Bruce or CQR

[MicHughV]

On really windy days, I was surprised to see that the nylon anchor line was actually wearing out the rubber roller on the end of the anchor roller. It was leaving an indentation that looked exactly like the outside of the nylon line. I have to assume some of the nylon anchor line was also abrading, but could not say by just looking at it. I finally made some slit hose sleeves that I could fit over the anchor line where it crossed over the roller to provide protection.
Helps me to sleep better.

[rslifkin]

Originally Posted by newhaul

Never had to use a kedge anchor or a stern anchor? How about a bohemian anchor set with stern as well

I generally avoid situations where I'd need to set more than 1 anchor. I do have a Fortress prepped for hand deployment, however. That weighs a fraction of what my primary does and has far less chain, so it's not as big a deal to use by hand.

Originally Posted by newhaul

The catalina is more like 21k or 22 at most .
We use a 45 pound CQR on a bestway 50 here all the time on a 5:1 scope and have no issues. If necessary nwe can go upto depending on water depth up to 10:1 as we carry 300 ft of chain .

Dry weight is spec-ed at 21,600. That probably is with no optional stuff, so I figure 22k is more realistic. Add a full load of fuel, water (in a bigger than original tank for this upcoming season), partial holding tank, equipment that's been added over time, dinghy on the back, etc. and we come in around 27k lbs. For a planing hull powerboat, it's definitely at the heavier end of the spectrum (relative to size).

In general, I'm in Dockhead's school of thought on this. When I drop the anchor and tell the boat to "stay", I mean "stay, right now, and don't leave me questioning anything". Generally the difference between "good enough" and "sufficient for any situation I can imagine being in" is really not all that much in terms of weight, etc. for ground tackle. 30 lbs on a 27,000 lb boat is not much, and I can probably find 30 lbs of something far less important to remove if I'm really worried about it.

Originally Posted by MicHughV

On really windy days, I was surprised to see that the nylon anchor line was actually wearing out the rubber roller on the end of the anchor roller. It was leaving an indentation that looked exactly like the outside of the nylon line. I have to assume some of the nylon anchor line was also abrading, but could not say by just looking at it. I finally made some slit hose sleeves that I could fit over the anchor line where it crossed over the roller to provide protection.
Helps me to sleep better.

When I've got the rope portion of my rode deployed I always put a long velcro attachment chafe sleeve over the nylon line where it goes over the roller. If I'm on chain with a snubber and I've chosen to run the snubber over the roller with the slack chain, the snubber gets a chafe sleeve. So far, I've seen an occasional bit of wear on the sleeve, but never anything on the line.

[MicHughV]

I've seen those velcro attachments, but at the time, didn't have one, so resorted to my homemade device, but I think I'll put one on my " next purchase" list

[RaymondR]

Or you can use a piece of large wash down hose and push a piece of dowel through it and cut it in a helical pattern like the stuff they make to bundle electrical cables by winding it on. A few half hitches around the ends with a couple of pieces of cord will hold it in place.

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by RaymondR

Or you can use a piece of large wash down hose and push a piece of dowel through it and cut it in a helical pattern like the stuff they make to bundle electrical cables by winding it on. A few half hitches around the ends with a couple of pieces of cord will hold it in place.

A few feet of old used fire hose will last a lifetime as chafe gear a couple of zip ties and your golden .

[malbert73]

Originally Posted by thomm225

Well now you tell me.

