Drilling Holes in Anchor Shanks

[model 10]

Originally Posted by motion30

UO TE=Terra Nova;1667728]A small hole, drilled near the center of the shank, will have virtually no affect on the strength of the anchor.

maybe. but it still definitely a spot where Rust will start[/QUOTE]


I made the mistake of drilling a 1/2" hole in the middle of our 25kg Canadian Rocna shank so it would stay on the bowsprit. I worried about the rust but the galvanizing has healed itself. There is no rust around the edges of the hole. I no longer use that hole as I built a new bowsprit.

[Terra Nova]

Originally Posted by HappyMdRSailor

...Take a 1/4" hole out of a 1" shank, and you have a 25% reduction in force required to take the material to the yield point...

Anyone foolish enough to reduce their anchor shank by 25% deserves to lose his boat. (at least)

[HappyMdRSailor]

Originally Posted by Terra Nova

Anyone foolish enough to reduce their anchor shank by 25% deserves to lose his boat. (at least)

Depends if the anchor was 25% larger/stronger than the needed circumstances.... Doubtful med mooring ....

Would I do it??? Oh Hell No.....

[bosun1967]

About 10 yrs ago I had seen the exact same thing. On a dock in Italy I watched a yachtsmen burning a hole as you have in your pics. I asked why he said that when in heavy mud you attach a second line to help rock the anchor loose. If they had done it I'm not sure but that was the reason he gave me.

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by DRS

A few of them are far enough up the shank that they are probably for attaching a trip line to.

Trip line was my thought till I looked at the pics. Your right about a couple being far enough up the shank, one looked to be factory. The others ? Especially one sloppily blown in with a torch.

[TomUK]

First post, and this thread has confused me.... I rarely see an anchor without a hole in, most of those photos with holes are put in during manufacture.. They are keyhole shaped and or countersunk. They are used to put a pin through on the bow to secure the anchor when it's not in use....

Or am I missing something?

[noelex 77]

In photo seven of the Bugel anchor copy the top hole is "factory", but there is a hole just below this that has been filled in with Sikaflex, or similar. It went all the way through the shank.

There is very little metal left between these two holes, but it was still unbent.

[noelex 77]

Originally Posted by TomUK

Or am I missing something?

Welcome to the forum Tom.

All the anchors shown have extra, non standard, holes drilled through the shank

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by Terra Nova

A small hole, drilled near the center of the shank, will have virtually no affect on the strength of the anchor.

To what end securing on a bow pulpit? You specified small, OK I'll buy that. It just didn't look like that was the purpose of most of those. I hope the OP asks the locals and posts.

[J Clark H356]

My anchor roller is set up for a pin to go through the anchor shank and secure the anchor while cruising. It was set up for the 22 lb Delta anchor that came stock with my Hunter 356. I upgraded to a 44 lb Delta and the hole in that shank from the factory does not line up with my pin hole. What we do is have a nylon rope in the anchor locker that ties to the cleat. The "anchor" end has a clip that hooks into the anchor chain that takes the load while pounding through waves, while taking the load off the windlass. The 1/2 inch nylon takes some shock load off the cleat.

On a charter boat in the keys, we had the anchor play out while motor sailing into 10-12 for waves. Each pounding let a little of the anchor off the windlass. We realized the anchor was off the roller and it was a bear to get back on board in the conditions we were in. After that, and on my own boat, I devised the solution above. I think it better than a pin as it is easier to use.


Sent from my iPad using Cruisers Sailing Forum

[delmarrey]

Originally Posted by J Clark H356

My anchor roller is set up for a pin to go through the anchor shank and secure the anchor while cruising. It was set up for the 22 lb Delta anchor that came stock with my Hunter 356. I upgraded to a 44 lb Delta and the hole in that shank from the factory does not line up with my pin hole. What we do is have a nylon rope in the anchor locker that ties to the cleat. The "anchor" end harps a clip that hooks into the anchor chain that takes the load while pounding through waves, while taking the load off the windlass.

On a charter boat in the keys, we had the anchor play out while motor sailing into 10-12 for waves. Each pounding let a little of the anchor off the windlass. We realized the anchor was off the roller and it was a bear to get back on board in the conditions we were in. After that, and on my own boat, I devised the solution above. I think it better than a pin as it is easier to use.


Sent from my iPad using Cruisers Sailing Forum

Same here! I use a hook & line, and a HD bungee to keep up the slack, if any developes.

[noelex 77]

I think in general a rope tie down is better than metal pin. There is no risk of bending and jamming. A rope and it can always be cut in an emergency.

Usually an existing hole in the anchor can be used, or simply a lashing over the shank.

[Vasco]

Originally Posted by noelex 77

I think in general a rope tie down is better than metal pin. There is no risk of bending and jamming. A rope and it can always be cut in an emergency.

Usually an existing hole in the anchor can be used, or simply a lashing over the shank.

[geoff3nebel]

that's a load of weight on the bow...

[zeehag]

the holes are to lighten the anchor so it doesnt weigh the bow down....lol
i use a line thru the shackle at the chain connect, tied to the pulpit.. stays on bow just fine 'n' dandy without changing anything on or about my anchor. works well.