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Old 26-06-2013, 23:01   #16
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Re: Chain Galvanization question

[QUOTE=Kenomac;1270833 The cheap Chinese junk only lasts one season according to my friend who accidentally bought some.[/QUOTE]

If it was cheap what did he expect, if it was junk why did he buy it, how did he know it was Chinese (and not, say, Indian?

If he knew it was Chinese was it brand name stuff or just something that even the Chinese manufacturer was so ashamed of it did not have a brand. If it was a brand name Chinese - whose?

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Old 26-06-2013, 23:26   #17
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Re: Chain Galvanization question

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Originally Posted by Iain View Post
I recently purchased 3/8" G40 ACCO galvanized chain.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=876008&catalogId=10001&la ngId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=50304&subdeptNum=50331&cl assNum=50332

I purchased 120' and after inspection it appears to me that the chain might not be properly galvanized.
Below is a closeup of one section of the chain. opnions??


Keep your receipt. If it isn't properly galvanized it will start rusting very quickly.
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Old 26-06-2013, 23:30   #18
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Re: Chain Galvanization question

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I have no doubt it will hold up for a few years but I wonder if it will begin to rust sooner than later and I have spent quite a few $$$ on this investment. I can not exchange it very easily because I purchased it through a friend and because of it's weight.

Maybe I will go to the local WM and see if it looks similar. I have herd a few poeple discussing the quality of ACCO chain in recent years.

It's very hard to return anything that's been cut to length. That said, one of the bad pieces of advice I was given by a supposedly "highly experienced" sailor was to buy chain at Home Depot.

I'm in salt water, but it rusted very rapidly, making a mess of my deck and anchor locker (not to mention my gloves). I've bought chain three times from West Marine and that's never happened.

It will get eaten away eventually. Chain isn't permanent, but the well-galvanized chain lasts considerably longer in salt water than the cheaper stuff from hardware stores. I have a friend who got the good, galvanized chain. He dived his mooring and found that some links were done to 1/16". His mooring was about to fail. Being as it was the start of hurricane season, he hauled it all up and replaced all the chain.
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Old 27-06-2013, 00:00   #19
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Re: Chain Galvanization question

I recently got my chain re galvanized and the result looks a lot thicker than your new stuff.
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Old 27-06-2013, 06:02   #20
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Re: Chain Galvanization question

Thanks for the insight. I am just not familiar with what galvanized chain is suppose to look like.
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Old 27-06-2013, 06:12   #21
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Re: Chain Galvanization question

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Originally Posted by Cotemar View Post
Yes, that is my Snubber Bridal.
Here is what it looks like on the pointy end.



Snubbing brides is generally frowned on, they hate to be left at the altar. I believe that's your bridle.
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Old 27-06-2013, 06:26   #22
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Re: Chain Galvanization question

thankyou, minaret--i wanted to say something about the bridal he was using--i didnt think the style was correct for the brides i have seen in life--they wear white despite...rodlmao....

even goood chain is going to chunk off bits of galvo when anchored in and on rocks--i lost galvo to that in la cruz de huanacaxtle--those rocks were definitely there...
inspect your chain regularly--like before and after you anchor--and you will be fine even with chinese chain. just because the galvo chips and chinks doesnt mean the link under is bad...keep an eye on it...... later when there is an issue, find a texan with a pickem-up truk and drag the chain in the sand for a while, then take it to the galvanizing place and re do it.

chain that LOOKS funny is only a problem with dock queening, when all has to be stainless and shiny.

i wouldnt use ss chain for anchoring. not worth the money you have to spend for the shine
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Old 29-06-2013, 17:12   #23
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Re: Chain Galvanization question

OK, Folks ,there are 2 types of galvanizing i.e. covering steel chain.

1. eloctroplating --a process that covers steel a few molecules thick,fine for a backyard swing etc but NOT for anchoring in salt water. You have just wasted your money.

2 Hot dipped Galvanived .The chain is dipped in a molten solution of zinc and has gazillions of zinc molecules protecting the underlying steel. The only way that all will last. If you read Sestina's post above that is what she did to an older chain ,be even here it must be properly prepared by those doing the work.
Home depot will not have a chain that that is Hot D. G. but any ships chandler will probably only have this type. No points for guessing which type costs more initially and which is way cheaper in the long run.

N. B.:The above Is NO reflection on the underlying steel,Chinese or otherwise.I suppose one could hot dip a noodle and it would not rust ,but it's still a noodle holding your boat.
My guess is that if Gordy May sees this post he will give you links that will let you know more about chain than you ever wanted. Cheers
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Old 29-06-2013, 17:45   #24
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Re: Chain Galvanization question

if you are talking about the gray area that is not bright, that's natural with galvanizing as it ages. I'm always suspect of anything called "galvanized" that is real bright..... I'm betting that years ago there was more lead in the bath than now. Not that there is much at all...
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Old 29-06-2013, 19:11   #25
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Re: Chain Galvanization question

We are lucky down the Bayou, our marine stores sell good USA Galvie chain for less then WM, In fact I don't believe ive seen any China chain down here at all ! Except for Lowes and Home Depoe! LOL Sometimes it very dollar wise to ck with your local marine stores for stuff like chain !! Cus fish boats buy chain to !! and I don't know many fishermen who buy at WM LOL
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Old 30-06-2013, 02:21   #26
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Re: Chain Galvanization question

Slightly off topic, but just a warning about re-galvanizing.