Anchored in video below with CQR

Sure! Works for you and I think you anchor in the same area all the time- lower Chesapeake bay which in my experience has a firmer muddy sand or just sand. Where a CQR works fine (most of the time). But where you sail there (I think) is not as much soupy mud where CQRs really struggle, or reversing current, or other conditions where you may experience failures like the rest of us. And, you’re sticking local on the bay (where running aground is an inconvenience, not dangerous)- so no reefs, rocks, sketchy inlets where someday you need the ability to dump out your anchor and chain in an emergency and expect it to bite without “soaking” or other careful technique.

choosing an anchor for broader conditions it’s wise not to stick to dogma (“I’ve always used this anchor and it works”) or tradition (“sailors or yore used this”) and instead rely on larger sample size and empiric data. Many of us have ditched CQRs not because we like to spend money but because the anchor let us down- randomly, seldom- but that’s not fun. I’ve never heard of anyone buying a Mantus, spade, excel, etc and gone back to a CQR (or even kept a CQR on the boat)

Here’s some data from sv Panopes excellent series. No offense but his videos show a lot more than yours about how anchors actually work underwater and in setting/resetting. And his data explains why your CQR works fine where you anchor, and how it may struggle in other areas like Northern Bay with thin mud.

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by malbert73

Sure! Works for you and I think you anchor in the same area all the time- lower Chesapeake bay which in my experience has a firmer muddy sand or just sand. Where a CQR works fine (most of the time). But where you sail there (I think) is not as much soupy mud where CQRs really struggle, or reversing current, or other conditions where you may experience failures like the rest of us. And, you’re sticking local on the bay (where running aground is an inconvenience, not dangerous)- so no reefs, rocks, sketchy inlets where someday you need the ability to dump out your anchor and chain in an emergency and expect it to bite without “soaking” or other careful technique.

choosing an anchor for broader conditions it’s wise not to stick to dogma (“I’ve always used this anchor and it works”) or tradition (“sailors or yore used this”) and instead rely on larger sample size and empiric data. Many of us have ditched CQRs not because we like to spend money but because the anchor let us down- randomly, seldom- but that’s not fun. I’ve never heard of anyone buying a Mantus, spade, excel, etc and gone back to a CQR (or even kept a CQR on the boat)

Here’s some data from sv Panopes excellent series. No offense but his videos show a lot more than yours about how anchors actually work underwater and in setting/resetting. And his data explains why your CQR works fine where you anchor, and how it may struggle in other areas like Northern Bay with thin mud.

Attachment 252503Attachment 252504

In that video of the 45 pounders he admits the CQR was not a genuine CQR
He also says and testing shows a genuine anchor always preforms better than a knockoff .
( not unique to the CQR's but all of them )

And yet in the range of anchors many use on our 26 to 32 ft boats . Remember when a 30 was considered a rich man's sailboat.
https://youtu.be/frqzLTRhjTU

[mrcarson]

Most are copies of copies of copies.
Old school.
I had a 32 ft 8+ ton steel yacht for a lot of yrs.
Primary pick (Port side) was a 35lb CQR. Swivel. 40ft 10mm chain. swivel. 100mm 8mm short link Galv.
Stbd side. 35lb BRUCE. NOT copy. Swivel. 25mtr 6mm galv. 150mtr 1 1/4in NYLON rode.
CQR was main LONG set, pick. chain to hold it down..
Bruce is a SHORT rode set pick..We used them on rigs and deep drilling primarily.
With long length of Nylon for any thing untoward turning up.
On side rail I had roped on an 80lb Admiralty pick. (O/Sized tips welded on for grip)
with swivel and quick release snap. Under forehatch was fed a 40ft length of 10mm with swivel. (To drop over first.) Snap clip to head of CQR and main chain then feed out CQR and set both for REAl heavy weather. 50 odd yrs. incl 2 x Qland Cyclones. never moved.
Also a 30lb Danforth on stern rail with 120m on Nylon rode as a emergency brake.
(I've used it coupla times in river and swing bridge traffic.) Saved my mast and rig several times.
Stopped sailing 10+ yrs ago. Lost my Depth of field in vision. Bummer.
I'm 80. Mum lost her vision at 84 yrs. Hmmmm. Not good hey.
Here's hoping.

