Chain too far gone?

[BrettB]

Was getting ready to use evaporust & cold galvanising spray to take care of the rust on our main anchor chain, when I realised there are some links much worse than I expected...

Now I am considering getting the chain cleaned up professionally and re-galvanized. Or is it too far gone?

We plan to go cruising for a few years and live mostly on the hook. I really don't want to break loose in the middle of the night or loose our brand new 55lb Mantus anchor.

Photos below, thanks for the help!

[Hydra]

On the first and third pictures, some links appear to be badly rusted. I suggest to clean some of them with a stiff brush and measure the remaining section. But yes, its probably too late.

However, a short section could be saved for a kedge.

Alain

[Simi 60]

Chain, meet bin.

[JPA Cate]

Oh, Sim, that's cruel! But you're right: I wouldn't want to go to sleep with that chain!

Sorry BrettB. Is it that they don't have re-galvanizing facilities in your area?

Ann

[AiniA]

Hard to tell where the bad bit is, but the bad bit is pretty bad. The stuff in the background looks pretty good. Can you cut away the bad part and/or end-for-end it.

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by Hydra

On the first and third pictures, some links appear to be badly rusted. I suggest to clean some of them with a stiff brush and measure the remaining section. But yes, its probably too late.

However, a short section could be saved for a kedge.

Alain

I went to using a Dyneema leader with a webbing chafe guard on my kedge. Much easier to take out, and chain is only a detriment to a Fortress. So no chain. The Dyneema is over-sized and leader/guard is probably 20 times more cut resistant than the nylon rode. ( I would not do this for a single-anchor--totally different case.)

But yeah, I keep a few short sections for tie-off and such.

[Jim Cate]

In your place,, I'd stretch the rode out on a dock and inspect the whole length. to me, it appears that there are some relatively short areas where the rust is serious, but with it piled up, you can't see how many, how long or how bad they are.

If the majority of the chain appears ok for regalvanizing, I'd consider cutting out the bad spots and rejoining the good parts with high quality joining links, then take the lot to the galvanizeria. At this point, the usual folks will pipe up with arguments against using joining links. Please take the time to check the several long threads about this subject. For anything but >G-43 chain, the links are strong as the chain itself.

BTW, don't bother with cold galvo... it is useless on chain that is in use.

Jim

[UNCIVILIZED]

Some of it looks salvagable, other bits not at all. And in a couple of the pics, the horrid sections appear to be damp. Which would account for their looking worse. How's the drainage in the locker? Might the drains now, or in the past, have been clogged? And does the chain ever get rinsed with fresh water?

[cabo_sailor]

It almost looks like two different size chains there. Mine started looking like that, I cut off the worst end and turned it end to end. Next cut it down a bit more. I would have regalvanized but couldn't find someone to do it. I finally bit the bullet and gave the remainder decent chain to a friend to use with a chain/rode and bought a new chain.

If you can find someone to hot dip galvanize you might have to go in with a friend or two. Most have minimum weights they require before gunkingup their gear.

[Jacko]

BrettB think it might be time for new chain !!!! After 14years cruising on the reef here in Aust. I have replaced my chain 2 times and re- galved once the coral soon wares the gal and salt rusts the chain left in the locker so here are a few tips I have found which will help you look after you new/ re-gal chain .


1) I have a watermaker so fresh water wash the chain on return to locker


2) purchase some liquid Lanoline and put it in a spray bottle and give the chain in your locker a good spray now and again ( depends on use) this will have several good benefits like the chain will now run in and out better as it is lubricated it now has corrosion inhibitor that has good resistance to being washed off and for me being a steel boat it protects my chain locker. The chain that is in the locker not being used is protected and not sitting there starting to rust !!


3) Make sure if you layup for the off season ( for me Cyclone season) that you clean out your chain locker then dry it out and a fresh coat of lanolin
I have been doing this for a couple of seasons now and the results are terrific

Good luck with this Cheers

[BrettB]

Thanks for the tips Jacko. We definitely plan on adding a fresh water rinse and water maker.

Drainage in that locker doesn't seem great, at least the drain I can see is a bit high and probably has gotten clogged in the past(new to me boat).

Upon further inspection of the 325' of 3/8" chain, looks like the first 225' is not as bad as I thought. The last 100' is where all the trouble is.

The worst of the first 225' is at 7', 23' and 27':



Here are some of the real bad parts between 225'-325':



We found a place not too far away that will do:
"strip and galvanise the chain for $.84/LB, with a $250 minimum."

So I am thinking that I will cut off the last 100' and end up with 225' re-galvanise chain and will flip the ends.

Thoughts after seeing the additional photos of it laid out?

Will also be switching anchors and going with a 55lb Mantus and cat bridal.

[captstu]

Just hook the chain to a swivel - then you will have two choices on where it will break,

Why take a chance, just throw the anchor overboard without attaching it, so at least you will be sure of the outcome.

Most factory chain is to large for the boat, think about downsizing one size and getting a smaller wildcat - less cost - and replacing it when it rusts.

[Davidhoy]

Originally Posted by thinwater

... and chain is only a detriment to a Fortress...

Thinwater, can you elaborate on what you mean by "detriment"? I recently picked up an FX-85 as a backup to my primary Rocna, and in talking with the guys are Fortress (I can literally see their factory out the window of my office!), they recommend about 20ft of chain, then a nylon rode. You need the stretch of the nylon to absorb shock, the weight of the chain to get a good angle of pull on the shank, and the wear-resistance of the chain especially of rocky or coral bottoms. I'd think that dyneema would be a less-from-ideal material for an anchor rode, given its light weight and very low stretch...

Regards,
David

[buzzstar]

Just to throw something into the mix, my quick read found a mention of getting rid of the chain. If you do, try to leave it somewhere where a sailor lower on the food chain could find it. He or she may have a need, and your discard may be a suitable and reliable way to satisfy that need.

[doug cusick]

chain looks pretty bad esp the ends. i have had some luck having the the stuff re-galvanized if the metal is not gone on the links and there is just rust. they sand blast it and hot dip and roll the chain so the links don;t stick together. got another 5 years out of my chain and i'm on the hook in fiji almost all year.