Joining Anchor Chain

[cherikita]

Hi

I would like to join 10m anchor chain. What is the best option to ensure strength and something that will go through the windlass.

The options we've looked are a split link that screws together or a swivel joint.

[bvander]

I would not sleep on a chain rode with a split link. I am a firm believer in solid chain to a HSS shackle to anchor. good bridle/snubber to finish it off.

[Privilege]

If you click on the search feature and then click Google custom search, you can enter your search criteria and Google will just search this site. There's a quite a few discussions on the subject. Good luck.

[ur2slo]

Originally Posted by Privilege

If you click on the search feature and then click Google custom search, you can enter your search criteria and Google will just search this site. There's a quite a few discussions on the subject. Good luck.

And there off..............

[MarkJ]

C hooks. I used one for 5 years anchored for those 5 years.

[kbudd]

Check out a Crosby "missing link" repair link.

Crosby® 335 Galvanized "Missing Link" Replacement Links - The Crosby Group

[vtomanov]

I use one of this type - so far no issues have been up to 45kts wind on anchor...

Talamex Chain Connector or Rapid Link | Bosun Bobs.com

[SailFastTri]

FYI - I just bought a few of these to join sections of G40 5/16" chain. This matches the WLL of my chain almost perfectly. No experience with it yet.

Peerless G43 Double Clevis Link https://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/pee...0000000261819?

[Steve Bedford]

Originally Posted by SailFastTri

FYI - I just bought a few of these to join sections of G40 5/16" chain. This matches the WLL of my chain almost perfectly. No experience with it yet.

Peerless G43 Double Clevis Link https://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/pee...0000000261819?

Would like to know if this connector fits smoothly through a windlass.
Steve Bedford

[SailFastTri]

Originally Posted by Steve Bedford

Would like to know if this connector fits smoothly through a windlass.
Steve Bedford

"Smoothly" not likely. I expect it will bump up and over the gypsy, and won't fall in to the recesses that are a good fit for the normal links. Over time it might add to gypsy wear of the outer portions. But I'd be surprised if it jams. Will post a follow up when I install it, maybe include a photo.

[boatman61]

Originally Posted by Steve Bedford

Would like to know if this connector fits smoothly through a windlass.
Steve Bedford

No...
What you want is one of these.. can be had in galvanised or stainless.
They used to make them much simpler but.. that's progress.

[SailFastTri]

Originally Posted by boatman61

No...
What you want is one of these.. can be had in galvanised or stainless.
They used to make them much simpler but.. that's progress.

I have those in 3/8" but the WLL is 2,650 still over 1,000 pounds less than the 3900 WLL of G40 5/16" chain.

A 5/16" link that would run "smoothly" has a WLL of 1,900 HALF the rating of the chain.

[SailFastTri]

Maybe the best answer is what Evens uses: Right-sized c-link backed by dyneema lashings

[Bill O]

While I was researching a while back on how to link G4 chain, the only connectors that had the same working load as the chain was the double clevis pin link suggested by SailFastTri. IMO it didn't make any sense to knowingly add a weak link into the anchor system.

I'm not expecting any of these links to go smoothly through the windlass and will need to work this chain/link area by hand to not damage the gypsy. Don't anticipate this to be a big problem, as we will only be linking the extra section if we need >350' of chain.

Bill O.

[boatman61]

Originally Posted by SailFastTri

I have those in 3/8" but the WLL is 2,650 still over 1,000 pounds less than the 3900 WLL of G40 5/16" chain.

A 5/16" link that would run "smoothly" has a WLL of 1,900 HALF the rating of the chain.

Osculati Connecting Links have 8 locking pins making them more secure and stronger than standard rivet links
Osculati claim that they have a break load comparable with the chain you are connecting (although this may be Grade 30 chain)
They are manufactured from AISI 316 stainless steel to dimensions close to DIN766 calibration for 6mm, 8mm and 12mm and close to ISO for 10mm so that they will pass through your gypsy.
Link the 2 parts through the ends of your chain and then hammer the rivet ends over so that the link cannot come apart.
Stainless steel welding the 2 parts together would ensure peace of mind.
As with all stainless in contact with galvanised steel, the area should be checked at regular intervals for signs of metallergic reaction.