[mrcarson]

Originally Posted by mrcarson

Most are copies of copies of copies.
Old school.
I had a 32 ft 8+ ton steel yacht for a lot of yrs.
Primary pick (Port side) was a 35lb CQR. Swivel. 40ft 10mm chain. swivel. 100mm 8mm short link Galv.
Stbd side. 35lb BRUCE. NOT copy. Swivel. 25mtr 6mm galv. 150mtr 1 1/4in NYLON rode.
CQR was main LONG set, pick. chain to hold it down..
Bruce is a SHORT rode set pick..We used them on rigs and deep drilling primarily.
With long length of Nylon for any thing untoward turning up.
On side rail I had roped on an 80lb Admiralty pick. (O/Sized tips welded on for grip)
with swivel and quick release snap. Under forehatch was fed a 40ft length of 10mm with swivel. (To drop over first.) Snap clip to head of CQR and main chain then feed out CQR and set both for REAl heavy weather. 50 odd yrs. incl 2 x Qland Cyclones. never moved.
Also a 30lb Danforth on stern rail with 120m on Nylon rode as a emergency brake.
(I've used it coupla times in river and swing bridge traffic.) Saved my mast and rig several times.
Stopped sailing 10+ yrs ago. Lost my Depth of field in vision. Bummer.
I'm 80. Mum lost her vision at 84 yrs. Hmmmm. Not good hey.
Here's hoping.

OH. And always Hang off a snubber. NOT main Chain. IT'LL STOP YOU SLEEPING.
Mine were 2x (1 backup). 1.1/4in to1 1/2 in. Nylon pref for stretch, With long spliced loop at one end. and a CLAW on t'other to suit chain link.
Set pick/s. Clip Claw onto chain link, loop end of nylon looped on capstan,Whatever.
let out chain to tension snubber. then a mtr or soo slackchain.
If snubber lets go. Chain will soon wake you. BUT. If pick drags. You will get NO warning from chain in stemhead. Radar proximity alarm there for that. I used a Furuno 16nm Digital radar on several yachts. Found it very precice and reliable.

[rgleason]

We have used a genuine 41 yr old 22lb Bruce since purchasing 31 years ago.
The anchor was regalvanized for free 3 years ago. We just use a lot of scope and have only dragged when dropping in weed line.

Should we even consider a new modern anchor?

[rslifkin]

Originally Posted by rgleason

We have used a genuine 41 yr old 22lb Bruce since purchasing 31 years ago.
The anchor was regalvanized for free 3 years ago. We just use a lot of scope and have only dragged when dropping in weed line.

Should we even consider a new modern anchor?

You don't necessarily need to. But if you wanted some extra performance to allow use in weedy bottoms and to allow shorter scope for fitting into tighter anchorages, there's definitely performance to be gained compared to what you have now.

[wingssail]

Originally Posted by rgleason

We have used a genuine 41 yr old 22lb Bruce since purchasing 31 years ago.
The anchor was regalvanized for free 3 years ago. We just use a lot of scope and have only dragged when dropping in weed line.

Should we even consider a new modern anchor?

Yes, you must have a new anchor. Everybody has one of the new anchors, no FOMO!

And besides! Your anchor is not heavy enough! You need an anchor at least twice as heavy as your age.

It is proven, if you don't have at least 100lbs, (120 is better) you will be un able to sleep at night.

It also affects many other healthy well being aspects, sex life too.

Never mind about sailing, never mind about balance. Never mind about the capability of your windlass, get the biggest anchor you marina's portable crane can deliver to your bow, And BIG chain, too.

And if your bow is down, put a huge arch on the back and hang a dingy there, to balance. While you are at it, line your decks with jerry jugs, put a hard dodger on, and install a captain's chair directly behind the helm station so you can sit there motoring every where looking at your chart plotter.

This is cruiser's forum!

[team karst]

The best posts come right after happy hour. [emoji106]

[Stu Jackson]

Originally Posted by team karst

The best posts come right after happy hour. [emoji106]

and thomm25 always proves that the ONLY reliable anchor report comes with the same old same old video

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by Stu Jackson

and thomm25 always proves that the ONLY reliable anchor report comes with the same old same old video

reliable anchor report comes with the same old same old video of a beach cat race along with a sermon on his computer prowess.