Chain to rope splice

[zstine]

I have a type 1, eye splice, and it does at times get jammed up. It goes around the gypsy fine, but there's no weight on the rope to pull it down through the hole in the deck and the splice gets caught there, just after the gypsy and the chain piles right at the pawl and jams.



I have found a stick is all that's needed to shove the splice through my deck (or someone below to yank the rope down). Since I have 150ft of chain, I rarely anchor on the splice. no big deal for me but maybe a PITA if I had to pass the splice every time I anchored.


I have an Anchorlift vertical shaft windlass.. probably no problem with a horizontal shaft windlass

[Hartleyg]

We have a lighthouse horizontal windlass, and we have about 20' of 5/8" 8-plait spliced with the "#1" method at the end of our 3/8" G4 chain. It's there so we can easily cut the anchor away in an emergency. FWIW, the windlass pulls the line just fine and the couple times I've done it, changes over to the chain with no problems - noting that it isn't having to do more than lift maybe 30 feet of chain at that point!


Hartley
S/V Atsa

[Rucksta]

Thanks all.

Maxwell RC8/8 vertical windlass with a 1.6 mt drop through the spurling pipe.

These will be constants so it looks like it comes down to how well the splice is made.

Time I sacrificed a few meters of new 8 plait and practice both types of splice at either end of a kedging chain and test through the windlass.

I'm leaning towards long splice to spread any possible chaffing and ease of redo / service once the 8 plait has been stressed in use a few times.

After recycling the old warp into dock lines and springers my hands remember how hard eye, end and end to end splices are in old 8 plait.

Cheers

[Benz]

The type 2 splice will allow you to splice a larger diameter line to the chain than the type 1 will. If you try and match working loads of the chain and rope, the rope will be so much fatter than the chain that a back splice will make a huge bulge. If your rope is thin enough, type 1 will be stronger as a splice because there's less friction between links and yarns with thinner yarns. Or you'll have to go further up the chain to get the same result.

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by sv_pelagia

Anyone with experience with rope-to-chain splice and LEWMAR V1/V2/V3 windlass?

Planning to replace rusty (but good) chain and considering adding a good length of rope.

(we have deep anchorages up North in BC)

Yes. I found that type 2 always jammed and type 1 would jam if the splice was tightly made.



However, the solution was an irony splice, which is made in 3-strand. Never a moment hesitation, smooth as silk. Brian Toss told me he was interested in a version for braid, but my impression is that he never got to it.


Sail Delmarva: The Best Rope-to Chain Splice

[thinwater]

As near I I can tell, base on decades of personal expereince, reader comments, and the conversations with anchor and windlass manufacturers, chafe is a non-issue because...


a. The rope does not move vs. the chain. The chafe is only external, and ...
b. The splice will corrode the chain and you should chop off the last few links and end for end the rope every 3-4 years anyway, depending on use.

[CarlF]

Pretty clear which Maxwell prefers:

[01kiwijohn]

Originally Posted by sv_pelagia

Anyone with experience with rope-to-chain splice and LEWMAR V1/V2/V3 windlass?

Planning to replace rusty (but good) chain and considering adding a good length of rope.

(we have deep anchorages up North in BC)

I cruise that same area and use a rope to chain splice. works well, no problems. If the chain is sound, why not get it re-galvanized? I got my 5/16 hi test done, about 5 years ago, for about 1/4 of the price of new.

[chasfgr]

Originally Posted by Rucksta

When splicing 8 plait rope to chain two types of splice are predominant.

Type 1 brings the rope strands through a chain link then the strands are tucked back into the rope.

Type 2 has the rope strands interwoven along the chain passing through multiple links.

Which type works best with an anchor windlass equipped with a gypsy?

What other pros & cons are there with each type of 8 strand rope to chain splice?

My experience is that both work - but far easier to do yourself is the 2nd.
It also seems to last better, and you get fewer jam problems winching in.

[chasfgr]

Originally Posted by 01kiwijohn

I cruise that same area and use a rope to chain splice. works well, no problems. If the chain is sound, why not get it re-galvanized? I got my 5/16 hi test done, about 5 years ago, for about 1/4 of the price of new.

Runout from the chain-locker stains the hull and links jam in the hawse, misaligned and jamming the drum.



It's only marginally cheaper to regalvanise chain and you have to use a specialist galvaniser, who has an agitator.
The rear suspension on the 504 estate, though heavily beefed up, only just coped with 50m of 8mm chain.
Getting it to and from, using a carrier was definitely less economic than buying new.
And I had trade links with galvanisers - which meant I didn't pay through the nose for small batch.
Electrogalvanising is the best bet - but that is really pricey.
And in the case of mooring chain - it's really a no go - far cheaper to buy new (every 80 years if it's on the bottom and slower rusting).

[GarthGregory]

A rope spliced , about a meter in length , from memory - caused substantial rust of that portion of the chain . The chain was well galvanized and because it is that end of the chain , it is little used and yet badly rusted, despite very careful washing at the end of each season . The rust also leaves one concerned as to the condition of the spliced section of rope .
I have now back spliced the rope to a very heavy shackle and will only shackle the rope to the chain when needed . I am concerned about the strength of the shackle ( joint ) , but have more confidence in the shackle than a rusty long splice
or a rusty back splice. The rope and shackle are stored outside of the salty /wet environment of the chain locker and are now pristine .
Any thoughts or comments .
Fair winds

[chasfgr]

I've never had a problem of local rusting at the splice - does your chain locker drain dry?
My chain-rope splice is into the original UK regalvanised chain, which was hot-dipped 21 years ago.

[Smokeys Kitchen]

Originally Posted by 01kiwijohn

I cruise that same area and use a rope to chain splice. works well, no problems. If the chain is sound, why not get it re-galvanized? I got my 5/16 hi test done, about 5 years ago, for about 1/4 of the price of new.

A little off topic - but since I have to get mine regalved this year can you tell me where you got yours done and are you happy with the results?

Thanks,
Ron

[GarthGregory]

You are correct - my locker doesn't drain completely and the drains are about 150 mm above the waterline . The splice section was always at the bottom of the locker , so none of it ideal . Sailing in the Med , anchoring is usually a daily event , so a wet chain is the norm .

On a long 3 x strand splice , my horizontal windlass ( Tiger ) handled the splice section perfectly .

fair winds

[s/v Thea]

Originally Posted by Smokeys Kitchen

A little off topic - but since I have to get mine regalved this year can you tell me where you got yours done and are you happy with the results?



Thanks,

Ron

Ron,

I had mine done at Emerald Galvanizing is Seattle in 2013. Was very happy with service/results.

Doug