Help removing pin for brass bow roller

[Spot]

Is the goal to keep the outer part of the bow roller and fix the rolling part of the mechanism?
Since the roller is already binding and there is other play in the system, it seems like it's going to be a do-over of some kind.

I would be tempted to hacksaw or Sawzall between the inner frame and roller to cut the axle rod in one place. Hopefully the short piece would be loosed and come out or maybe both sides would come out. I suspect the rod was swaged from both sides to be a 'hardwareless' install if there are no external pins, etc.

Then the fun begins. The frame and roller would need to be drilled for the next size larger bolts so it can be reassembled. The roller might be best done on a lathe by a machine shop, the frame hopefully could be done carefully on the boat, being careful not to have the bit catch and throw the drill. Then reassemble with a bolt, washers, and locking nut. The bolt would be best if the threads were not riding on the roller or frame.

I like Jim's idea about a zerk, or plan on taking apart every so often to grease/oil.

BTW nice drawing! Here is a mark-up. Let us know how it goes.

[StoneCrab]

Will a hacksaw blade fit between the roller and the cheeks?
Cut the axle.

The bow roller will come right off.

The amount of time wasted fussing with it isn't worth the cost of a new axle bolt. You may be able to improve the way it is mounted if you just cut it out, think it through and rebuild with new parts.

If you want to re-use the roller, the remaining axle can be pressed out of the roller on a hydraulic press without damaging the roller. Ream the hole and put in a new axle.

If I've learned anything over the years, is that when I am stuck, it is usually because I am being too timid about my approach. The hired pro, just brings out the hacksaw, drill or sledgehammer as the situation dictates and doesn't fret about the method as long as the job gets done.

[RPierre]

Just by way of adding explanation to these great responses:


My '78 Ericson 29 appears to have a similar bow roller, but no distortion. I may need to replace the roller to make it compatible with my anchor.


The axle on mine is definitely loose (rotates) in the bracket holes, so it is either press fit into the roller or there is an internal spring clip or ring holding it. It seems to rotate a little inside the roller - but, could be my imagination.


Probably needs to be pressed out, off the boat, or cut.



But, I may first try an old trick: pound on a large drift / punch/ or bolt to try to drive the axle out while someone holds a heavy weight against the other side of the bracket (with appropriate spacers) to absorb the momentum.


If that doesn't work - cut axle on both sides - no clearance to work out the remaining end with only 1 cut.

[Captn_Black]

Originally Posted by RPierre

But, I may first try an old trick: pound on a large drift / punch/ or bolt to try to drive the axle out while someone holds a heavy weight against the other side of the bracket (with appropriate spacers) to absorb the momentum.

You risk mushrooming the head doing that, making life more difficult if it doesn't work.

[Apollo366]

I think this is a pretty bad design to start with, so I'd try replacing whole unit with new if it can be unbolted from the deck, inside access is the show stopper, it was on mine.

Barring replacing unit, I'd cut the shaft out and replace with new shaft and rubber type roller. On mine the bolt threads wore through in a year of use so I replaced with a solid shaft with cotter pins on each end. West marine has some hard plastic rollers that come on a fitting for mounting, I bought the whole thing & used the rollers cause they were the correct size & seemed rugged enough to handle chain. They fit well & are a lot more robust than the original.

Your mileage may vary.

[billgewater]

If any of the assembly is distorted, then you have a problem that, as Uncle Bob, (another helpful Aussie) suggests, needs the entire roller problem to be properly resolved by removing the entire fitting and sending it off to a workshop for fixing or better still, replacing it with a better one that is both stronger and more easily serviced.
The other consideration is just what would have caused the distortion referred to?
Sometimes folks just keep on applying anchor lift when the anchor is caught on a rock etc.

[CassidyNZ]

I’m sure I read in the OPs original post that although the pin resists lateral movement it “rotates freely” implying that there is no reason to drill it out. Someone suggested a hacksaw to cut the pin - best idea even if it needs to be cut both sides of the roller.

Once out, it’s easy to drill the cheek holes and maybe the roller to suit a new pin. On my boat I use a self retaining pin in both the rollers and in the top where it goes through the retainers in both anchors to lock them in place at sea.

With these, it’s easy to remove the pins quite frequently for lubrication, roller replacement and just general maintenance.

Image below is the “thin” one (14mm) that passes through 3 cheeks and two anchors. The one holding the rollers in place is 19mm.

[Captn_Black]

Originally Posted by CassidyNZ

I’m sure I read in the OPs original post that although the pin resists lateral movement it “rotates freely” implying that there is no reason to drill it out. Someone suggested a hacksaw to cut the pin - best idea even if it needs to be cut both sides of the roller.

Once out, it’s easy to drill the cheek holes and maybe the roller to suit a new pin. On my boat I use a self retaining pin in both the rollers and in the top where it goes through the retainers in both anchors to lock them in place at sea.

With these, it’s easy to remove the pins quite frequently for lubrication, roller replacement and just general maintenance.

Image below is the “thin” one (14mm) that passes through 3 cheeks and two anchors. The one holding the rollers in place is 19mm.

I think he is saying that the entire pin and roller have a bit of side to side play. If the pin was loose yet not coming free, I don't see how it would be fixed inside a cast roller. But yes, just cutting the pin inside the housing to remove the roller would make progress on this easier for him.

[Uncle G]

Rather than use a hacksaw to cut the pin, I'd use a hacksaw between the roller and the cheek - in order to trim the distorted roller by the thickness of the blade. Stop just before the pin.


Rotate the roller three or four times, and cut down to just above the pin each time, and there will then be a nice working gap between the sides of the roller and what it sits in.


It may scratch the sides slightly with the set on the saw blade, but they are going to be scratched anyway after 34 years.

[sailingdoc]

Originally Posted by Uncle G

Rather than use a hacksaw to cut the pin, I'd use a hacksaw between the roller and the cheek - in order to trim the distorted roller by the thickness of the blade. Stop just before the pin.


Rotate the roller three or four times, and cut down to just above the pin each time, and there will then be a nice working gap between the sides of the roller and what it sits in.


It may scratch the sides slightly with the set on the saw blade, but they are going to be scratched anyway after 34 years.

Here’s the update: successfully replaced the pin.

Tried some of the approaches suggested above. Found that there was a thin retaining ring of some sort on the port side but couldn’t remove it. I ended up sawing through the pin on that side with a hacksaw and was able to remove the roller without difficulty. Glad I sawed that side first, the other side cut wouldn’t have freed it.

After removing, I ground off the distortion with a Dremel tool so that the face was flat.

Have replaced the pin with a 1/2 x 3 stainless steel lag bolt that I greased before assembly and held in place with a lock nut.

Spins now as it should.

On to the next project - replacing lifelines with Dyneema.

Thanks for all of the suggestions.

[Wotname]

And thank you for the update. It is always good to hear about how such issues gets resolved.

[Captn_Black]

Thanks for the update.
Happy it worked out.