I've just had 90m of 10mm chain re-galvanised (supposedly hot dipped) in Turkey. We had to completely replace the chain as it would jam in the spurling pipe. The galvanizing was rough enough to stop the chain from turning 90 degree's in the pipe.

Short take on a long story, we replaced everything! New Lofrans 1500 windlass, new 90m french 10mm DIN667 chain, new 25kg Rocna anchor. Anchoring is interesting in Greece, some of the ports are maybe only 40m across. Your anchor has to set RIGHT NOW if you're going to get any scope at all. We regularly pull forward between the boats on the opposite side, drop the anchor (hoping that the area is not fouled, unbelievable amount of old chain and rope rode lying on the bottom), back down onto the port and get our stern lines on. The old CQR would just take too long to set (even though we'd never ever dragged once it was set) to cope with Greek mooring conditions. Its lucky that the water is so clear that we can see where the anchor has set.

Another accessory that is necessary is an anchor thief. We just upgraded our small stainless one to a big bronze one. This piece of gear has saved us on many occasions, when you find all of a sudden, in a very small port with no manoeuvring room, that you're hooked onto some old chain on the bottom.

Anchoring a long keeled boat in Greece has definitely been an interesting learning curve. Bring back those Turkish tailing lines!!!

Steve Garlick
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Old 30-06-2013, 07:18   #27
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Re: Chain Galvanization question

Quote:
Originally Posted by steve.garlick View Post
Slightly off topic, but just a warning about re-galvanizing.

I've just had 90m of 10mm chain re-galvanised (supposedly hot dipped) in Turkey. We had to completely replace the chain as it would jam in the spurling pipe. The galvanizing was rough enough to stop the chain from turning 90 degree's in the pipe.

Short take on a long story, we replaced everything! New Lofrans 1500 windlass, new 90m french 10mm DIN667 chain, new 25kg Rocna anchor. Anchoring is interesting in Greece, some of the ports are maybe only 40m across. Your anchor has to set RIGHT NOW if you're going to get any scope at all. We regularly pull forward between the boats on the opposite side, drop the anchor (hoping that the area is not fouled, unbelievable amount of old chain and rope rode lying on the bottom), back down onto the port and get our stern lines on. The old CQR would just take too long to set (even though we'd never ever dragged once it was set) to cope with Greek mooring conditions. Its lucky that the water is so clear that we can see where the anchor has set.

Another accessory that is necessary is an anchor thief. We just upgraded our small stainless one to a big bronze one. This piece of gear has saved us on many occasions, when you find all of a sudden, in a very small port with no manoeuvring room, that you're hooked onto some old chain on the bottom.

Anchoring a long keeled boat in Greece has definitely been an interesting learning curve. Bring back those Turkish tailing lines!!!

Steve Garlick
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Do you want to get rid of that chain- im about ready to buy again- seems like they only last about 3 years in the Med
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Old 30-06-2013, 07:18   #28
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Re: Chain Galvanization question

Quote:
Originally Posted by steve.garlick View Post
Slightly off topic, but just a warning about re-galvanizing.

I've just had 90m of 10mm chain re-galvanised (supposedly hot dipped) in Turkey. We had to completely replace the chain as it would jam in the spurling pipe. The galvanizing was rough enough to stop the chain from turning 90 degree's in the pipe.

Short take on a long story, we replaced everything! New Lofrans 1500 windlass, new 90m french 10mm DIN667 chain, new 25kg Rocna anchor. Anchoring is interesting in Greece, some of the ports are maybe only 40m across. Your anchor has to set RIGHT NOW if you're going to get any scope at all. We regularly pull forward between the boats on the opposite side, drop the anchor (hoping that the area is not fouled, unbelievable amount of old chain and rope rode lying on the bottom), back down onto the port and get our stern lines on. The old CQR would just take too long to set (even though we'd never ever dragged once it was set) to cope with Greek mooring conditions. Its lucky that the water is so clear that we can see where the anchor has set.

Another accessory that is necessary is an anchor thief. We just upgraded our small stainless one to a big bronze one. This piece of gear has saved us on many occasions, when you find all of a sudden, in a very small port with no manoeuvring room, that you're hooked onto some old chain on the bottom.

Anchoring a long keeled boat in Greece has definitely been an interesting learning curve. Bring back those Turkish tailing lines!!!

Steve Garlick
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G'Day Steve,

Never heard the term "anchor thief" before. Sounds like a device that you slide down the chain to free a stuck anchor, and I'd be curious to see a picture of it if possible.

Thanks,

Jim
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Old 01-07-2013, 02:00   #29
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Re: Chain Galvanization question

Hi Jim,

Here's a photo of our new anchor thief. Its bigger and heavier than our first one. YOu lower it down under the snagged anchor chain, line. Pull it up and tie it off. You can then lower your own anchor and release the snag. The beauty is the trip line. Makes it easy to then let go of the offending chain. We've lost boathooks trying to release a chain from a boat hook.

Works a treat, just what you need for those 0300 wake up calls!!

Steve
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Old 01-07-2013, 03:47   #30
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Re: Chain Galvanization question

Sorry, can't figure out how to post a picture.


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