positive leg or use only ONE relay, leaving your windlass connected to the negative of your battery just made the galvanising on your chain into another sacrificial zinc.

A good windlass has the DC negative isolated from the metal housing

[Jim Cate]

Deck switches alway control the relay , the relay powers the motor

People keep saying t his in windlass threads, but it is not always so. Maxwell windlasses come with high current, high quality foot switches which are quite capable of directly controlling the windlass without the intervention of a relay.

My windlass, Maxwell 1200/1500 has been running this way since the boat was launched (30 years of full time cruising by the original builder/owner and then ourselves). The up switch is 30 years old, the down switch, which I installed after buying the boat, is a mere 15 (about). We live at anchor and move around a lot, so the switches have been used frequently over those years. Relays, which do add some added failure points, are NOT necessary.

And Nick (Jedi) if you want some more reliable foot switches, you might try the Maxwell version. As noted above, they are pretty long lived.

Jim

[wsmurdoch]

Originally Posted by Mike Banks

I do not use deck switches to carry the load of an anchor windlass. I use the deck switch to activate a pair of relays safely below decks to switch BOTH poles of the DC windlass electric feeds. If you use a simple deck switch in the positive leg or use only ONE relay, leaving your windlass connected to the negative of your battery just made the galvanising on your chain into another sacrificial zinc.

I have checked the motor on my Muir windlass. My VOM shows no connection between any one of the three wires [up(+), down(+), and common(-)] and the frame of the motor. The wiring appears to be insulated from the motor frame. How is my galvanizing at any risk?

My motor was made in Italy by CIMA Motori and my notes say that the label says "Code:30553". What is yours?

My windlass is operated directly by Maxwell foot switches which carry the total current to the motor.

Bill

[slug]

Originally Posted by wsmurdoch

I have checked the motor on my Muir windlass. My VOM shows no connection between any one of the three wires [up(+), down(+), and common(-)] and the frame of the motor. The wiring appears to be insulated from the motor frame. How is my galvanizing at any risk?

My motor was made in Italy by CIMA Motori and my notes say that the label says "Code:30553". What is yours?

Bill

.

Carbon brush dust buildup carries - or + to earth on dc motors

[wsmurdoch]

Originally Posted by slug

.

Carbon brush dust buildup carries - or + to earth on dc motors

Like I said, my digital VOM says OL. So, at least in my case your generalization does not hold.

Bill

[slug]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

People keep saying t his in windlass threads, but it is not always so. Maxwell windlasses come with high current, high quality foot switches which are quite capable of directly controlling the windlass without the intervention of a relay.

My windlass, Maxwell 1200/1500 has been running this way since the boat was launched (30 years of full time cruising by the original builder/owner and then ourselves). The up switch is 30 years old, the down switch, which I installed after buying the boat, is a mere 15 (about). We live at anchor and move around a lot, so the switches have been used frequently over those years. Relays, which do add some added failure points, are NOT necessary.

And Nick (Jedi) if you want some more reliable foot switches, you might try the Maxwell version. As noted above, they are pretty long lived.

Jim

I have never seen a momentary switch , push button type ....capable of handling 150 amps

This is always done by a heavy duty relay ... solenoid

The momentary switch controls this solenoid relay

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by slug

I have never seen a momentary switch , push button type ....capable of handling 150 amps

This is always done by a heavy duty relay ... solenoid

The momentary switch controls this solenoid relay

They do exist - halfway down this page:
Winch Accessories