Do you mark your anchor line

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by rslifkin

Markers closer to the anchor can be handy for telling you when you've got the rode basically vertical and are about to start pulling on the anchor to break it free. Not particularly necessary, but sometimes nice to know.

It can be nice to have a mark not too far from the anchor so that you know when it's soon to hit the rollers. I never bothered, because I anchor shallow!

[s/v Jedi]

Y’all are crazy, why a mark at 25’ ?!

Just use small 1mm line, tied to chain links or pulled through the rode, then tied.

1st mark: 60’ this is the minimum rode you should set (1x 12” length of line)
2nd mark: 120’ when 60’ isn’t enough (2x 12” length of line , 1’ apart)
3rd mark: 180’ etc.

There is no reason for intermediate marks. Just learn the distance between windlass gypsy and waterline so you know how much to add when you want a little more beyond a marker. Or just count how many feet per second on electric down thee windlass does to fine tune the scope.

These markers last 5 years or so, just ignore them as they go through the windlass.

[Chotu]

I actually don’t mark mine. I just look at the pile in the chain locker. I have a pretty easy set up for non-marked rode.

100ft chain, then 200ft rope rode. Spliced.

It’s easy to see 50 but can’t think of a time I’ve used 50.

100 is the splice,

150 is 1/4 of the rope gone.

200 is half the rope gone.

250 is half yet again gone.

300 and I hit the stopper (yikes)

So without marking mine, it’s pretty easy to tell. Because it’s not hidden. My chain locker opens right up where the windlass is. And it’s a manual windlass so I can see what’s going on.

When I’m right over the anchor for break out, I just feel that. Plus chain goes straight down and you can’t readily pull more in.

[thomm225]

No markers.

Just go by feel and the usual look of the rode..........

[Captain Puget]

Line counters work for both line and chain. You just have to calibrate them. Very nice to sit in the pilot house and anchor, or use the remote fob if you need to be forward for visibility.

[SV__Grace]

Originally Posted by Orion Jim

I’ve used these for many years. Made of rip-stop PVC. I just loop them through a link and put a couple stitches in to hold in place. They feed though a gypsy with no issues.

+1 on this. They work well for me, they're cheap, only takes a minute to stitch one on, easy to spot and read as they pass by using the windlass, and I don't have to remember a color coded marking system.

Been using them to mark by chain rode for 35 years, but the real test is for the past 5 years of full time cruising living on the hook I've only lost ONE.

[j-hood]

I have tried many different methods over the years and am now FULLY in support of using colored webbing stitched through a chain link. Incredibly durable, pliable—so they don't break off like cable ties, easy, cheap, and roll through the windlass with zero issues. I used waxed whipping line and stitched it in two layers. Never been happier.

[maury]

On my primary anchor rode I used green neon paint set of markings which came out inaccurate and wonky after all these wonderful ideas, urg. Well at least it looks pretty cool, I know what it means and in clear waters I will more easily be able to see my line on the bottom. On my other lines I will probably usa a tag system.

[sailcrazy]

We use a 300' all chain rode, and have tried the multi-colored zipties as well as paint on the chain. None seem to last on our very axis windlass, so we tried using the colored plastic bits that fit inside the link. And they've lasted now for 8+years-without any mx. We start at 75', then every 25', using one color for for 25', another color for 100', and a diff color for 200'....ie 175' mark is one red(100') then 3 yellow(ea 25'). Works well.

[Tudorsailor]

I currently use cable ties but may change to webbing

My coding is simple. Red for 10m and yellow for 5m

So 4 reds and a yellow is 45m for example. I put one cable tie on a link so if one falls off within the group it is obvious. Not so obvious if it from off from the end of the group

TS

[sck5]

why a mark at 25 feet? Because the anchor will be on the roller shortly and it is convenient to know that fact

[Pete the Cat]

Originally Posted by SailFastTri

Spray paint is good. I use tie wraps on all-chain, one for 25 ft. , two for 50 ft, and so on, up to four at 100 then start over again with one at 125 etc. They can get pinched and fall off, so it requires occasional maintenance to add a missing one.
For rope rode I used to buy the commercial numbered tags that you push through the line. Those are very rugged and work well.

I use zip ties in the same way and I like them because you can see how much you are actually putting out in low light and at night without reading or looking closely. I found the commercial tags actually disintegrate faster than the zip ties and are impossible to read from a distance. FWIW.

[j-hood]

If that works for you, it's great, and I mean that! But for me, that's just way too much thinking, adding, too many marks, etc. In the dark it isn't always easy for me to get a perfect view of the tag as it rolls past, so I need big, easy to process marks. My first mark is 75', then 100', 125', and 150'.

That aside, as far as the actual markers are concerned, I remain a fan of the webbing. Not really sure how many bits of plastic cable ties I have left on the ocean floor over the years...

Originally Posted by Tudorsailor

I currently use cable ties but may change to webbing

My coding is simple. Red for 10m and yellow for 5m

So 4 reds and a yellow is 45m for example. I put one cable tie on a link so if one falls off within the group it is obvious. Not so obvious if it from off from the end of the group

TS

[Pete the Cat]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Y’all are crazy, why a mark at 25’ ?!

Just use small 1mm line, tied to chain links or pulled through the rode, then tied.

1st mark: 60’ this is the minimum rode you should set (1x 12” length of line)
2nd mark: 120’ when 60’ isn’t enough (2x 12” length of line , 1’ apart)
3rd mark: 180’ etc.

There is no reason for intermediate marks. Just learn the distance between windlass gypsy and waterline so you know how much to add when you want a little more beyond a marker. Or just count how many feet per second on electric down thee windlass does to fine tune the scope.

These markers last 5 years or so, just ignore them as they go through the windlass.

I use the shorter zip tie markings (20' intevals as noted) to know how deep the water is right where I drop--so I can calculate the scope I am putting out. There are many reasons you cannot put out all the scope you would would prefer sometimes (crowded anchorage--avoiding other boats' gear) and some reasons you would want to put out more or less; for a short lunch you might just put out enough to hold temporarily--for a storm you might lay down a lot more. Competent cruising is about informed judgement and you need real time and accurate measurement to do that.

[lo2jones]

Originally Posted by Orion Jim

I’ve used these for many years. Made of rip-stop PVC. I just loop them through a link and put a couple stitches in to hold in place. They feed though a gypsy with no issues.

I was a charter captain/sailing instructor for most of my adult life, meaning using lots of different boats with different marking methods. These plastic markers seemed to be the best, longest lasting. You can put them in between three-strand as well.